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Going After The Trailer Today!


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#16 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2013 - 09:21 AM

Looks like a great toy hauler.  I would guess that the final touch will be Ford blue pin stripes ??

It will see new paint later on. Color is up in the air right now.

 

best ramp is the attached ones. and if done correctly don't rattle !!   I hate a trailer that rattles all the time..

I will agree with that. I'll just have to see what kind of metal Aaron can get his hands on. But he works for a LARGE stone quarry here. Bet he can find all kinds of goodies in the scrap pile that will do the job. If he has to pay scrap prices, no biggy. Plus having to pull a heavy ramp out of a slot and hook it on can be a challenge these days. But I also want the ability to haul a vehicle if needed and it may be longer than the trailer. Then fold up ramps would be in the way.

Lots to think about here. Thanks for all the comments/ideas coming in. I'll weigh each one and figure out which will work best for my situation.


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#17 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2013 - 09:24 AM

Here's another tilting hitch but more money ,Al

http://shop.racingju...&cat=397&page=1


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#18 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2013 - 09:37 AM

Al, I may be able to come up with a solution  that would work like that. I have 2  of the slide in hitches similar to this:

2923.jpg

I think 1 will be used to tow with (have to see when I get there). The other I could turn upside down and put another ball on. When loading, unhook, jack up trailer. Slide other hitch in, hook back up. Load, the reverse the process for towing. A bit more work, but a whole lot cheaper.

Now I have so many ideas floating around, I'm antsy to go get it. But I said I would be there between 10 AM and Noon. Better get to loading goodies I might need to work on it.



#19 Bmerf OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2013 - 10:12 AM

Kenny, keep an eye on the bearing hubs, never know the last time they were greased (if ever) Having one seize up or worse, fall off, can make for a long day! :wallbanging:  Good Luck!


Edited by Bmerf, January 05, 2013 - 10:12 AM.

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#20 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2013 - 10:41 AM

That was one of the things to be done before it goes very far, but thanks for mentioning it. That's one things that gets overlooked at times.



#21 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2013 - 11:58 AM

Kenny, one thing I do when changine the ramp angle that is the LEAST amount of work and gets the same effect as flipping for 2 more inches, is I just leave the trailer hooked the the truck as is and jack the A-frame trailer tongue to jack up the back of the truck with the trailer about an inch or so more. You would be surprised at how well that method works and the ramp angle change that little bit provides. I have been doing that with my trailer (home built) since 2008 (the year I built it). If you want some ideas I can load some pics of it up for ya, as I did put fold up ramps on it as well.


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#22 A.C.T. OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2013 - 12:02 PM

Think of all the GT's you can get on that trailer!

Lucky_Duck_Rubber_Duckie_Shirt_Infants_Bib_2_Large.jpg

 

 


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#23 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2013 - 02:07 PM

I'm toying with the idea of a short dove tail that would swing up and latch (short tail gate affair). I'll talk that over with Aaron.

Several folks have commented that a trailer with this attached/flip-up ramp really catches a lot of wind and pulls hard and cutting MPG's really bad.

I pulled one like this once, and I could sure tell it was behind me!

 

BTW...nice looking tandem trailer. Did someone crash it, or load something too heavy to cause the damage you described?


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#24 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2013 - 02:50 PM

Several folks have commented that a trailer with this attached/flip-up ramp really catches a lot of wind and pulls hard and cutting MPG's really bad.

I pulled one like this once, and I could sure tell it was behind me!

 

BTW...nice looking tandem trailer. Did someone crash it, or load something too heavy to cause the damage you described?

They overloaded it. We got the trailer over to Aaron's and pulled the boards out. He had to work today, so we came back home. Here's the pics of the damage.

Image003.jpg     Image004.jpg

Image005.jpg     Image006.jpg

The boards were not attached to the cross braces. Plus the cross braces are only welded at the top edge, leaving them loose to flex and bend. It will be easy to get them out and straighten/replace. Axles will take a bit more work, but I trust Aarons judgement on getting them straightened back out.

It towed straight and easy. The wheel bearings will have to be addressed. There are no brakes on it. The lights are wired correctly for the Dodge.

