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Ramps-would You Use These?


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#16 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2012 - 05:40 PM

Tell them what I used and how I loaded my tractor on my pick-up at your plow day.

 

Damp boards & no driver!!!!!!!! Still scares me today!  :smilewink:



#17 lyall ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2012 - 05:45 PM

I like the ramps I made

2x12 - 12" long then I bolted on angle iron on both sides of the 2x12's

I can load my JD 214 with a snow blower or the tiller and have no problems loading it.

the longer the ramps are the safer they are.



#18 oldtimer OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2012 - 05:56 PM

I have a pair of 2" X 12"X 12' also. I put some angled ramp ends on  that will lay in a pickup; and use spikes in the ground.  Don't own a pickup, but have used them several times over the years using someone else's.   I wouldn't chance those ramps!!



#19 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2012 - 06:03 PM

Damp boards & no driver!!!!!!!! Still scares me today!  :smilewink:

 

I have a 6ft box so I made my ramps 6ft long, fit inside the box with the tailgate up.

They are double 2x10s, 3" thick with steal angled ends that rest on the tailgate and are pinned to the tailgate.

When I load a tractor, I stand beside it, let it drive itself up the ramps, when it gets on the truck, turn the key off.



#20 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2012 - 06:08 PM

I have a 6ft box so I made my ramps 6ft long, fit inside the box with the tailgate up.

They are double 2x10s, 3" thick with steal angled ends that rest on the tailgate and are pinned to the tailgate.

When I load a tractor, I stand beside it, let it drive itself up the ramps, when it gets on the truck, turn the key off.

 

I have to say, that watching him load, it's easy to tell he's a pro at it.  Really, all I worried about was the boards being damp.  But it didn't even think about slipping, but with a rider I'm sure it would have.  Doug knows what he's doing!  :thumbs:



#21 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2012 - 06:14 PM

I have to say, that watching him load, it's easy to tell he's a pro at it.  Really, all I worried about was the boards being damp.  But it didn't even think about slipping, but with a rider I'm sure it would have.  Doug knows what he's doing!  :thumbs:

 

Learned the hard way.

One time when I drove the tractor up the ramps, they were not pinned to the tailgate, they kicked out off the tailgate and I ended up with a broken foot.



#22 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2012 - 07:43 PM

I think that I would update the Insurance Policy before I'd try running a garden tractor up those ramps. I use 7' pressure treated 2" x 12" and have rubber treading screwed to the face for grip, and heavy duty aluminum plank ends that sit on the tailgate. The underside of the aluminum plank ends have a rubber facing on them so they don't slide across the tailgate. I also cut the other end of the planks on a 60 degree angle so that the plank sits more flush on the ground due to the ramp angle. Haven't had any problems yet (knock on wood) and don't see anything happening in the future.

 

As for the idea as to "longer is better" I have to disagree with that. You guys that have longer planks, and have reinforced them with angle iron or steel, good for you and way to use your heads. Just glad I don't have to lift those planks of yours! For the guys that just use long planks without reinforcement, please beware. Depending on how much plank is actually sitting on the bed of the truck or trailer, the bow that will accure from driving your tractor up the planks, will actually shorten the amount of plank sitting on the bed. Now unless you like the taste of tailgate, please be sure to reinforce the planks with some type of steel so that you eliminate as much bow as possible. Not trying to step on toes here, just trying to point out a real safety hazard that could or will accure if not done correctly.

 

My opinion, only make the planks as long as safely needed. The shorter the better, but only if they can be used safely. The longer the planks, the more risk you take of snapping.



#23 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2012 - 07:59 PM

I added 6' landscape timbers under mine, and nonslip tape on the top side.

#24 lyall ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2012 - 08:15 PM

with the long ramp I have put cement blocks under the ramps.  it helps the ramps from bowing



#25 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2012 - 09:03 PM

I had a 54 2-ton flatbed in past and made ramps for it. Big enough to run a car or bigger tractor up on them. I used the two frame rails from another 2-ton I tore down and they had nice natural bend where frame came in for the front suspension. Used that for the top and got arch from the bend. I put 2x12's on tops and ran2x4's down sides. I then made them into the sides of the bed, hooked up to quick release and swing down to hook up. BIG angle iron in end hooked into the flatstock welded around bed. ONe about cracked a Nut trying to move them around, specially IF you dropped to ground! But, they worked well. Did a few cars and small tractors and didn't fall off. They were about 14" wide and 12ft long. Always said I will never have some that heavy again!  Now I have a big equipment trailer and small flatbed for moving most things. ALL nice and LOW to ground!



#26 braxx OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2012 - 02:49 PM

I would take the tailgate off and rest the ramps on the bumper along with jockeying the truck into a position that would lower the tail end as much as possible. That's how I use my short ramps. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

#27 1978murray OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2012 - 05:08 PM

i hate ramps either way. i tend to have bad luck with them slidding or the mechine loosing traction.  Had couple tractors fall at that hieght and its scarry



#28 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2012 - 05:18 PM

i hate ramps either way. i tend to have bad luck with them slidding or the mechine loosing traction.  Had couple tractors fall at that hieght and its scarry

 

That's why I PIN the ramps to the truck and STAND BESIDE the tractor, let it drive itself up the ramps, turn the key off when it's on the truck.



#29 A.C.T. OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2012 - 05:28 PM

Not the real thing!  Go bigger or go home.

 

imagesCAMU09AB.jpg

 

 

 

 

 



#30 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2013 - 10:25 AM

I won't use any ramps to load into a pickup.  If I don't have a bank I can drive right into the truck with, then my loads go into a trailer.  My trailer ramps will hold a farm tractor.  I've seen too many ramp failures to ever want to use them.  Then there's the tailgate cables nobody ever checks till they snap.  Hard to check them anyway, as most are wrapped & they rot inside the covers.

 

Good call on the tailgate cables. I've never loaded a GT in a truck but back when I had a 4-wheeler I made a set of ramps out of 2"x12"x6', I nailed a 10" strip of expanded steel to the board an had heavy steel angles at the end that would hook between the truck bed and bumper (tailgate removed). They worked great.

 

Those aluminum ramps look like they would work fine for something that has a decent break-over angle and is light weight.






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