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Bolens Estate Keeper Restoration

bolens ek-10 estate keeper 1969 tra-10d restoration 931-02

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#61 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2013 - 02:47 PM

You got one off a Tubeframe......

 

Well, do you still need one then yourself, Doc, or are you all set?  If you don't need the air cleaner elbow, then I'll take the one that 1967Bolens Collector has for mine.

 

If anyone wants a good looking tube frame air cleaner elbow, let me know since I don't need this one.  That won't work on my 850's engine, will it?  I mean, I already have one on mine anyways, so IDK why I would need another, but still...

 

Thanks!



#62 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2013 - 07:03 PM

Well, do you still need one then yourself, Doc, or are you all set?  If you don't need the air cleaner elbow, then I'll take the one that 1967Bolens Collector has for mine.


 

Thanks!

 

It has been Claimed .......



#63 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2013 - 12:37 PM

It has been Claimed .......

 

Awww shucks...  :ah_shoot:  :(   That just ain't right...  :watching_you: 

 

Guess I'll just have to keep looking then...  :watch_over_fence:



#64 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2013 - 09:32 AM

Wow, I can't believe it has been almost 2 months since I have been online here and updated this thread!  But, cold, snowy, damp, wet and just miserable outdoors winter conditions have really kind of hampered progress on anything.  But, it is March now and if that stupid groundhog is any indication at all, we were supposed to be in spring weather by now!  (No 6 more weeks of winter, right?  Or does that just mean less than 6 weeks of winter?  IDK...  Stupid rodent...)  In any event, I also got a decent tax return back from the Federal gubment, so I'm going to slowly start buying parts and trying to get things moving with my Estate Keeper now, if the weather starts to cooperate at least!  I also just bought a ton of new parts to fix up my trailer so hopefully I can get that actually registered and legally on the road finally!  (But that might end up being another thread, if I even decide to post about my progress on that at all here...  It should be pretty sweet when I'm done though, I hope!)

 

So, bear with me and hopefully some updates will be coming soon.  I'm already placing a big order of EK parts as I'm writing this.  I might even start taking apart the mower deck sometime this week so I can get all the parts ordered I might need for that and get started restoring the deck to get that ready.

 

Of course, I'm still having a heck of a time tracking down the correct Starter/Generator adjusting strap and the correct air cleaner elbow for the TRA-10D engine on my EK-10...  If anyone can help me out with those parts, I'd be very grateful!  Thanks!



#65 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2013 - 08:54 AM

.

Wow! I finally have a photo update for you all on the Estate Keeper!!  Will wonders never cease?

 

In any event, I had started taking the deck apart last week when the weather was still looking fairly nice.  I was a bit more worried about taking the Estate Keeper deck apart than the one for my 850 since the EK deck has a more complicated mechanism for the deck height adjustment and I wanted to be sure I could figure out how to get it all back together again. So, I tried very carefully to get a look at the height adjustment as I was taking it apart.  I managed to screw it up on the left side and the mechanism just fell out on the floor before I could get a good look at it or take any pictures.  But I took my time with the right side and managed to preserve it as it was while removing it and got some good pictures of how it goes together.

 

But, before I even got there, I had to worry about breaking loose a huge bolt and nut that was holding the left side deck extension arm to the deck hanger assembly.  I had a heck of a time getting it off and it seemed like it was held on by a combination of Loc-Tite and rust.  I had soaked it in PB Blaster a few times and let it sit and I still had no luck getting it off.  So, I took a big wrench to hold one side of the bolt and braced it against the floor. I then used an impact socket on a 3/4" ratchet and slid the handle for my floor jack over the ratchet handle to get me some extra leverage.  After about 10 minutes of bending my jack handle I finally broke the nut free and got it apart.  What a pain in the @$$!!!

 

Overall look of the deck before I started taking it apart:

EK-10Deck_01.jpg

 

EK-10Deck_02.jpg

 

EK-10Deck_03.jpg

 

EK-10Deck_04.jpg

 

 

The deck gearbox looks pretty grungy and seems to be missing the vent as well and has a golf tee shoved in the vent hole!

 

EK-10Deck_05.jpg

 

 

How the heck did the decal bleed through green paint?  I thought this decal had a white background?

 

EK-10Deck_06.jpg

 

 

Unfortunately I couldn't get any numbers off of this decal either...

