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Homemade Snow Plow

homemade snow plow white / jacobsen gt

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#31 backwoods OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2013 - 01:01 PM

factory old cub blades are 42" the blade on mine is 48" as its not a factory blade the garvely blade was 42" and most tube frame bolens are 42" as well. with the blade it a straight ahead postion they clear the tires when angled on my old 1050 bolens the rear tires were in un plowed snow but i think that is normal.


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#32 Watchdog OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2013 - 03:15 PM

Jeff,

 

Please accept this ONLY as something I ran across today NOT that your build is lacking or missing anything. Just another resource.

 

attachicon.gifmother_earth_blade.jpg

 

Here's the website the above pic came from:

 

http://vintagesearsg...rear_blade.html

 

Matthew

Matthew, thanks for the input. I wish I had come accross that drawing a while back.



#33 Watchdog OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2013 - 03:34 PM

Well, my project has progressed some today.  I had a friend drop by to show me his new crossbow and work came to a halt.  That's okay though, my knees have been bothering me the last couple days and it was time to hit the hot tub anyway.

 

2hregew.jpg

 

This is an end profile picture showing how far forward the blade curves.  It was just too much in my opinion.

 

efhp1j.jpg

 

So I cut off about four inches back from the leading edge.  It gives me a blade height of 13 inches and a little better profile (I think).  That should still get the job done, I hope.

 

2jant4i.jpg

 

This a picture of the angle iron down the back of the blade.  I had to notch the angle iron to keep it from coming into contact with the front tire when in the angled position.

 

1ie5hj.jpg

 

Here you can see it clears with a little room to spare.

 

I have a few pics of my counter balance to help put weight about back.

 

Thanks for following my build and all your input.

 

Jeff


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#34 Watchdog OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2013 - 03:51 PM

My idea for a counterbalance is pretty simple.  I have made a small frame that slides into the push frame of my plow assembly.

 

11hs2v8.jpg

 

It's one inche square tube, which slides right into the push frame tubes.

 

2csdrnr.jpg

 

Then I thought I would fasten a milk crate to that frame.  Milk crates are nice and sturdy and gives me a lot of options for weight.

 

2qnvdx3.jpg

 

I found some 5/16, self threading bolts in my bins of junk to bolt the crate on to the frame with.  I think I'll add something to line the bottom of the crate with, that the bolts can pass through to add some structural strength. 

 

How much weight is typically required on a GT plow set up?  I was thinking about putting a reusable shopping bag in the crate and filling it with a 50 lb bag of sandblasting sand. 

 

I would appreciate some feed back on the weight requirements.  It's all well and good to look up information on the internet, but what works for you guys out there is more reliable and valuable to me.

 

Thanks

 

Jeff


Edited by Watchdog, January 06, 2013 - 03:53 PM.


#35 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2013 - 04:08 PM

Jeff this is coming along great! Now that I see this I might use one of my old tanks to make a back blade for mine.

 

I see you have the same front tires (snow hogs) as I just put on my Jacobsen 1200 ( same as your white)

 

I like that idea on the sliding counter weight also :thumbs:

 

Good luck and keep up the good work!


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#36 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2013 - 04:11 PM

Milk crates are good, except they are brittle in the cold. Back into something and it could shatter. How heavy is the tractor itself? If it's not a lot, you may need more than 50#'s.


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#37 Watchdog OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2013 - 04:36 PM

How much does a persons body weight factor in?  LOL . . . I'm a delicate 275 lbs.  Thought should help a little. :bigrofl:

 

BTW, thanks KennyP, I was concerned about the crate becoming brittle.  Another thought I had was to use a 20 lb propane tank (with the top cut off).  In my bits of junk I have a tank holder from an old tent trailer.  If I welded that to my frame then I it would be easy to remove the tank and counter balance frame before I drop the plow frame.  A friend has a service station and I am thinking I could get a load of used lead wheel weights to fill the propane tank with lead.  That would make for a decent amount of weight, I would think.

 

Jeff


Edited by Watchdog, January 06, 2013 - 04:36 PM.


#38 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2013 - 04:47 PM

That would work. You could melt the lead and make wheel weights like I did on my Ford.



#39 bgkid2966 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2013 - 08:08 PM

Being that you are like me and light as a feather, it should not take too much weight to make her push real well.  I have no wheel weights, just my deep cycle battery located about where your crate is and a bunch of steel plates under the seat in the battery compartment. The curve of your blade looks good. If you want a little more height you can bolt a stiff rubber flap across the top. That should work well with the angle of the top edge.

