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Help ! Can A Cadet Starter/generator Be Powdercoated ?

cub cadet starter/generator powdercoating

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#1 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2013 - 05:50 PM

Does anyone know if the starter/generator windings have to be removed or will they tolerate the 30 minutes at 400 degrees of baking required to cure the powdercoat ? If they won't, then what is the best way to remove the rusted-in slothead screws going thru each side of the case ? The brush holders are riveted in and are all metal, but the wires between the windings and one of the brush holders is insulated . Any advise would be greatly appreciated . 95% of the tractor is allready powdercoated, so doing the starter/generator the same way would be a better match and last longer .

Thank you.

Mike912e

Cubs 72,104,124,2206, mower decks , snowthrowers and rototiller . Lots of time and patience and very little money ( especially since discovering Cub Cadets )



#2 Arti OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2013 - 09:02 PM

I don't have a direct answer however I think the original varnish/enamel is baked on the wires at approx 200 degrees. Also common solder melts at about 350 Degrees so any solder joints will melt !!


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#3 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2013 - 09:21 PM

I would definitely say the field coils must be removed. A hand impact (hit it with a hammer type) may be your best bet on breaking those slotted screws out.

 

hand-impact_s.jpg


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#4 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2013 - 09:23 PM

Mike, I'd say remove the windings. Don't take any chances if you don't have to. Sounds like you've come too far, to make a mistake now.

 

As far as trying to get the slotted screws out. Soak them good with penetrating oil for a day or two, insert your flathead screwdriver, give a nice hit on the handle of the screwdriver, and hopefully they'll back out for you. Good luck to my friend!

 

Oh, and Welcome to the site. Hope you get everything you need out of it like we do, and that you decide to stay around for a while. Nice to have another local member on board too!


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#5 SearsYellow OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2013 - 09:24 PM

you might be able to take the armature and brushes out and have it powder coated.


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#6 Guest_rat88_*

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Posted January 08, 2013 - 09:41 PM

What about the epoxy holding the magnets?
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#7 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2013 - 09:57 PM

If I was to go thru the trouble of doing this, I would find a local re-builder to rebuild it, but explain to him/her want I wanted to do. I'm thinking they could disassemble it and let you power coat the housing before reassembly.

 

P.S. Like your thinking out of the box.


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#8 Wade M OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2013 - 10:07 PM

Not sure if the varnish can take 400 F. I believe when a motor is cleaned it is then baked around 200f to dry it out.  If the windings are revarnished I think they are baked around 800f. I would call a motor repair shop.  Most likely the grease in the bearing can't.  If it can be dissembled that will be your best bet as long as you can cover the mating surfaces from coating build up. Reassembly may be a problem 


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#9 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2013 - 05:03 AM

I'm with the rest of them.I think the windings,to be on the safe side.



#10 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 06:21 PM

Well, so far I've taken the windings out as well as the brushes and wire leads . Any thing that could possibly melt, burn or in any way be damaged by the curing temperature has been removed . It's amazing how really dirty the inside was . Grease and carbon make for electrical shorts, which isn't any good for these components . I learned a trick when I was working on Raymond Forklifts . There were allen head countersunk screws that were imposible to break free UNLESS you smacked the head of the fastener with a flat punch whose diameter was close to the screw head's diameter . It would break the locktite bond in the threads , releasing the fastener . I did the same thing when I removed the slotted head screws through the side of the motor/generator that held the coils/windings in place .

 I will keep you guys appraised of progress as soon as I get the parts to the powdercoaters and have them back in-hand .

Mike



#11 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2013 - 04:41 PM

Cub starter-generator 001.JPG Cub starter-generator 002.JPG Cub starter-generator 005.JPG Here's an update : the starter/generator parts are back from the powdercoaters . New bearings, brushes, springs and feed-thrus are installed . After reassembly I noticed that some of the powdercoating was chipped, especially around the screw heads . I took the powdercoated voltage regulator cover along to the local Ace hardware and had them match the color with enamal . It matches perfectly as can be seen in the attached pics I still have to locate the correct size 1/8th diameter rivets to reattach the ID plate . The new blank plate came with 3/32nd rivets which won't work ( the two holes are 1/8th inch ) . And I also have to purchase a set of metal stamp numbers and letters in the correct font ( gothic I believe ) and size ( 1/8th inch ) . Any feedback would be appreciated . Thanks to all the helpers here on GTtalk .

mike912e 


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