 

EK-10Deck_07.jpg

 

 

Another good overall look at the top of the deck before I take it apart:

 

EK-10Deck_08.jpg

 

 

The front caster wheels were pretty shot and didn't roll or rotate around very freely.  Made it a pain to try and roll the deck into the garage that way!

 

EK-10Deck_09.jpg

 

 

This wheel was particularly bad...

 

EK-10Deck_10.jpg

 

EK-10Deck_11.jpg

 

 

Goin' down under...  Because we come from the Land Down Under, where women glow and men plunder...

 

EK-10Deck_12.jpg

 

 

...Can't you hear the thunder?  You better run, you better take cover!

 

EK-10Deck_13.jpg

 

 

Deck drive pulley from the under side of the deck...

 

EK-10Deck_14.jpg

 

 

Deck drive pulley and gear box from the top side.  Pretty filthy...

 

EK-10Deck_15.jpg

 

 

Here is the deck height adjustment from the left side that fell apart while I was trying to disassemble it.  As you can see, I tried to stage it for the photo but I have it wrong:

 

EK-10Deck_16.jpg

 

EK-10Deck_17.jpg

 

 

Nice effort, but no...

 

EK-10Deck_18.jpg

 

 

This is the right side deck height adjustment assembly.  Here I got smart and I turned the height adjustment knob all the way out so the deck was as low as it could get so that I could see more of the mechanism before I started taking it apart:

 

EK-10Deck_19.jpg

 

EK-10Deck_20.jpg

 

 

I then took the rest of the assembly off of the deck and turned it upside down before taking it apart so I could get a good look at it and control how it came out better.

 

EK-10Deck_21.jpg

 

EK-10Deck_22.jpg

 

EK-10Deck_23.jpg

 

EK-10Deck_24.jpg

 

EK-10Deck_25.jpg

 

 

I managed to get the deck height adjustment assembly out from this side in one piece and then I staged it on the floor so I could get some good pictures of it so I'll (hopefully) remember how it all goes together:

 

EK-10Deck_26.jpg

 

EK-10Deck_27.jpg

 

EK-10Deck_28.jpg

 

EK-10Deck_29.jpg

 

 

So, after getting all of the deck hanger assembly off and out of the way, the next step was to remove the belt cover.  However, the previous owner (PO) had already evidently broken off or lost all of the original cover bolts, so he replaced them with slotted screws that were held on underneath with an assortment of wing nuts and square nuts.  Of course, absolutely all of it was rusted solid and since slotted screws suck @$$, I couldn't budge any of them.  So, I had to take my Dremel to them with some cut-off discs.  I ran out of cut-off wheels half-way through cutting these screws off, so I had to buy another 20 pack from Lowe's before I could continue.  I did finally manage to get the cover off though:

 

EK-10Deck_30.jpg

 

 

I was worried about the condition of the deck since everything was rusted shut.  I couldn't even spin any of the blades, pulleys, or belt by hand they were so frozen.

I also thought it was kind of weird how Bolens routed the deck drive belt differently between the 38" and the 42" decks.  Not sure why they did that.  The 42" deck would have worked just as well if the drive belt was routed the same as the 38" deck belt...

 

EK-10Deck_32.jpg

 

 

Well, there were a lot of steps in the middle here too, but because I got all greasy hammering out the blade drive spindles and the totally rusted and frozen bearings, I didn't feel like ruining my camera by trying to take pictures with greasy hands.  So, I just finished taking at all apart, washed my hands off, and then took photos of what was left:

 

EK-10Deck_33.jpg

 

EK-10Deck_34.jpg

 

EK-10Deck_35.jpg

 

 

Here are all the parts I pulled off of the deck and are ready to be powdercoated:

 

EK-10Deck_36.jpg

 

 

One of the things I had found though after I took the deck spindles apart (which were frozen solid because of the rusted bearings) was that the deck drive gearbox did spin freely at least, which was good.  It seemed to feel alright, but was very noisy when I was spinning it.  I'm pretty sure it is dry as a bone and was never properly lubricated.  Is this going to be a problem going forward?  I'm not sure if I can just fill it up with 80W90 gear oil and be okay or if I should replace the gearbox all together since the teeth could be worn out from running it without oil?  Obviously all of the ball bearings in the deck need to be replaced since they are all rusted junk.  As far as the pulleys go though, are they actually bolted onto the spindles or something?  These have a grease fitting in the top of the spindle and it looks to have a bolt under the fitting before the pulley.  Is that just what the grease fitting screws into or something and it is part of the pulley or is that what holds the pulley onto the spindle?  Do I even have to take it apart or can I just leave it as is and throw some new bearings on it and put it back together?  The pulleys look good, but I wanted to paint them before I put it back together...