Casey, I thought about using the trailer jack to lift things some. But I think I will get a new heavier jack for it first. This one is a real cheapy.

 

I forgot to add it is a 1/2" narrower at the back right now. I'll have right at 76"+/-  of inside width, so can't put 2 GT's side by side. May have to re think on loading things.


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#25 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2013 - 02:53 PM

I have heavy fold-up ramps on mine, but is 12,000 lb unit. Had to make the third one for narrow front tractors. Lotta work getting them UP! I have a pipe link between all of them, but can't lift all at once w/out help. Some big trailers have assist springs (I bought some, never got them on) that make lift easier. When alone, I put them up one at a time! Yes, they do rattle bad! My little trailer has the mesh gate and I like that. Also has dovetail to clear decks, but would rather have the extra as one level now that I have owned it and find that angle causes more problems. One good thing about flip-ups is they can hold things against them, tied up there or catch thngs You DIDN'T tie up good once under way. AND, just replace the wood with treated. 2x or 5/4" if that is all the room you have. Use those deck screws that just require one drill size and drve them tight. Treated will have to be removed in year or two because it shrinks and leaves gaps. Painting and sealing all over doesn't help either. Usually have to add a board then to take up the exra space gained! I have used tongue and groove, but it still leaves gaps with bottoms then and catches all the water in ther and rots faster.
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#26 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2013 - 03:00 PM

I would surely use better heavier metal for those crosses! Throw them away! Suare tubing or upside down angle will be heavier.

You sure those axles aren't supposed to be arced?? Trailer axles for mobile homes and othes have an arc in them, as they level out with loaded they told me. Seems arc was UP though, not Down! :(  If you  trap the deck in with angle irons at sides for now, you may be able to use and when they shrink, just add a board later before screwing down, or just add a few screws now randomly cause you will be taking them out to add boards later.


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#27 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2013 - 03:14 PM

Those cross pieces are 3" channel iron. I'm not impressed with how they are attached. You can see the bend in the axles is all wrong.

As far as the wood, at least 1 bolt for every cross brace. I should have taken more pics of how they welded the cross braces in. Only 1 weld across the upper flange. Nothing to keep them vertical except the flange. I'll know more when I talk to Aaron tomorrow on what our fix will be.



#28 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2013 - 04:34 PM

Kenny,

 

My trailer jack is a Tractor Supply labeled Bulldog A-frame jack with a 5 or 6 thousand pound rating and it has held up excellent with the way I have been doing things.

 

The 3 inch channel cross beams are more than stout enough (provided they are on edge)as long as they are welded to the side rails full height like on Dad's 16 foot trailer, and his cross supports are spaced 2 foot centers. My trailer which I built for GT's uses 2" x 1/4" thick angle iron spaced on 2 foot centers. Both trailers have 2x8 treated boards on the deck (overkill I know).

 

Next, ramps are easy and I will get pics of mine, as they are 2" angle iron 1/4" thick and 5 foot long, which has proven to be quite long enough for my trailer that sits 16" high to load a Case 222 with the mower deck under it. They are also 16" wide ramps and they are about as heavy as one can pick up. They do not catch the wind too horribly and are mounted on a pipe to allow to slide them from complete left to complete right side of the trailer.

 

Complete braking axles can be had for about $300 and brakes are about 100 bucks each. I would look into complete axle assembly and just replace the worst of the two axles, just my personal opinion.

 

Alright, I am rambling so get back to work LOL.


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#29 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2013 - 04:49 PM

I know what you are talking about, Alan. My old backhoe trailer had those. Until I get it hooked up and can see how long I can (or need to) make them, then see if I have enough room for that length to go under there. I may need at least 6' for mower decks to clear. Plus the rear angle iron is bent right now. It will get straightened out or replaced as needed.

Could also put them on the side, my last car carrier had them mounted that way. The only limit to size is how wide the trailer is. :thumbs:


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#30 UncleWillie OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2013 - 11:11 AM

Now that you have a trailer you can bring my tractor to me. :firejumper:

 

 

 Any progress on straightening up the bends in the framing?


Edited by mybigwarwagon, January 06, 2013 - 11:15 AM.





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