   I am going to make wheel weights anyway and add a weight bar in back for dumbbell plates.  

 

 

 

 

Geno


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#40 backwoods OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2013 - 08:24 PM

what kind of tractor is it? the one pic i saw it looked like my old jacobson chief 1000. that had a berco blade on it and loaded ags and that would push anything i never had to use anything higher then 2nd gear



#41 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2013 - 08:29 PM

what kind of tractor is it? the one pic i saw it looked like my old jacobson chief 1000. that had a berco blade on it and loaded ags and that would push anything i never had to use anything higher then 2nd gear

This is a White town and County 112, Jacobsen made these also, so this would be the same as a Jacobsen 1200 or Ford 120. So same as yours just this one has a 12hp instead of a 10hp engine.



#42 backwoods OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2013 - 08:41 PM

there tanks like i said i had loaded ags and my blade didnt angle it was a plowing monster. heres a couple pics of my jacobson that i traded for the cub

gallery_8613_278_61143.jpg

gallery_8613_278_62677.jpg


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#43 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2013 - 09:02 PM

Everything is coming together great, but I do want to point out a couple little things I see that may make your life interesting.

First, I see the loading up on lead weight there may cause your blade to float up over the harder snow, then it becomes a progressive problem. I had this happen when I put a couple springs for lift assist on the blade when my (then 13 yr old) son was going to run it.

Second, Weight is a necessity, but anything beyond what you need for lift assist should be on the wheels if possible as any weight added to the tractor will be additional wear & tear on the rear axels and bearing/bushings.

Third, you may want to put a wings on the ends of the plow. I used rubber from a set of really heavy mud flaps with springs behind to help keep the at about a 30 degree angle. I was having problems with roll-off when pushing straight & it helped a LOT when I added the wings.

Hope the knees feel better, thanks for the update & the pics!
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#44 Watchdog OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2013 - 10:23 AM

Everything is coming together great, but I do want to point out a couple little things I see that may make your life interesting.

First, I see the loading up on lead weight there may cause your blade to float up over the harder snow, then it becomes a progressive problem. I had this happen when I put a couple springs for lift assist on the blade when my (then 13 yr old) son was going to run it.

Second, Weight is a necessity, but anything beyond what you need for lift assist should be on the wheels if possible as any weight added to the tractor will be additional wear & tear on the rear axels and bearing/bushings.

Third, you may want to put a wings on the ends of the plow. I used rubber from a set of really heavy mud flaps with springs behind to help keep the at about a 30 degree angle. I was having problems with roll-off when pushing straight & it helped a LOT when I added the wings.

Hope the knees feel better, thanks for the update & the pics!

 

Thanks MH81, its feed back from people with the hands on experience that made me want to do a build thread.  I've only been a small engine mechanic for four years and I took a night school course introduction to welding out of personal interest.  So my exposure to the GT world has been limited.  Bofore that I was Military Police for 21 years and needless to say the job was as far away from anything mechanical as anything could be.

 

With respect to the points you mentioned above; with the pivot point being so far back any weight I put into the crate made no noticeable difference in raising the blade, but that is being in a static position and things change when everything is put into motion. 

 

I didn't consider the possible effect on the rear end.  Having said that though, doesn't the addition of a sleeve hitch and implements place a similar load or burden to the rear end? 

 

I am probably answering my own question here, but thinking about it, with an implement on the back the load is only carried to and from the place where the work is being done.  While working, in the case of a plough or scraper blade, the load is then placed in/on the ground, whereas my idea for weight would be a constant load on the rear end.

 

The wings are a great idea.  I was just going to leave the end portions of the cylinder in place, but thought it would be a hinderence when the blade is angled.  The rubber flaps my be the answer though.  Can you post a picture of your set-up?

 

Thanks

 

 

Jeff


Edited by Watchdog, January 07, 2013 - 12:07 PM.


#45 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2013 - 12:29 PM

Jeff, First, thank you for your service, 

I will get a pic as soon as I can.  Maybe tonight, may be later on in the week.

 

The weight I'm tlking about isn't the odd 100# implement, it's the 200# or more that people sometimes hang on the back, plus their own weight, plus implements.  Just trying to help you keep the ole girl around for another 50 yrs.






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