 

Now that I had the deck all pulled apart, the second step was to take the tractor apart to get that painted as well.  I had planned on separating the two halves of the articulating tractor so I could coat the front part in yellow before putting it back together again.  I also have the engine cover at a welding shop right now being fixed or else I'd have that coated at the same time.  But for right now, fixing the cracks and the broken hinge tabs is more important.  Here are the picures of the tractor once I managed to get it all apart:

 

EK-10-03232013_01.jpg

 

EK-10-03232013_02.jpg

 

EK-10-03232013_03.jpg

 

EK-10-03232013_04.jpg

 

 

I do have to admit that the articulating steering shaft was a pain to get off and deal with in general.  I did manage to get it apart though.

 

EK-10-03232013_05.jpg

 

EK-10-03232013_06.jpg

 

EK-10-03232013_08.jpg

 

EK-10-03232013_09.jpg

 

 

All the parts I took off the tractor to be cleaned up:

 

EK-10-03232013_10.jpg

 

EK-10-03232013_11.jpg

 

 

So, yeah... that's about where I left off with it then.  I'm heading out today to drop off all these Estate Keeper parts to be sand blasted and powdercoated.  I still have some engine work to attend to as well and work on rewiring the whole tractor since the old wiring looks pretty bad and hacked up already.  I had Bolens 1000 make up a wiring harness for me so I'll be installing that on my tractor before I put it back together.  When I was taking apart the throttle cable on it as well, I noticed that someone cobbled together the throttle assembly wrong on the engine.  I'll have to take the air cleaner assembly off and try to get some other things out of the way to get a better look at it to see how they managed to mess it up, but it looks like it is just not working properly.  It could just be frozen up or something...

 

Well, more updates to come as I make more progress with this thing.  I did finally manage to get ahold of Tom at Farmersville Equipment as well and talked to him about Estate Keeper parts.  I'll be sending him a list of parts I need to see what he can get for me.  I might not be able to get everything I need from him though as he told me he doesn't really have a whole lot when it comes to Estate Keeper parts.  He said he should have the S/G bracket I need though as well as the air cleaner elbow and possibly a seat and a few other parts.  He said he has a good engine cover as well if the attempts to fix mine don't work out, but he wants like $150 for it.  He also said the only attachment he has for EK's is a mint snow blower for them, but since it is in such good original shape, he said he wants like $400 for it, which I told him I'd pass on that.  I hope he can get me the other parts I need though at a reasonable price...

 

Until next time!


Edited by MailmAn, March 24, 2013 - 09:07 AM.

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#66 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2013 - 09:22 AM

Kevin:

 

There's no better time to address the noisy gearbox than now, since it is already off the mower deck.

 

While it is true that the gears sometimes get chewed up (when a roll pin holding a gear shears), they can often be filed to get rid of the burrs and be re-used.

 

Sometimes the noise is from worn or dry needle bearings on the input & output shafts.  ....There are two needle bearings on each shaft.

 

Two new seals on the gearbox should prevent future leaks if the bearings are good. 


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#67 Nato77 ONLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2013 - 09:23 AM

Having all them parts powdercoated is taking alot of the work out of it for you. :D  No cleaning, sanding, and painting. How close are the colors they're using on it to original?

 

I'd open the gearbox to see what the gears look like. If they look abit ify and worn I'd replace them. Don't you have extra snowcaster that wasn't complete? The gears out of the gearbox on that could possibly be the same, not forsure on that.



#68 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2013 - 10:39 AM

Looks like you are making some good Progress, Thanks for the update

:ditto: the previous posts about the gearbox.

 

What kind of color options do you have for powder coating?



#69 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2013 - 03:10 PM

Having all them parts powdercoated is taking alot of the work out of it for you. :D  No cleaning, sanding, and painting. How close are the colors they're using on it to original?

