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Snow Blade On Lgt165


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#1 nycub122 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2012 - 03:49 PM

I have a problem with the lift height on the snow plow for my LGT165 (open-sided).

The plow only lifts aprox 2" when correctly attached.

There is 1-1/2" of play in the lift linkage, yet all the bushings are in good shape.

If I put a 2x4 between the plow frame and the lift bar, I get aprox 6" of lift at the blade, however, the 2x4 doesnt stay in place when plowing (I've tried several methods to secure it with no luck)

I cannot believe that the plow was designed to only lift 2"

Has anyone else had this problem?

Any solutions?

Any thoughts would be appreciated

Thanks

GEL



#2 nycub122 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2012 - 04:03 PM

I should also mention that the tractor has hydraulic lift.

GEL



#3 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2012 - 04:05 PM

I have a similar problem with a Snapper 1600A. I also have trouble with the "lift assist" spring in the linkage. This has frustrated me for a year. I suspect that my lift assist is in wrong but haven't been able to solve it. Good Luck.



#4 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2012 - 04:28 PM

That's what I found on mine. I did take the lift undercarriage apart and put some new bushings in . That helped some on the lift, but still not a lot. Here is the thread.



#5 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2012 - 04:35 PM

I few pictures would help, but I'm thinking a plate attached to lift point with a few holes so you can pick the right one might work, Case tractors use a setup like this.Bottom left in photo.

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#6 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2012 - 06:14 PM

With the way these lifts are made, you won't get too much more as the blade 'arm' will hit the bottom of the front axle. Guess I need to find the thread on what I did to the blade. I did add a piece of metal to the bottom side where it rest on the forward lift section the gave a bit more lift, but not a lot.

 

 

EDIT: Here's the blade redo thread.



#7 poncho62 ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2012 - 06:22 PM

My LGT blade is different than the others I have seen.....it fits into the 2 pin holes on the front and has no part under the axle. Lifts nice and high...I am not sure if its factory or not but has a Ford sticker on it

 

 

 

 

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#8 nycub122 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2012 - 07:10 AM

Thanks to all for the comments.

 

Poncho62: As I suspected. there is a difference between the manual and hydraulic setups to attach the plow

What I see in your picture is that the plow frame attaches to the tractor through the inside of the tractor frame tubes, is that correct?

Would this setup provide better weight transfer to the rear wheels (since you are using the tractor frame as the plow frame)?

 

KennyP: We've talked about this in previous threads, have tried your suggestions, but have had no luck.

I see from your pictures that you have a closed-sided model, are the frames and lift linkages the same as a open-sided model with hydraulic lift?

You have been VERY helpful, both here and at the other forum----many thanks

GEL


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#9 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2012 - 07:23 AM

As far as I know, the open & closed sides are very similar on the deck lift. Maybe some minor things are different. I just think this style of blade will not lift very high. Now if you could take the manual lift blade set up and put a cylinder to lift it, you wouldn't have the issue of the front axle being in the way to get it higher.



#10 nycub122 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2012 - 07:29 AM

KennyP:

That's what I'm thinking also. Gonna look into this a little more.

Thanks again

GEL



#11 poncho62 ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2012 - 07:58 AM

On the 145 I had, it also had the manual lift lever (dont know why).....Anyways, the mechanism is under the cowling there. I believe there is a stamped cutout that could be removed and put a short lever on there


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#12 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2013 - 11:15 AM

I was just reading on another site that the plow and frame can be put on and will work with the front mule drive pulleys left inplace but they reduce the amount of lift. Removing them will allow greater lift.


Edited by boyscout862, January 01, 2013 - 11:16 AM.


#13 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted January 03, 2013 - 05:24 AM

The setup that poncho has is more effective than the under tractor method. The latter actually breaks traction far too easy com paired to the front push style. BUT, BUT if your doing fancy finish grade work, well the under tractor blade is wonderful. But who's grad I g snow ? Not me... the front mounted is a better solution.

Why does it push better you may ask ? Well it allows 100% of the tractors weight to transfer directly to the rear tires because it actually lifts the fronts up as more resistance is encountered.
The under slung plow does not. It only allows the tractors rear axle weight to provide traction, and all the weight that is forward of the hinge/ mounting point is wasted and counters the traction. A waste of good usable traction weight if you ask me....
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#14 poncho62 ONLINE  

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Posted January 03, 2013 - 06:59 AM

My fat rear on the seat helps too.....lol

 

Actually, I do get good traction with this tractor and plow......Just have a weight box with about 100 pounds of old chains in the back, chains on the tires....works good, rarely get stuck

I do have the plow on my 125 (hydro) now...it has the posi rear.


Edited by poncho62, January 03, 2013 - 07:00 AM.


#15 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted January 03, 2013 - 07:38 AM

The setup that poncho has is more effective than the under tractor method. The latter actually breaks traction far too easy com paired to the front push style. BUT, BUT if your doing fancy finish grade work, well the under tractor blade is wonderful. But who's grad I g snow ? Not me... the front mounted is a better solution.

Why does it push better you may ask ? Well it allows 100% of the tractors weight to transfer directly to the rear tires because it actually lifts the fronts up as more resistance is encountered.
The under slung plow does not. It only allows the tractors rear axle weight to provide traction, and all the weight that is forward of the hinge/ mounting point is wasted and counters the traction. A waste of good usable traction weight if you ask me....

 

Makes sense.

That wasted weight, could be as high as 30% or so. They must have been more focused on the

ease of linkage setup, when they designed that. The MF blades are the same, and don't lift high enough

either.






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