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(experiment) With Replaceing 1157 Lamps With 55w Halogen Bulb


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#16 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2013 - 08:38 PM

I have done a lot of automotive wiring. You should run your lights off the battery and leave the charging system just for what it was designed for. It gives you more of a consistent power flow. If you want them to only work with the ignition on then wire a relay in the system activated by the ignition switch. Thanks. Eric Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2

Unfortunally these Craftsmans use a single wire stator with a dual diode setup. +12 to the battery for charging / -12 dor the lights. At least I have DC power for them.

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#17 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2013 - 08:39 PM

The only problem I would see with a single LED is the angle of light output. LED's are very narrow band light sources meaning they need angled reflectors to spread the light output. When the light is spread, it loses some intensity. 5w is pretty hot for a single LED which may shorten the life of it. I have messed with these a bit with saltwater tanks and the Cree name is one of the top producers. Although they are pricey. I would look for a cheaper alternative to see how they would look before spending that much money on them. I know some auto parts stores sell LED's in the 1156 base as an upgrade for taillights. Those have multiple lights in them and are much cheaper. As for your Craftsman, I would still change over to battery power for LED's. They will not discharge more than the stator can charge. It would not be too hard to change the source of power in your wiring. Or you could also run a new set of wiring to the lights. One single that splits to the lights then grounds from the lights to the chassis. Eric Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2

Edited by dropped82, January 14, 2013 - 08:43 PM.

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#18 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2013 - 08:43 PM

Here's one with an 1156 base listed as 3 watts, 330 lumens, spot light type.

 

http://www.goldengad...yonet-base.html

 

superspotmain.jpg



#19 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2013 - 08:44 PM

Larry, any Halogen is going to burn hotter and "whiter" than an equivalent standard incandescent.  I was more trying to give you a feel for how much "overkill" you had going on than anything.  Have you tried any of the cheap (nearly free) LED flashlights that are available?  Some careful searching could let you buy a 1 to 3 watt flashlight without paying too much and you could try using it at night before heading down that road.  I'm glad 8tyman8 jumped in on this thread as I recalled that he had gone this route, but couldn't find his thread using "search".


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#20 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2013 - 08:53 PM

The only problem I would see with a single LED is the angle of light output. LED's are very narrow band light sources meaning they need angled reflectors to spread the light output. When the light is spread, it loses some intensity. 5w is pretty hot for a single LED which may shorten the life of it. I have messed with these a bit with saltwater tanks and the Cree name is one of the top producers. Although they are pricey. I would look for a cheaper alternative to see how they would look before spending that much money on them. I know some auto parts stores sell LED's in the 1156 base as an upgrade for taillights. Those have multiple lights in them and are much cheaper. As for your Craftsman, I would still change over to battery power for LED's. They will not discharge more than the stator can charge. It would not be too hard to change the source of power in your wiring. Or you could also run a new set of wiring to the lights. One single that splits to the lights then grounds from the lights to the chassis. Eric Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2

 

The "normal" running at WOT with the electric PTO on I barely get enough to keep the battery up. After 3-1/2 hours of straight mowing I some times have to trickle charge the battery. I have measured, and do get around one amp of charge with the pto on, just enough to keep the amp guage centered. I toyed with adding a bridge rectifer but with those, 28 VAC in = 28 VDC out. I would prefer to use the 4.5 amps available at the light circuit. (almost sounds like an Apollo 13 issue). 



#21 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2013 - 09:03 PM

This may work and is in the right price range. http://www.lightbulb...alJCG4/Q20G412V

Ohms law tells me 13.5 Volts @ 20 Watts = a 1.48 Amp draw, X2 and I am at just under 3 amps, Question is can the plastic lenz take the heat. They also have 10 W versions, If I order, I'll probally get both.


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#22 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2013 - 09:11 PM

I would opt more for the 10w. The real question is how much spacing will you have from the bulb to the plastic? Those 1156 surprisingly get pretty darn hot. Auto parts stores also carry 1156 bulbs in a hyper (xenon) white that you may try. They put out a more intense light than standard bulbs. I think they are more of a different color temperature as opposed to running a higher wattage. May also be something to look into. Eric Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2
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#23 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2013 - 09:17 PM

Ok, thanks guys. a pair of 1156 bulbs cost $1.59 here, The Q20G412V are $1.99 each (I will check for local availability). The main thing I am trying to accomplish is get a (some what) brighter output than the incandesents give without melting my lenzes, for a more comfortable mow at night, and without breaking the bank. As said it takes over 3 hours to do all the riding, and I often run into dark in the summer evening.

Not finished searching, but If I can find a 10-15W halogon with an 1156 base, I think I would try those and report the findings.
 



#24 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2013 - 09:43 PM

OMG :wallbanging:  You can buy the same kit at Walmart for $19.99. http://www.mowersdir...4100/p6883.html

 

Yea I am reaching, but I think I am getting somewhere, just don't know where yet.



#25 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 05:06 PM

Don't know electrics too well, but recall a Hot Rod parts seller used to have extra bright tail light bulbs for use in those tiny 39 Ford tail lenses for rods. Not sure he sold single bases or not?  Can't recall name of guy, but seems like it was a harness maker for Rods. Maybe Ron FRancis ?   Same size base, but much brighter light to show up better in small tailights.



#26 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 07:41 PM

:rocker2:  :rocker2:  :rocker2:  :D  :smilewink:  :thumbs:  :thumbs:  :thumbs:  Woo Hoo !!!!!! Jackpot !!!!!!!!!



#27 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 07:46 PM

:rocker2:  :rocker2:  :rocker2:  :D  :smilewink:  :thumbs:  :thumbs:  :thumbs:  Woo Hoo !!!!!! Jackpot !!!!!!!!!

Yeah!!!   Wooohoooo!!   Yippeeee!  Happy-Happy Joy-Joy!

 

Wait........what are we celebrating??



#28 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 08:11 PM

I went over to the City Traffic department today and was talking with them about LED lights. They are switching some of the street lights over to LED. While looking over one of the "HUGE" led arrays in one of those lights, I noticed that the power supply was rated at 480V in...... and you guesed it 12 VDC out. He then showed me a box of loose arrays and said that they came from knock-downs (I knew drunk drivers were good for something) and he gave me one array. He said that he didn't know if it was good or not. I didn't care, and couldn't wait to get home. This is a 10 X 3 array and it pulls exactly 1/4 amp on my bench power supply. Boy are my wheels turning now. Oh, a complete street lamp has 4 of these arrays. I'm thinking of one LARGE LED Fog light mounted to the center of ........... MY SHINNEY NEW BUMPER !!!!!!!!

I LOVE it when a plan comes together!

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  • LED 1.JPG
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  • Bumper.JPG
  • Bright.JPG
  • Shop Lit.JPG

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#29 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 09:09 PM

Now that is truly excellent news!


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#30 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 09:46 PM

Thanks, this thing is really brite, and measures 12" long and 3" wide. It fits nicely in the top loop of the bumper. I am thinking a simple case to mount this in that would attach to the bumper. Can't tell how the three led arrays are attached. I may ask to see if they have a damaged one I can disect. This one will stay whole and I'll find a way to mount it and hopefully make it look good.

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  • Fit.JPG
  • Close 2.JPG
  • Inside.JPG
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