 
Yes, that is very true it does save a lot of work for me (which is good :D), and hopefully it will protect the tractor and deck better than using crappy paint like I did on my 850.  I wasn't really happy with the final product on my 850 project and I put a lot of time and effort into sanding and painting that and after not even one season (more like a partial season) the paint is already flaking off of it, especially on the deck.  So, I thought I'd try to do this one right from the start and have it all just powdercoated, especially the deck which sees more abuse than the rest of the tractor.  However, that is another drawback of having it all powdercoated is that I don't have as many color options as paint.  I'm pretty sure that they won't be able to match the green paint on the deck in powder.  He told me the closest they have is a darker green, kind of like John Deere green or even maybe more of like a forest green.  IDK, I haven't seen it myself yet.  But he says he doesn't think he can get the exact color green for that.  For some odd reason though, he thinks he'll have better luck matching the yellow they used in powder than the green.  So, I guess I'll just have to see how it comes out.  I would have liked to keep it the same original colors, but I'm more interested in having it look good and be protected than having the colors match perfectly. My only other thought would be to have him powdercoat it and if the color is way off and I don't like it, at least he did all the prep work for me and I could spray over the powdercoating with the correct color paint. Would there be any problem with this though, such as the paint not sticking to the powdercoating? I already asked him about that but he just said that the paint would start to peel off of the powdercoating eventually and look bad. Or I can just have a more-or-less correct looking yellow EK-10 with a very dark green mower deck for something different... lol.

#70 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2013 - 03:18 PM

There's no better time to address the noisy gearbox than now, since it is already off the mower deck.
 
While it is true that the gears sometimes get chewed up (when a roll pin holding a gear shears), they can often be filed to get rid of the burrs and be re-used.
 
Sometimes the noise is from worn or dry needle bearings on the input & output shafts.  ....There are two needle bearings on each shaft.
 
Two new seals on the gearbox should prevent future leaks if the bearings are good.

 

That is a good point. I actually took the back cover off of the gearbox so that I could have that powdercoated as well. He told me that he couldn't powdercoat the gearbox anyways as it is too complicated and it would be ruined by the baking process, so I had to take that off. The gearbox does look pretty bad though. There was absolutely NO oil in it when I took the back cover off and the gears look pretty chewed up. He said it looked like it was run with sand and rocks in the gearbox instead of oil! The end-play seems okay though and there is no excessive play in the bearings I don't think. However, like I said, it was probably run without oil for a long time and the gear wear shows it. The teeth are just all chewed up bad, but oddly enough it still turns okay, it is just noisy. I'm not sure if I'm better off just getting another gearbox or if I can rebuild this one and use it? What are the price differences and what am I better off doing? I can check with Tom to see if he has any spare gearboxes to start. I am also missing the breather on the gearbox though and the PO shoved a golf tee into the hole to try and plug it up... :wallbanging:


Edited by MailmAn, March 25, 2013 - 03:19 PM.

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#71 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2013 - 11:55 AM

.

Well, I got my tractor parts back all nice and powder coated when I went home for Easter.  Unfortunately, we had a freak spring cold snap here and it snowed earlier in the week all over my nicely coated parts (not enough to bother shoveling, but enough to make life miserable, lol...).  So, I haven't had the chance to take picures of everything yet until now.  So, here are the pictures of all the parts that I had coated so far.  I still have to do the engine cover yet once it comes back from being welded and fixed.  The green he coated the mower deck in is way off and a lot darker than the original Bolens green.  I'd say it is even darker than like a JD green, honestly.  But, that was the only green he had available.  He told me that the company that makes the powdercoat could match any color that I want, but I would have to buy something like 60-100 gallons of powder in order for them to make it worthwhile to make a custom color up for me.  So, I told him to go with whatever green he had available, lol...  What do you guys think?  I know it is not "factory" but it's honestly not bad.  The yellow looks a lot better and is pretty close to original I think.  The only other thing he seemed to mess up was the PTO center mount that is under the front body since he coated that green instead of yellow.  I'm not even sure if it had a color originally or if it was just plain aluminium or cast iron colored.  He said it was hard to see any original color on it since it was so greasy and dirty and disgusting. Oh well...

 

So, without any further ado, here are the pics:

 


EK-10Deck_37.jpg

 

EK-10Deck_39.jpg

 

EK-10Deck_41.jpg

 

 

Here are the rest of the pieces that I couldn't get powdercoated that I left in the box.  He was worried the heat from the baking process would damage the Universal Joints and he didn't want to sandblast them or the hub assemblies either since he was afraid of wrecking them.  So, I'll just have to soak them in some degreaser to clean them up and try painting them myself if I want them to like nice.

