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Jacobsen 100 Series Front Attachment Mount


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#16 Wade M OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2013 - 09:31 PM

Thanks HankS, I am a week or 2 to completion of my restow.  I will fab one up after that. t37.JPG



#17 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2013 - 05:51 AM

....Now for the front side of the mounting plate.

 

attachicon.gifDSC_0003_01.JPGattachicon.gifDSC_0005_01.JPG

 

The tabs welded to the plate are made of 1/8" thick, 3" wide steel plate. They have a 1" slot with radius-ed ends cut in them similar to the slot in the mounting plate for the center axle bolt. Then the plate was folded in half leaving an ~7/16" gap between to the 2 sides. The pin that locks the blower/plow in place is 3/8".

 

The closest part of the radius to the mounting plate is ~7/8". Tough to get a good measurement due to weld beads. Outside to outside of the 2 tabs is ~9 1/2". It varies as the gap between the 2 halves after folding is a little wider at the mounting plate, where it's welded on, than it is at the fold.

 

Doing a little math, 1" for mounting rod on blower/plow + ~7/16" for locking pin + 1/8", thickness of plate x 2, it gets folded in half, = 2" + 7/8" + 1/4" = 5 1/8". Of course I've had a few beers so that's probably not even close.

 

I don't have the tools to fold that plate properly so if I was going to make it I would just use some 1/4 or 3/8" steel plate then weld a couple of pieces of steel pipe to the end to drop the locking pin through.

 

Kenny, if you want to send me the drawing first I'll look it over to see if you interpreted all this nonsense properly.

I have it all saved and printed out. I'll work on it some this morning. May be this evening before I get it finished.



#18 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2013 - 06:03 AM

Thanks HankS, I am a week or 2 to completion of my restow.  I will fab one up after that. attachicon.gift37.JPG

 

 

 

That is looking some good.



#19 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2013 - 06:45 AM

HankS, I have a problem. I used your measurements for layout, but it doesn't look like your pic of the back side.


DSC_0001_01.JPG       Plate.jpeg

 

 

The holes look to be too high on the plate.



#20 HankS OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2013 - 09:03 AM

I'll check my measurements again Kenny. I was kind of rushed yesterday so may have written one down wrong. One note, the measurements for the center slot are at the end of the slot, not the center of the radius at each end. Also I forgot to get a measurement for the distance of the tabs down from the top edge of the plate. I knew I would miss something.

 

Your drawing looks good so far, except for my screw ups. Wish I had a software package that would let me do it easily.


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#21 HankS OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2013 - 11:49 AM

Okay, I knew I would screw something up. The height of the plate should be 3 15/16, not 4 15/16. Or maybe 3 31/32. Using digital calipers I get different measurements at different points. As I said it looks like it was punched out in a stamping press so the edges of the plate aren't perfectly square. You could just call it 4" high, wouldn't make much difference. The holes for the mounting bolts are 7/16 on one side but taper as I mentioned. 27/64 drill fits through all of them, not sure I would worry about the 1/64" difference.

 

The top of the slot in the mounting tabs is 1 15/16" or maybe 2". It's 45 years old and I get different measurements at different points or between the 2 tabs.


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#22 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2013 - 07:36 PM

Okay, if I have this correct, the 1-1/4" wide slot is 2-1/2" long without the radius? I'll shorten the height to 4", that will make a world of difference. And I will see about the tabs when I draw up that side. It's no biggy, we'll get it drawn up so we have a usable part when done.

Hank, I use DeltaCad 7.0 for this. It's ~$40, but a very easy program to learn and use. It's not a 3D like AutoCad (X+Y, not X+Y+Z). I have been using it since Version 2.0 and I really like it.

 

Also, if you continue to take measurements from the top down, everything will be fine. Any minute amount will 'wash' out.


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#23 HankS OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2013 - 02:48 PM

Yes the center slot is a total of 2.5" long. That's from the highest point of the top radius to lowest point of the bottom radius. All vertical measurements are from the top edge down.



#24 HankS OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2013 - 03:01 PM

Thanks HankS, I am a week or 2 to completion of my restow.  I will fab one up after that. attachicon.gift37.JPG

 

Wade, if you make one and are willing to make another let me know what the cost would be. I can do all the welding but don't have the tools make the large slots required.



#25 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2013 - 04:55 PM

Wade, if you make one and are willing to make another let me know what the cost would be. I can do all the welding but don't have the tools make the large slots required.

Hank, I use a bi-metal hole saw to make that kind of stuff. Drill the hole at each end and use the angle grinder to cut out the excess between.


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#26 HankS OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2013 - 06:37 PM

Thanks Wade. I was just running some other ideas past Kenny on the mounting tabs and how to hold the locking pins. He's got a good drawing of the plate, just needs to finish up for the mounting tabs. I think we may end up with 2 options for those, you choose the one you like best.



#27 Wade M OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2013 - 08:43 AM

HankS,  I was going to make the slotted hole just like Ken describes. I was going to do the tabs the same way, then weld some close nipples (black pipe) for the pins to go through.  I like to fab thing as close to OEM, but with just enough of my own mod to spark a conversation.  If you look at my gallery you can see the mod i came up with for my steering shaft bushing.  



#28 HankS OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2013 - 09:27 AM

Wade, the other option is not much different than what you've seen. Just a different way to hold the locking pin. Either should work good. Personally I like the 2nd option a little better. You don't have to compensate for the wall thickness of the pipe. You want the locking pin pretty snug against the rod on the plow/blower so it doesn't bang around inside the mounting tab. I know using an original plate that it is a pretty close fit. Attached is a little drawing I did for Kenny to help him understand what I was saying. It's not to scale, just to give you a general idea. The tab is still made of 3/8" thick x 3" wide steel plate. That's outlined in black. The gray is 1/8" thick x 1" wide steel, maybe 4" long. It's folded in half, over a 3/8" or 7/16" pin to maintain the space between the 2 halves. Then it's slid over the front of the mounting tab leaving room for the locking pin and welded in place.

 

Side view on left, top view on right.

 

Mounting tabs.png


Edited by HankS, January 10, 2013 - 09:29 AM.


#29 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2013 - 07:11 AM

Wade, be sure to check the inside width of the attachment. Hank's blower is 9.5", the plow is 9.625". So there may be a difference with yours. I plan to show the tabs at 9.375" at the outside so it will be easier to mount the attachment. That should take care of any differences. If you use the pipe nipples, they are around .540" OD, so adjust inward as needed to clear.



#30 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2013 - 09:41 AM

Okay guys. Here is the finished drawing. IF anyone finds something incorrect, let me know. It's easy to change it. This shows the tabs as HankS posted last. You can use the 1/4" tube if you want, just adjust the spacing so you have it snug, yet can easily attach your blade or blower. The strap may be better, as it gives a good flat surface for the attachment to rub against.

HankS.jpeg

 


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