Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Wow: Did Everyone Drop Off The Face Of The Earth?


  • Please log in to reply
35 replies to this topic

#16 achomesteader OFFLINE  

achomesteader

    GT Fanatic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8128
  • 867 Thanks
  • 2,231 posts
  • Location: Winston-Salem, North Carolina

Posted December 31, 2012 - 10:08 AM

I may be wrong Phil, but I don't think you have a regulator on that one. Could possibly have a bad diode though. Should be encased right behind the female connector.



#17 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,653 Thanks
  • 29,840 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted December 31, 2012 - 12:44 PM

I may be wrong Phil, but I don't think you have a regulator on that one. Could possibly have a bad diode though. Should be encased right behind the female connector.

 

That's what I was thinking Greg, but didn't want to say being I wasn't sure.



#18 skunkhome OFFLINE  

skunkhome

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8044
  • 322 Thanks
  • 455 posts
  • Location: Louisiana

Posted December 31, 2012 - 01:51 PM

Well I did not see that on the parts schematic. I'll look again. Who knows?

#19 glgrumpy ONLINE  

glgrumpy

    Getting Out!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 8360
  • 6,662 Thanks
  • 6,480 posts
  • Location: Huntington, IN 46750 North East in State

Posted December 31, 2012 - 02:13 PM

I use star washers under all my wire end connections that bolt to the metal. Even under regulators between the metal when they bolt do dash let's say. Those teeth bite right into the metal and make contacts each way. Probly would still rust, but would be less than clearing off whole area on tin.


  • skunkhome said thank you

#20 skunkhome OFFLINE  

skunkhome

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8044
  • 322 Thanks
  • 455 posts
  • Location: Louisiana

Posted December 31, 2012 - 03:08 PM

I went out and scraped the block bare at the point of the ground cable attachment. Does not appear to help. I got to thinking that I might have the wiring backwards AC/DC I tested with the multimeter and determined the wiring was apparently correct however I checked and I seem to have a max of about 9V AC and 1V DC @ 1.1 mA. I don't see anything I would recognize as a diode behind the connector.

9B9C3120-25D7-408C-97A4-C4A6006DB2C2-365

If the sheet metal is original then it was built in June 1986 but I haven't been able find a match for it in the Briggs guide. It looks like the two leads are white ( but hard to tell from what is showing) which doesn't match any description. I guess I am going to have to cut the heat shrink off the connector to see what the original color was. I think the connector itself is white. Still studying it.

Edited by skunkhome, December 31, 2012 - 07:37 PM.


#21 skunkhome OFFLINE  

skunkhome

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8044
  • 322 Thanks
  • 455 posts
  • Location: Louisiana

Posted December 31, 2012 - 09:23 PM

I may have it figured out.
If it is a 696458 then I have been measuring it incorrectly. You measure across the two pins in the plug with AC volts. I have been measuring eack pin to ground as if it were a dual circuit stator.i will have to check it out tomorrow. Across the two pins I should get a reading of 28 ACv. If I get that then all I am missing is the regulator which apparently mounts externally.

00fd20198aa38b4729786a06a4e78859.jpg

#22 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,508 Thanks
  • 39,733 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted January 01, 2013 - 07:07 AM

I think you will find a better reading across the 2 pins. Good luck And Happy New Year!



#23 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,653 Thanks
  • 29,840 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted January 01, 2013 - 09:06 AM

Got that reading yet Phil?  I bet you do have the newer system.  



#24 achomesteader OFFLINE  

achomesteader

    GT Fanatic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8128
  • 867 Thanks
  • 2,231 posts
  • Location: Winston-Salem, North Carolina

Posted January 01, 2013 - 09:15 AM

 It looks like the two leads are white ( but hard to tell from what is showing) which doesn't match any description. I guess I am going to have to cut the heat shrink off the connector to see what the original color was. I think the connector itself is white. Still studying it.

 

I think you'll find the leads are black and red, at least it appears so in this pic of your engine.

 

BDBB5D12-FF27-48D3-90C1-803FD7FC1A6B-402

 

If they are black and red and the connector is white, you should find the diode connected to the red wire under the heat shrink.

 

I'm still betting on the dual circuit alternator.   :smilewink:


Edited by achomesteader, January 01, 2013 - 09:16 AM.


#25 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,653 Thanks
  • 29,840 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted January 01, 2013 - 09:25 AM

You may be right Greg, as Phil's connector plug is not the right color for the newer style, but does have the same color plug as in your pic above.



#26 skunkhome OFFLINE  

skunkhome

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8044
  • 322 Thanks
  • 455 posts
  • Location: Louisiana

Posted January 01, 2013 - 09:26 AM

Oh, Greg, what a detective you are! I forgot about that photo. If that is the case then the readings are not good on either side.

#27 achomesteader OFFLINE  

achomesteader

    GT Fanatic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8128
  • 867 Thanks
  • 2,231 posts
  • Location: Winston-Salem, North Carolina

Posted January 01, 2013 - 09:37 AM

When you took the readings, was the engine running at 3600 rpms?



#28 skunkhome OFFLINE  

skunkhome

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8044
  • 322 Thanks
  • 455 posts
  • Location: Louisiana

Posted January 01, 2013 - 10:17 AM

Was running at WOT. Guess I need to put my tach on it.

Just thinking out loud here. According to what I'm Reading at Briggs the dual circuit was not available until 2007 however the Simplicity wiring diagram shows one of the 7100 series running the lights on an ac circuit. Could it be that I am missing something or that maybe the stator was changed at some point. Though the leads may be black and red the shrink at the end is not consistent with examples. Maybe the diod has been changed before and a new heat shrink was applied over both leads. If it is a replacement stator could it be a mismatch to the flywheel or will any combination work?

I guess when dealing with an engine that has been around for 28 years anything is possible

Later today I will check it out, weather permitting, but want to give neighbors sleeping off last night a quiet morning.

 

/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

 

UPDATE:  Greg, you are right the red lead has a diod in place.  Another clue is that the connector is painted red,  the original color of the engine so I assume it is original.  Another puzzle!


Edited by skunkhome, January 01, 2013 - 11:59 AM.


#29 achomesteader OFFLINE  

achomesteader

    GT Fanatic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8128
  • 867 Thanks
  • 2,231 posts
  • Location: Winston-Salem, North Carolina

Posted January 01, 2013 - 12:10 PM

The dual circuit alternator has been around a long time. Don't be confused by the heat shrink. The older ones looked like yours. They were a different part number at the time, but were really the same thing.

 

You could remove that stator and replace it with a #696458 and add a #845907 regulator to get a 10, 13 or 16 amp output, depending on the size of the magnets on the flywheel. You probably have the small magnets, so would get 10 amp output.



#30 skunkhome OFFLINE  

skunkhome

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8044
  • 322 Thanks
  • 455 posts
  • Location: Louisiana

Posted January 01, 2013 - 12:26 PM

Even with the small magnets the 10A output would be worlds better that 3A max at 3600 rpm.  The 696458 is readily available but I am not going to change unless the original stator is shot.  Armed with all this new info and knowing what I have (puzzling as it may be to me) I am going to conduct the tests again.  If the AC voltage is ok and the DCa is still in the 1a range than I will need to test the diod but that means a new multimeter with a diod test circuit.   

 

It really would be nice if the information on the Briggs site were accurate.


Edited by skunkhome, January 01, 2013 - 12:28 PM.





Top