 

EK-10Deck_42.jpg

 

 

I also managed to take the deck left lever off before I had the body powdercoated.  Unfortunately, I couldn't get the brake/clutch pedal apart, but he did still manage to do a great job getting it all coated despite that.  Unfortunately reassembly will be a pain in the @$$ since I hammered out the roll pin to try to take the pedal apart and managed to hammer the linkage around trying to free it up so it isn't all lined up where it is supposed to be anymore...  :wallbanging: :mad2: :wallbanging:   That should be fun to try and get back to where it belongs now after it has been powdercoated...  :(

 

EK-10Deck_43.jpg

 

 

Here is the mower deck gearbox that I took apart.  I had the back powdercoated in that darker green, so I'll have to try to paint the gearbox if I want it to match.  As I figured, the gearbox was dry as a bone and as you can see, running it without oil wasn't good to the gears.  Is this basically junk now or are the gears still good enough to use?

 

EK-10Deck_44.jpg

 

 

The front gear there looks the worst...  the back gear doesn't really look too bad.

 

EK-10Deck_45.jpg

 

EK-10Deck_46.jpg

 

 

Close-up of the missing and cobbled up gearbox vent:  :wallbanging:

 

EK-10Deck_47.jpg

 

 

And what the heck is this radiator clamp here for?  Is that actually holding anything together?  Just wondering why it is there...

 

EK-10Deck_48.jpg

 

 

So, that is where I am right now.  What do you think?  Should I just leave well enough alone and put it together and use it as it is?  Should I get the original Bolens deck paint code and respray the whole deck and all the parts the correct color green before I reassemble it and use it?  Am I being too nit-picky and making more work for myself that way?  I mean honestly, despite it being the wrong color to be an OEM match, the green isn't a bad looking color at all and I think it actually goes pretty well with that yellow.  What do you all think?



#72 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2013 - 12:22 PM

Thanks for the update

As for paint, I guess it all depends on what you want to do with it.

 

Like others have mentioned, you may be able to file down the burrs and sharp edges on the gears and make them useful again.Wonder if one of the needle bearings went on it and threw the gears out of alignment....

The Breather looks to be the old style where they just had that open hole on top, the newer ones had a spring activated top which sealed them off.

 

I would almost bet that there is a crack in the housing where that Clamp is. The previous owner probably put that there to try and keep the crack from getting bigger.....


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#73 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2013 - 12:37 PM

The Breather looks to be the old style where they just had that open hole on top, the newer ones had a spring activated top which sealed them off.

 

I would almost bet that there is a crack in the housing where that Clamp is. The previous owner probably put that there to try and keep the crack from getting bigger.....

 

Oh, so that style of breather was just supposed to be open at the top like that?  (Not with a golf tee in it, obviously...)  How is water supposed to stay out of it then like that?  You're right, I would like the newer style with the spring loaded top to keep it sealed from the elements...

 

I'm not sure on that yet as I'd have to clean it up and take that clamp off to inspect it, but if that casing is cracked under the clamp like you're thinking, then is that game over for that gearbox and I have to get another one?  I mean, I'm sure it might still work for a while like that, but the gear oil will keep leaking out of the crack and make a mess of my newly powdercoated deck and keep wearing the gears and I'm sure the needle bearings as well...  :(



#74 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2013 - 12:42 PM

BTW - After looking at the powdercoating job in my pictures above, any guesses as to how much it cost me to have the whole deck (and all the lift mechanisms and deck adjustment parts) and the front tractor body powdercoated?  Scroll up if you need a reminder of how dirty, greasy, and grimy it was before...  He had to burn off all that and completely sandblast all the parts before powdercoating it all...



#75 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2013 - 02:45 PM

Oh, so that style of breather was just supposed to be open at the top like that?  (Not with a golf tee in it, obviously...)  How is water supposed to stay out of it then like that?  You're right, I would like the newer style with the spring loaded top to keep it sealed from the elements...

 

Yes, That's how they originally came, If you take the golf tee out the rest is all OEM :D

Unless you leave it out in the elements there's really no way water can get in there. There were probably Complaints which led to them switching the design.

 

I'm not sure on that yet as I'd have to clean it up and take that clamp off to inspect it, but if that casing is cracked under the clamp like you're thinking, then is that game over for that gearbox and I have to get another one?  I mean, I'm sure it might still work for a while like that, but the gear oil will keep leaking out of the crack and make a mess of my newly powdercoated deck and keep wearing the gears and I'm sure the needle bearings as well...  :(

 

Its hard to say without seeing, it may just be a small hairline crack or nothing at all.....


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Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: bolens, ek-10, estate keeper, 1969, tra-10d, restoration, 931-02

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