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Another 1975 Mf16


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#31 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2013 - 05:07 PM

Doug, Have you had time to do anymore?

 

That's Sat, Sun,s job, see what I can do with both MF16s, suppose to warm up a bit.


Edited by DH1, January 25, 2013 - 05:08 PM.

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#32 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2013 - 08:39 PM

Tonight after work I decided to mess with this thing and see if I can get it to run.

Swapped starters with a good one, now it cranks over, filled the points now it has spark, swapped the carp for one that was on my MF14 that I know runs, cleaned out the fuel tank, installed new fuel line, shut-off valve, filter, and bypassed the fuel pump.

Now I got spark, fuel, compression, and it cranks over good enough for it to start.

 

It runs, :dancingbanana: :dancingbanana: :dancingbanana: not very well, doesn't want to rev up, a little smokey at first and it seems to get hot quick, within a few minutes. I suspect blocked cooling fins, mouse nest. ???

I had it running long enough to know that the hyd lift works and the tractor moves, forward, backward.

 

I guess the next step is to pull the motor, it's covers, clean out the cooling fins, pull the head, lap the valves, set the tappet clearances, and check/grease the drive-shaft u joints. Plus rewire everything as not much of whats there works.

 

I want to turn this into a good grass cutter without spending a ton of money on it.


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#33 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2013 - 02:55 AM

Good news atdog, glad you are finding time to work on the 16 again

#34 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2013 - 04:27 AM

Glad you got it to run! Sounds like you have good plans for it!



#35 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2013 - 05:19 AM

Good to hear you got it fired up.

Being you swapped the carb, for a working one, why would it

not want to rev up?



#36 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2013 - 05:12 PM

If the valve is hanging up a bit it won't rev up.If it's getting hot and won't rev up I suspect it may have a blown head gasket.

 

What for carb did you put on it?If it's a Carter carb it should have a #30 stamped on the inside just above the choke flap.If it's a #26 then that's why it's running hot and won't rev up.

 

It's running super lean if it's getting hot quick.Blocked cooling fins will also make it get hot quick but you will smell it if it's a Mouse Hotel.The smell of burning Mouse pee has no equal.EWWWWWW



#37 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2013 - 02:03 PM

Today I had some time to work on this thing again and got it to run. No smoke, has some tappet noise.

I rebuilt the original carb put it on and it works much better.

I also found that the condenser was wired on the wrong side of the coil and it still has weak spark,  it has new points so maybe the coil N/G ??? going to put a new one on it.

Can see coil wiring in pic

008 (2).JPG

 

I blew out the cooling fins and found some debris in there, no mouse nest.

I have ordered a new starter for it as the starters I have, are N/G or wrong ones for the 16hp Kohler.

I plan on using this one as a grass cutter, hopefully soon it will cut some grass.

Pictures of the factory muffler, now I know what it looks like and maybe I can make one for my other MF16 that has no muffler on it.

001.JPG 002.JPG

003.JPG


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#38 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2013 - 02:11 PM

Doug, I think you can make that muffler if you can get the right "CAN" to add the inlet and outlet to.

 

Good Luck and I'll be waiting to see who it goes.


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#39 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2013 - 08:28 PM

I was working on this thing again tonight, got a new starter drive gear and brush-bushing kit for it but before I took the starter apart I pulled the engine from the chassis. Wanted to take a look inside it. I removed the head and found a really loose piston, moves back and forth 1/8" or more, so now I got to get more parts for this thing. Need to measure and see what size everything is.

 

One problem came up, I can't get the drive shaft off the trans-axle, there is a spot for a set screw but it's missing. ???

Looking in the hole where the set screw goes seems to be a flat plug, not an Allen set screw but a smooth shiny flat plug. ???

I believe you should be able to see the input shaft splines when looking in the hole.

I got the engine out by removing the other end off the engine.



#40 pianotuner OFFLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2013 - 08:57 AM

broken set screw?  = drill and tap?



#41 Craig. ONLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2013 - 09:50 AM

Nice find. Good luck. I'll be sticking with this thread.

#42 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2013 - 10:06 AM

Yes, the hydro input splines should show.  No hole opposite this one?  Makes me wonder if someone drilled & put in a pin???  

 Can ya get a clear close-up pic?



#43 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2013 - 04:08 PM

Yes, the hydro input splines should show.  No hole opposite this one?  Makes me wonder if someone drilled & put in a pin???  

 Can ya get a clear close-up pic?

 

No hole on the other side I'll try to get a picture.

 

Since the ujoint is in good shape I think I'm going to leave it along, put some freash grease in it and deal with it when/ if it fails.

I have 1 good spare driveshaft and transaxle just in case.



#44 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2013 - 06:28 PM

Fan won't slide far enough out of the way.

001.JPG 002.JPG 003.JPG


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#45 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2013 - 07:18 PM

Doug, I think that fan has to be free, and should come off. Maybe just a

burr holding it.

To me, it looks like that "plug" in the hole, is the broken set screw. (prt # 63)

I'd try to push that u-joint off. May scratch the spline a bit, but that can be filed

clean pretty easily. Use lots of oil.

 

ujoint.JPG

 

 






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