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Ss14 Flywheel, Backfire, Carb


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#1 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2013 - 02:15 PM

My friend has a SS14 and about 2 weeks ago, he started it and there was a loud backfire.  It won't run now but turns over making no unusual noises.  He belongs to anpther forum and it was sugested that the flywheel key may have stripped and thrown it out of time.

You tube vids show prying the flywheel while rapping the end of the crankshaft with a good heavy hammer.  Bang, it pops right off.  He tried this and it didn't work.  I don't know about you, but I would be afraid of damaging something else if I were to hit it to hard.

Next, a three armed gear puller.  Not budging.  So he ordered a hydraulic puller from HF.  I was going to help after a doctor appointment on Wednesday but I was running so late so he did it himself.   He said it took so much pressure that it was scarey.  He was even trying heat.  Suddenly there was an explosion and the flywheel was on the floor next to the back wheel.  The puller and everything in it's path was across the shop.  He was in front of the tractor, reaching around to pump the puller, and he ended up on the floor too.  If I had been there, there is a good chance one of would have been right in front of it.

He has it back together right now anf it still won't run.  He said he cranked it with the choke on and the plug stayed dry.  So I have a couple of questions:

He just called and said he got it to start by opening up the big carb screw 2 or 3 turns, so much that gas ran out the carb, and chocking with his hand.

What is the best way to remove a flywheel?

Could that backfire have blown something into the carb?

 

flywheel01.JPG

flywheel01b.JPG

flywheel02.JPG


Edited by robert_p43, January 11, 2013 - 02:17 PM.


#2 Farmlife OFFLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2013 - 02:21 PM

My guess by what his end result was, is that its a carb issue.  Tell em to clean the carb very well.  Make sure all the holes on the screw are cleaned even the small one everyone forgets about.  Make sure the float isn't stuck which may be why the fuel kept running out.  Also, turn the screw in the bottom of the bowl in all the way, then back it out 1 and a 1/2 turns, get it to start then adjust the screw so it runs smooth.  Start small.....I've never had a fly wheel give me that much trouble, nuthn a bearing puller couldn't do.  That's kinda freaky but I'm glad everyone is ok.


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#3 Guest_rat88_*

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Posted January 11, 2013 - 02:23 PM

has he done a compression check. A bad seat on the intake valve will blow the fuel/air mix out of the carb. you will hear a "weezing" sound while cranking if this is the case


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#4 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2013 - 02:47 PM

I am leaning towards the carb at the moment. Just because those cars can be finicky. Question. did he rebuild that carb recently as it looks rather clean? If so had he run it much after he rebuilt it?

 

If he hasn't had the carb apart. Then have him take it apart and clean it thoroughly! Just tell him to take the venture tube out 1st before pulling the top off the carb! it is under the high speed adjusting screw.

 

But like Rat suggested I would be sure compression is good first. Good luck


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#5 jms180 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2013 - 04:10 PM

I always add a little fuel to carb maybe about teaspoon. if it starts and runs for few seconds and stops the carb needs cleaning. I never use starting fluid its is not good for the cylinder.


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#6 JDBrian ONLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2013 - 04:38 PM

That hydraulic puller seems like it did the job but there are some not so obvious hazards to be aware of when using one.  I wonder if he could tell if the flywheel key was actually sheered or not. I had one sheer off on a 11hp tec OHV snow blower motor and it sheered while I was trying to get it to start with a plugged up carb. If the plug is dry it may be a valve issue as was said above. If no vacuum is generated by the piston then the carb can't pull any gas even if it's in perfect condition. 


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#7 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2013 - 05:35 PM

I agree with above, Compression test, carb cleaning, oh, and set points. If you take a good plastic shopping bag, and hold it around where the carb bolts on, you can see what the air is doing as you turn it BY HAND. Dont do that and hit the starter. Bag is a bugger to get out again.
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#8 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2013 - 07:58 PM

Has he removed the valve cover to make sure valves are opening? I'm thinking intake valve spring or keeper broke.

Check compression.


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#9 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2013 - 10:02 PM

I know that I certainly appreciate all these sugestions and help.  I am sure he does too.  I know he reads here and emailed me the pictures.  Here's hoping he joins up and comes on in to answer these questions.  I do know that he could not tell if the key was sheared or not so started there.  I know he has work tomorrow so I may not hear from him for a day or 2.

By the way, I am getting ideas to check on my own tractor when I get back to working on it. 


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#10 frankD OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 09:14 AM

Greetings. I felt compelled to join after seeing my bud discussing my problem here. This is truely a forum that all seem welcome. I followed all of the advise offered and she lives again. After I got the flywheel off I did not see anything to lead me to believe that the key had sheared. Reinstalled and nothing. So I began to check and test per suggesions. I'd rebuilt the carb about 1.5 yrs ago. I used a stens? kit and wasn't impressed with it, as I ended up using most of the old parts. Nevertheless, I broke it down and did a thorough cleaning. Checked the valve springs and all appeared in good shape and functioning. Compression test checked out ok. Points were dirty. Cleaned and regapped. Replaced plug with a Briggs. Put everything back together and she runs better than ever. However, the carb is leaking like a fool. Ordered a Briggs kit, and will rebuild it properly. If I had to guess, I'd bet it was the points all along and the carb wasn't helping either.

Once again, thanks to all. And thanks for allowing me to join. frank


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#11 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 07:09 PM

Glad it's running well now, Frank.

I now have a bunch of items to check when I get my tractor inside. (still have a mountain of firewood between the tractor and the shed.)  Plus, I now know where I can get hold of a compression tester. :thumbs:



#12 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 07:58 PM

Frank,
:welcome: to GTTalk, glad she's purrring again.

I hope the new kit solves your problem, make sure you order a new float this time if you reused the old one last time. Probably on borrowed time. and while you're in there...




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