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(experiment) With Replaceing 1157 Lamps With 55w Halogen Bulb


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#1 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2013 - 05:15 PM

Got bored and decided to do an experiment with increasing the head light brightness on my Craftsman known as RED. I wanted to try something that allowed the use of the existing 1157 lamp sockets and wireing.

First, Red has the single wire 9 amp alternator with the dual diode regulator <-- (not an accurate term) but ya’ll know what I mean. With this setup + 13.5 volts @ 4.5 amps DC are provided to charge the battery, and – 13.5 volts @ 4.5 amps DC are available for the 1157 lamps.

My Test setup provides a minimum of 3.5 Amps, and 13.4 VDC.

The Pictures tell the story, but here are the steps.

  1. Wrap a 1157 in a paper tower and wack it.
  2. Clean the remaining glass fragments off
  3. Beef up the glass support with JB
  4. Get a bulb holder with a flat bottom to help with the JB, you will need this later.
  5. Purchase a H3 12V 55W Halogen bulb (I only bought 1, as this is an experiment)
  6. Carefully remove the metal housing (Small snips and a dremal cut off worked well).
  7. Use a large magnifier (More for protection if the bulb bursts, but helps to see when cutting with the snips)
  8. On the 1157, pre-curl the leads, and insert the Halogen bulb leads, then crimp the curls against the Halogen bulb leads with a needle nose.
  9. Use a large solder gun (100W or more) to solder the leads (A 25W won’t work here)
  10. Install the lamp on the test bench, Here are the Specifications.
  11. Voltage dropped to 10.3 VDC
  12. Current maxed out at 3.5 Amps
  13. Meat Thermometer registered 150 Degrees in open air above the bulb

This was only an experiment and If I tried even using one 55W Halogen bulb on Red I expect this would happen.

  1. Alternator stator would probably fail.
  2. Diode regulator should be OK as I used 10A diodes in mine
  3. Head lamp lenses would probably melt.

Cost for this experiment was less than $10.00 (Would have been less if I hadn’t wacked both 1157’s.

The search is on for an inexpensive Hi Intensity LED, so I can try it on the other 1157 base.

 

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#2 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2013 - 05:20 PM

Rest of the pictures.

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#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2013 - 05:55 PM

So, I take it you have just engineered the first 55W halogen with an 1157 base?



#4 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2013 - 06:14 PM

You get an "A" for the effort :thumbs:  I wonder how much better the LEDs will be ? Are you sure those are 1157 bases ?  I believe the single base are 1156   , Al


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#5 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2013 - 06:24 PM

oops 1156 Base is correct, and I have not seen anyone else try this any where else. I used the fog lights on BMP and they pull right at 10 amps which means I can't use the PTO. My thought was haveing one 55W bulb on Red that I could quickly swap in in case I ran out of daylight. In theory it should work if I remove the plastic lenz also.



#6 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2013 - 11:13 PM

Have you ever thought of using HID's instead. They are a bit pricier but they pull a lot less power and they last a lot longer. I use them in my truck for the extra light. Although they require a separate ballast (included in the kit). They are easy to work with and you may be able to use the 1156 base for the bulb itself. I've noticed the local farmers around here now have them on their tractors. HID's will provide a ton more light with less power and heat.

Eric

Edited by dropped82, January 13, 2013 - 11:15 PM.


#7 8tyman8 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2013 - 11:56 PM

I went Led at 27 watts a Bulb i could of went 23or25?i found them on ebay ... Led flood lights the set was $70-80 with free (and Slow shipping)but they arrived i got the lights from down light direct the Quality is great and they are Bright they fit nicely (with some trimming)into the hood on my bolens H14 i think Led is the way of the future with 50'000 hours to a bulb

Cheers

Ty

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#8 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2013 - 12:06 AM

What do those measure in diameter? I have been looking for replacements for my JD square fenders. Thanks. Eric Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2

#9 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2013 - 07:24 PM

8tyman8, I don't think I could adapt those behind the Craftsman lenses. These look promising http://www.ebay.com/...W-/140674393350 but without knowing if they would out perform the standard 1156 bulb I think I would have a hard time justyfing the $80 on cost. Still searching the Electronic sites to see if I can find a low cost LED that I can adapt.



#10 8tyman8 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2013 - 07:42 PM

What do those measure in diameter? I have been looking for replacements for my JD square fenders. Thanks. Eric Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2

I think they measure 4 1/2 across as i had to trim out the hole from the Ge bulb (4" dia) but the way i looks at it the old hood was  junk and i would never go back .... just food for thought 



#11 8tyman8 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2013 - 07:47 PM

8tyman8, I don't think I could adapt those behind the Craftsman lenses. These look promising http://www.ebay.com/...W-/140674393350 but without knowing if they would out perform the standard 1156 bulb I think I would have a hard time justyfing the $80 on cost. Still searching the Electronic sites to see if I can find a low cost LED that I can adapt.

i got some thing similar but it was a T10 base and i will tell you they are Bright they were about a buck a bulb maybe build custom lights with some board and the leds unsolder them from the T10 lights and solder them on your board  them por epoxy over



#12 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2013 - 08:09 PM

Ok, a search of Google shows that 1156 bulbs run around 27 watts incandescent.  I think the Halogen equivalence factor is around 2 to one, so a 15 watt halogen should have the lumens of a 27 watt incandesent.  Online source claims about a 10 to 1 ratio, so a 27 watt incandesent should be about a 3 watt LED.  My experience is that the light color is different, I think the LEDs are "flatter" and more difficult to see at exact replacement ratios.


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#13 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2013 - 08:12 PM

Are you guys running the LED's off the battery, or through the stator / diode setup? A few of the sites state that I will need a capasitor to smooth the ripple off the D/C on my lighting circuit "HID's require steady DC current between 10 and 14.5 volts to operate. You will need a rectifier (an electronic device that converts AC current to DC current, and either a 12v battery of some variety or a capacitor (to supply steady current)." This isn't a big issue for me.

I did measure the ripple using an actual Craftsman dual diode and it will need a 100 - 250 mfd to smooth it.

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#14 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2013 - 08:31 PM

I have done a lot of automotive wiring. You should run your lights off the battery and leave the charging system just for what it was designed for. It gives you more of a consistent power flow. If you want them to only work with the ignition on then wire a relay in the system activated by the ignition switch. Thanks. Eric Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2
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#15 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2013 - 08:33 PM

Ok, a search of Google shows that 1156 bulbs run around 27 watts incandescent.  I think the Halogen equivalence factor is around 2 to one, so a 15 watt halogen should have the lumens of a 27 watt incandesent.  Online source claims about a 10 to 1 ratio, so a 27 watt incandesent should be about a 3 watt LED.  My experience is that the light color is different, I think the LEDs are "flatter" and more difficult to see at exact replacement ratios.

 

Thanks Howard, the ones I found LED with an 1156 base are listed around 2 watts. hence my concern about dropping big $$$ with out knowing how well they would compair against the standard bulbs. Now I need to search for 20-25 W Halogens, as I have been using a 55W one that could work except for the heat it generated, heck even 15W should be better than the 27W incandesent, and probally cheeper to try for continuing this experiment.  






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