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(experiment) With Replaceing 1157 Lamps With 55w Halogen Bulb


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#31 HydroHarold OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 10:00 PM

Whoa...  (visualizing here)  An LED streetlight mounted on a pole off the hitch mounted above the driver's head (to reduce glare)!  360º lighting!  No backup lights needed, no warning lights...!  That'd sure fix my night blindness!:D


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#32 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 10:15 PM

Whoa...  (visualizing here)  An LED streetlight mounted on a pole off the hitch mounted above the driver's head (to reduce glare)!  360º lighting!  No backup lights needed, no warning lights...!  That'd sure fix my night blindness! :D

 

For some reasion that deep sea fish that has the luminisant thing that dangles in front came to mind when I read your comment.....  but not a bad idea :thumbs: Lets see how the bumper mount works. Free is always good!


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#33 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 10:45 PM

Wasn't able to snag a picture off this site, but this is what the array came from. http://wxanbang.en.a...Road_Light.html



#34 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2013 - 06:34 AM

I think you have something there, Larry. Good luck with it!



#35 wvbuzzmaster ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2013 - 11:59 AM

Nice. I would just cut the openning of the headlights wide for a single.

#36 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2013 - 09:45 PM

No, no cutting..... And the whole purpose was no modifations, but I may need to deviate some from that. I Picked up one of these today, a bulb type street lamp replacement bulb that was droped while installing. It was broke pretty good, but the small (9) led strips looked promising. I visualized placeing these behind the orginal lenzes. There are eight of these strips in the lamp. The strips are heavily heat sinked with a cooling fan (who said led's run cool) I fooled around with one and couldn't get it to light, so I tried a second, nada, on the 3rd I reconfigured my bench power supply to output 28VDC, waala. But kinda usless as they need 24 volts to operate, and yes the strip started to get warm so heat sinks are a must. The Heat sink is not a big issue, but the 24V is. I remember some voltage doubbler circuits from my electronic days, I may tinker some to see if I can get 24V from 12.

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#37 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2013 - 11:18 PM

I think I can use my new sawsall to cut the individual heat sinks out of the housing. the tricky part will be finding a voltage doubler circuit to get the 24V needed from the Craftaman - 12V circuit. These strips may fit behind the lenzes, I haven't checked that yet.

 

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#38 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2013 - 04:59 AM

Larry , if you remember, I did all this a few years ago when I had this exact same issue on my LGT When it had the Briggs in it. I even built a bridged rectifier for the lighting to boost voltage and amperage with capacitors and all....... and this is what I have found.. LEDs are Made to be seen not to see , except for the focused ones in flashlights, and they still don't compair to a crypton bulb like I have in the light on my handgun( blindingly bright, and holds a good beam out to 75 yards),
Best thing is get more juice from the engine!! Better magnets and stator would be my thought.
I was working with an electrical engineer on this too, and we had a blast trying to get more from less and it all boiled down to " ya can't get something from nothing" this is why anything multiplied by "0" (2x0=0) equals zero. LOL
You might ask " so what did you do to fix the problem?" It wasn't easy.... I swamped the Briggs for a 3 cylinder diesel !! Now those cheapy 1056 bulbs work great LOL.

Edited by skyrydr2, January 17, 2013 - 05:01 AM.

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#39 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2013 - 01:10 PM

Thanks Sky, I think I remember that. I think I'll continue down this path and see what happens. These LED's are designed for Street Lamps, so there may be a difference there in the light output. I do know they light up the shop well. As for the design, I am thinking of leaving the orginal 1156's in and working on adding the Leds either to the new bumper, or (if the small strips will fit) behind the lenzs with the 1156's. As for the 24V needed, that will be easy, I'll just tap the single stator wire prior to the dual diode, and like you said, add a bridge rectifier. this will give me the 24VDC easily. This shouldn't affect the overall current by much. Looks to be a nice weekend here, and I have Monday off, so I should be able to test a couple theories. 



#40 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2013 - 10:18 PM

Well, I experimented with the small 28V strips, it looks like I have some more work to do on this, still at $0.00 Investment on the leds. Promising so far, but I think they need better regulation. I'll dig through my parts box and see what I can come up with.

 

Nothing ventured, nothing gained But from this test I tend to agree leds are to be seen, and not good to see with. Why do they use them in street lamps? $$$ and Green are the only answers I have.

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#41 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2013 - 10:27 AM

Not sure if I should start a different thread as this one has morfed from 1156's to expermenting with leds, I'll take suggestions from the Mods on that. I examined the failed led, and I don't think it was blown from the electrical current. It looks like it may have been a previously damaged resistor that finnaly cracked with vibration. Still planning to add some filtering, and getting ready to test fit these behind the lenzes. If this works, I hope to be posting back in the Craftsman Winter refresh topic soon.
 

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#42 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2013 - 12:57 PM

Starting to look very promising, the test fit will be easy, a couple small holes drilled through the heat sink, and through the bottom of the reflector and they should mount up fine. The thought here is to augment the 1156's.
I added a 360 mfd cap, getting 28V at just above idle. I placed the leds in series and went to full rpm, 48vdc and barely lit the leds. So the route I need to go is to try and find a 28v regulator (junk box version), which I think I have a LM-317 laying around here somewhere.

 

I'll move foreward and go ahead and install the leds in the head light housing. I am positive I can get the voltage regulated to a smooth 28V.

 

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#43 HydroHarold OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2013 - 05:56 PM

"Why do they use LED's for street lamps?" 

 

A big savings in electricity over any other kind of lamp, they only use a tiny fraction of the power.  However, flying into major cities at night many times, I got the idea that if they just turned off every other light they would save more than any retrofit of any other light technology.  Actually, today cars have very good headlights and as far as neighborhood crime goes... if there's muggers out there on any particular street even a carbon arc lighting system isn't going to stop them.  (This is where I believe the light from a muzzle flash is the best illumination!)



#44 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2013 - 06:56 PM

So, mini machine guns may be a good option? Just so happens I was watching some youtubes on mini home made rail guns. I digress... Sorry... back to the restore. Red is looking good, I got the bottom of the tins painted, ran out of sun warming. Tomorrow I'll move the table out to where it isn't as shadey and hope to get the rest painted. Still working on a 28V reg setup.



#45 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2013 - 07:06 PM

Ok, this may be good. For those that have the single wire stator, those provide around 28 VAC depending on engine RPM.

With the stock Dual Diode, you get + 12.5 to 15.5 DC on the positive side (Depending on load "PTO")

On the negitive side you get - 12.5 to -15.5 depending on the light load.

With a bridge rectifier you get + 28 dc to + 48 DC depending on RPM.

 

After searching it looks like I will need a 28 vdc shunt type regulator using a few resistors and a 28 v zener diode.






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