Got bored and decided to do an experiment with increasing the head light brightness on my Craftsman known as RED. I wanted to try something that allowed the use of the existing 1157 lamp sockets and wireing.
First, Red has the single wire 9 amp alternator with the dual diode regulator <-- (not an accurate term) but ya’ll know what I mean. With this setup + 13.5 volts @ 4.5 amps DC are provided to charge the battery, and – 13.5 volts @ 4.5 amps DC are available for the 1157 lamps.
My Test setup provides a minimum of 3.5 Amps, and 13.4 VDC.
The Pictures tell the story, but here are the steps.
- Wrap a 1157 in a paper tower and wack it.
- Clean the remaining glass fragments off
- Beef up the glass support with JB
- Get a bulb holder with a flat bottom to help with the JB, you will need this later.
- Purchase a H3 12V 55W Halogen bulb (I only bought 1, as this is an experiment)
- Carefully remove the metal housing (Small snips and a dremal cut off worked well).
- Use a large magnifier (More for protection if the bulb bursts, but helps to see when cutting with the snips)
- On the 1157, pre-curl the leads, and insert the Halogen bulb leads, then crimp the curls against the Halogen bulb leads with a needle nose.
- Use a large solder gun (100W or more) to solder the leads (A 25W won’t work here)
- Install the lamp on the test bench, Here are the Specifications.
- Voltage dropped to 10.3 VDC
- Current maxed out at 3.5 Amps
- Meat Thermometer registered 150 Degrees in open air above the bulb
This was only an experiment and If I tried even using one 55W Halogen bulb on Red I expect this would happen.
- Alternator stator would probably fail.
- Diode regulator should be OK as I used 10A diodes in mine
- Head lamp lenses would probably melt.
Cost for this experiment was less than $10.00 (Would have been less if I hadn’t wacked both 1157’s.
The search is on for an inexpensive Hi Intensity LED, so I can try it on the other 1157 base.