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Paint On The Engine Plate


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#16 Humey222 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2013 - 06:45 PM

Well I tried some oven cleaner, Coca-Cola, methel hydrate but not viniger yet. This just ain't looking too good so far. But thats ok i'll learn something new.   Parry



#17 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2013 - 07:11 PM

Parry,

 

Try soaking the tag with WD-40, and let it sit over night. Tomorrow afternoon or evening, try going over it lightly with #0000 steel wool, again lightly! Keep the WD-40 on the plate while doing this, so that you have a lubricant between the steel wool and the tag. I'm not making any promisses, but it might work. Also, most tags have a 1/16" reveal around the perimeter of the tag that wasn't painted or printed. Try scraping some of the paint away from around the perimeter. This will help the WD-40 penetrate underneith the paint, and hopefully separate the paint from the tag. I'm hoping the WD-40 on the tag all night will soften the paint just enough, so that it can be removed with an old toothbrush, instead of the steel wool.

 

When you used the oven cleaner, did the paint bubble at all, and how long did you leave it on? Oven cleaner should not be used on aluminum, but if you apply it to the paint, wait for it to bubble, and then rinse it off real good, you should be ok. Do you have any radiators in your house, or any type of heating surface other than the oven? If so, try heating up the tag a lttle, and then try using the oven cleaner again. If the paint doesn't bubble or even try to separate after ten minutes, then stop using it. The oven cleaner works best when the surface it's sprayed onto is hot or warm. Ten minutes is long enough for you to be able to tell if it'll work or not.

 

Do the WD-40 method first, and if not successful, then do the oven cleaner again. I really hope this works out for you, since this is the last part of your restoration process. Good Luck my Friend, and keep us updated on the status.



#18 Humey222 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2013 - 09:55 PM

Parry,

 

Try soaking the tag with WD-40, and let it sit over night. Tomorrow afternoon or evening, try going over it lightly with #0000 steel wool, again lightly! Keep the WD-40 on the plate while doing this, so that you have a lubricant between the steel wool and the tag. I'm not making any promisses, but it might work. Also, most tags have a 1/16" reveal around the perimeter of the tag that wasn't painted or printed. Try scraping some of the paint away from around the perimeter. This will help the WD-40 penetrate underneith the paint, and hopefully separate the paint from the tag. I'm hoping the WD-40 on the tag all night will soften the paint just enough, so that it can be removed with an old toothbrush, instead of the steel wool.

 

When you used the oven cleaner, did the paint bubble at all, and how long did you leave it on? Oven cleaner should not be used on aluminum, but if you apply it to the paint, wait for it to bubble, and then rinse it off real good, you should be ok. Do you have any radiators in your house, or any type of heating surface other than the oven? If so, try heating up the tag a lttle, and then try using the oven cleaner again. If the paint doesn't bubble or even try to separate after ten minutes, then stop using it. The oven cleaner works best when the surface it's sprayed onto is hot or warm. Ten minutes is long enough for you to be able to tell if it'll work or not.

 

Do the WD-40 method first, and if not successful, then do the oven cleaner again. I really hope this works out for you, since this is the last part of your restoration process. Good Luck my Friend, and keep us updated on the status.

Thanks for the great ideas Troy!! I will try the WD-40 idea. i like the sound of it and i know what you mean by it acting as a lubricate also especially on aluminum. I'm gonna be gone away from home on the road working til Wednesday so i will prbobly get a chance to do when i get home. I will definetly keep you posted. You've been a big help. I'm messing with this and the rear brakes in between the painting and things.  Thanks again and we'll talk soon....Parry

   And no the oven cleaner did not bubble or anything but i sprayed it on a blue shop towel and wiped it on. It didn't do anything.


Edited by Humey222, January 13, 2013 - 09:59 PM.

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#19 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2013 - 09:02 AM

Parry,

If you have to resort back to the oven cleaner, I want you to spray the cleaner directly on the tag, and don't be afraid to spray a lot of it. Give it a couple of minutes to start working, and then rinse it off real good with soapy, luke warm water. Also be sure to heat the tag up a little before using the oven cleaner again. This will make a big difference.


Edited by johndeereelfman, January 15, 2013 - 06:41 PM.

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#20 Humey222 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 06:16 PM

Parry,

If you have to resort back to the oven cleaner, I want you to spray the cleaner directly on the tag, and don't be afraid to spray a lot of it. Give it a couple of minutes to start working, and then was it off real good with soapy, luke warm water. Also be sure to heat the tag up a little before using the oven cleaner again. This will make a big difference.

Ok i'll give it shoot. I may have another option thru a friend of mine. I'll let know soon but this MAY be the perfect replacement!!


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#21 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2013 - 03:35 AM

What a challange you have ahead of you ! I doubt that you can remove the top layers of paint without damaging the ID plates prnted information . From what I've read over the years, one possibility might be to contact your closest museum and ask about what they use to resolve simular situations as you have . I know that there have been cases where paint was removed using very weak solutions working very slowly with a q-tip . Lots and lots of patience required ! 

If you can get an exact copy of an original plate you could produce a decal using you laser printer . I do it for some of the scale model airplanes I build . It will require a clear topcoat to protect it when finished . Second choice is to reproduce an exact copy by taking a complete, undamaged iD plate to your local silkscreen printer and have a copy made . From experience it is quite expensive but the results are outstanding . Here's a picture of a new ID plate I made for my model 72 Cub Cadet that I'm restoring . Good luck with your efforts . The more you put into a project, the more you get out of it .

Mike

Attached Thumbnails

  • old and new Cub 72 I.D. plates 1-17-13 001.JPG

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#22 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2013 - 02:09 PM

There is a guy on ebay that sells reproduction Wisconsin tags. they look real good. Try doing a search over there.


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#23 Humey222 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2013 - 05:21 PM

There is a guy on ebay that sells reproduction Wisconsin tags. they look real good. Try doing a search over there.

Yes there is and a friend of mine had just sent me a link to see them. WOW they look perfect!!! Thats the route that i'm gonna take but i'm still gonna try to remove the paint just practice. Those plates are what i want; as i posted eariler i want this Gibson to be "just right" as i possibly can. Mike had said it "the more you put into a project, the more you get out of it." Thats what i'm trying for. Thanks for the help everyone. It should turn pretty nice. If not, i'll start over!   Parry


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#24 mopargoob OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2014 - 03:32 PM

I have used oven cleaner, and it seems like the old style "hazardous to your health" stuff seems to do the better job.

I have thought a lot of what could destroy / melt the paint and loosen it, and you could try good old fashioned brake fluid.

there is always lots of warnings NOT to get it on the paint, and it might be worth a try.


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