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K181 Kohler, No Spark-- Help Please

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#31 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 06:08 PM

That's awesome!!! Glad we were able to help you through it! :dancingbanana: :dancingbanana:



#32 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 07:28 PM

Glad to hear you it going. Good luck!!

#33 bear15 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2013 - 09:29 AM

Okay, we decided to purchase a key switch and avoid the "push button" start and are now uncertain of how it should be wired-in based on figure 16 wire diagram. Our switch (part # 25-099-29-s) has the following prongs and we are uncertain of what the letters stand for and how we might wire it into our system. Any help would be appreciated. Ed - S (solenoid?) - M ( ??) - B (battery?) - L (lights?) - G (ground, brass colored?) - blank ?? If the switch is connected to LARGE wires, 1 from the Battery and the other going to the starter there is no solenoid as the switch is activating the starter. The other switch is for your Ignition & charging system. You turn it off and it disconnects (isolates) the battery's 12V+ from the Coil's + terminal and the regulator's 12V+ output. (If you don't turn those off you will drain & kill the battery) The Negative wire from the coil's other terminal is connected to the point's and the Condensor. DO NOT GROUND this wire or no spark will ever happen. The points are the thing that grounds the coil and creates an electromagnetic field on the primary winding there. When the points open the circuit is opened (hence- breaker points?) and the charge transfers / excites the coil's secondary winding and the spark is created and life is great! Hope this helps..

#34 DougT OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2013 - 10:52 AM

You have the wrong switch for your application. The M terminal is for a magneto engine. That wire is grounded when the key is off to kill the mag. The switch you need will have an I for ignnition and wil supply 12v to the coil on that terminal. You will need to wire a starter solenoid into the circuit also. Big wire from battery to sol post and also a small wire through a 30 amp fuse to B on the switch... Big wire from sol post to starter. Small wire from switch to small post on solenoid. Sol will ground through its body.



#35 bear15 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2013 - 12:43 PM

Oh no... I called kohler and gave them my spec no. (k181-30452) and they told me I need to buy a switch with this part # (part # 25-099-29-s)and I found one on ebay that we purchased. Okay.. 2 questions. -Is there anyway that I can use this switch? -Does anyone have a nos (good condition) that we can buy? Any suggestions are very much appreciated. Ed You have the wrong switch for your application. The M terminal is for a magneto engine. That wire is grounded when the key is off to kill the mag. The switch you need will have an I for ignnition and wil supply 12v to the coil on that terminal. You will need to wire a starter solenoid into the circuit also. Big wire from battery to sol post and also a small wire through a 30 amp fuse to B on the switch... Big wire from sol post to starter. Small wire from switch to small post on solenoid. Sol will ground through its body.

#36 bear15 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2013 - 12:44 PM

Oh no... I called kohler and gave them my spec no. (k181-30452) and they told me I need to buy a switch with this part # (part # 25-099-29-s)and I found one on ebay that we purchased. Okay.. 2 questions. -Is there anyway that I can use this switch? -Does anyone have a nos (good condition) that we can buy? Any suggestions are very much appreciated. Ed

#37 DougT OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2013 - 02:48 PM

Maybe your engine was originally magneto and someone changed it to battery?? If the terminal for the lights or the blank one have 12v on them in start and run both and then shows no voltage off, you could use one of them for the ignition wire to the coil. You still need to wire in a solenoid for the starter. The switch can't handle the amperage of the starter.



#38 bear15 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2013 - 04:13 PM

Any suggestions where I can buy a good switch with the correct part # that will work with it? Any help appreciated. Ed

#39 bear15 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2013 - 09:50 PM

Our switch (part # 25-099-29-s) has the following prongs and we are uncertain of what the letters stand for and how we might wire it into our system. Any help would be appreciated. Ed - S (solenoid?) - M ( ??) - B (battery?) - L (lights?) - G (ground, brass colored?) - blank ??

#40 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 31, 2013 - 07:29 AM

Try this for the letter ID!



#41 bear15 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 31, 2013 - 04:21 PM

Thank you very much for this information. I am still hoping to find the correct switch-- any help appreciated. Ed Folks have asked what the letters on the back of their ignition switch stand for. I found this and thought I would add it in here for those looking for this info: M = Magneto S = Starter Solenoid L = Lights A = Accessory B = Battery G = Ground I = Ignition R = Regulator/Rectifier

#42 DougT OFFLINE  

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Posted January 31, 2013 - 04:29 PM

Bear, Do you have a Tractor Supply, Lowes, Ace Hardware, good lawn and garden dealer, or something similar around your area? I usually just go look for the style I need by the markings on the back. Since you don't have a hardshell plug to deal with it shouldn't be a problem. A lot of them are universal anyway.



#43 bear15 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 31, 2013 - 05:14 PM

Yes, I do have an Ace in the area. So the “style” I need will have an I for ignition and will supply 12v to the coil on that terminal. The letters I will need are (I, S, L, B, R). Does this seem correct?? Do I need the G?

#44 DougT OFFLINE  

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Posted January 31, 2013 - 06:02 PM

Yes, I do have an Ace in the area. So the “style” I need will have an I for ignition and will supply 12v to the coil on that terminal. The letters I will need are (I, S, L, B, R). Does this seem correct?? Do I need the G?

I don't think the one with the I has a G if I remember right. There isn't anything that needs grounded on that style switch. For a solenoid I like the ones for the old Fords with the metal mounting tabs. They seem to be heavier than the garden tractor ones they sell today. Something out of the 70s should do it.



#45 bear15 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 01, 2013 - 12:26 PM

Some good news. After checking with a few stores, we finally found a 3 way switch (off/on/start) at NAPA (part # 7-01854) that has 5 prongs of (S, A, B, I, R). Do you think it will work if we connect S to STARTER, B to 12 V BATTERY, I to POSTIVE SIDE OF COIL, R to REGULATOR/RECTIFIER???? ALSO, can I connect the lights to A (although not desired, where lights are always on)????





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