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Bolens Estate Keeper Restoration

bolens ek-10 estate keeper 1969 tra-10d restoration 931-02

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#46 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2013 - 06:05 AM

All attachments are currently off at the moment.

 

Actually, a shot with the attachments off could shed some light on the subject as well.  It would give me a better idea of how the wheel is held onto the axle behind the extension arms.  I can sorta see a cotter pin behind it in one of 1967Bolens Collector's photos, but it is hard to see.  I have those big spring cotter pins on mine that hold the attachment extension arms on with, but on mine that was all that was used to hold everything on with.  Also, it looks like that big spring cotter would go in the bigger of the two holes, but on mine the bigger hole seems to be in back, not in the front.  I don't think that would fit into the smaller hole?  IDK why this seems so confusing, you'd think it should be pretty dang straight-forward, right?  :(   Maybe I gotta go take another look at mine sometime.  Been waiting to find some way to mount that Starter/Generator first though before I go poking around at it anymore...



#47 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2013 - 11:47 PM

  :anyone:           :camera:            :yeah_that:



#48 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 07:06 AM

...give me a better idea of how the wheel is held onto the axle behind the extension arms.  I can sorta see a cotter pin behind it in one of 1967Bolens Collector's photos, but it is hard to see.  I have those big spring cotter pins on mine that hold the attachment extension arms on with, but on mine that was all that was used to hold everything on with.  Also, it looks like that big spring cotter would go in the bigger of the two holes, but on mine the bigger hole seems to be in back, not in the front. 

 

I believe what is shown in the parts manual is correct.  .....First the wheel, then a flat washer, then a 1/4" x 1-1/2" cotter pin to retain the wheel.

 

The large hairpin clip was usually used to hold the attachment extension arms onto the axle. 

 

If your front rims have been replaced, they may or may not be the same width as the original rims, so that would affect the hole locations. 


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#49 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 09:20 AM

I believe what is shown in the parts manual is correct.  .....First the wheel, then a flat washer, then a 1/4" x 1-1/2" cotter pin to retain the wheel.

 

The large hairpin clip was usually used to hold the attachment extension arms onto the axle. 

 

If your front rims have been replaced, they may or may not be the same width as the original rims, so that would affect the hole locations. 

 

 

:ditto:

 

Washer goes first, then large hairpin clip to hold the wheel in place, then the smaller outer hole holds the attachment arms on....



#50 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 10:25 AM

Washer goes first, then large hairpin clip to hold the wheel in place, then the smaller outer hole holds the attachment arms on....

 

That sounds backwards...  At least from what Bruce had said...



#51 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 10:30 AM

....

Attached Thumbnails

  • axle 002.JPG

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#52 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 10:59 AM

Wow, that is a pretty big looking cotter pin!



#53 framesteer OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2013 - 12:14 PM

I happen to have a NOS EK-10 Wheel Spindle Assembly 1715259.  The pictures attached show the axle spindle.  The dimensions of the spindle and holes are as follows:

 

From the spindle support to the first hole centerline - 3.81".  I can slip a 17/64" drill in this hole, so it will accept a 1/4" x 1.5" cotter pin  1104231.  This cotter pin holds the wheel assembly and washers on to the spindle.

 

From the spindle support to the second hole centerline - 4.43".  I can slip a 9/64" drill in this hole, so it will accept the 1/8" spring pin 1703011 (this part is shown in the attachment parts catalogs).  This spring pin holds the attachment mounting pivot arms onto the spindle.  There are no washers shown on parts catalogs or mentioned in the attachment setup instructions that would go between the two holes in the spindle - just the attachment mounting pivot arm 1718693.

 

From the spindle support to the end of the spindle - 4.68".  The spindle diameter is 1".


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#54 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2013 - 12:18 AM

Thanks anyways for the offer, Framesteer, but I think I've got it all sorted now.  Seems I DO have all of the proper holes in the front axles for all sorts of cotter pins and hitch pins (I guess that is the proper Hardware Store term for what I was calling "spring cotters", which I'm assuming might actually be something else entirely?).  It seems that the smaller holes I was worried went missing (and how exactly do you end up losing something that is not even there, since a hole is actually the absense of anything being there in the first place?  Try wrapping your head around that one...) are indeed there after all!  It is just years of built-up old grease and dirt and grime had covered them all up.  I tried to clean up all of the old grease off of the axles with some more "Awesome" cleaner and paper towels, but the holes still eluded me even after the axles looked all nice and clean and shiny.  But, upon closer inspection and after poking around a bit with a small nail, I managed to find them after all and clean them out.  I also went to the Hardware Store and on Bruce's advice, bought two 1/4" x 1 3/4" cotter pins to hold the front wheels on properly.  They are rather BIG cotter pins and as such cost a pretty penny as well.  (Actually, it was several HUNDRED pennies, but...)  Each stupid cotter pin set me back $1.19...  on top of the $1.35 or so each that I had to pay for two new flat washers as well to go behind the cotter pins.  I thought I recalled at some point or another loose hardware being relatively inexpensive?  Now it would cost you more just in the cost of the hardware alone to replace every nut, bolt, and screw holding a tractor together than it would be to just buy a new tractor already assembled, it's ridiculous!

 

In any event, I managed to remember to bring my jack over today and got the new tires mounted on the Estate Keeper this afternoon.  I even managed to spin the free wheel hub without the handle so that I could push the Estate Keeper around once I had put the new shoes on her.  It looks MUCH better now even with just the new wheels on it and nothing else really having been done to it yet!  Plus, with the free wheel hub disengaged, it rolls soooo nicely now I can easily move it around the garage with no problems!  I remember how hard I had to fight with it just to pull it off of the trailer with the hub locked and all the tires being flat.  It is like night and day now moving it around; I can move it with one finger practically!

 

Here are the photos from putting the wheels on it today.  First up though, the pictures of the front axles after cleaning them up and finding the holes:

 

EK-10Wheels_14.jpg

 

EK-10Wheels_15.jpg

 

 

The left rear hub in free wheel mode:

 

EK-10Wheels_16.jpg

 

EK-10Wheels_17.jpg

 

 

The new tires and wheels mounted on the EK-10:

 

EK-10Wheels_18.jpg

 

EK-10Wheels_19.jpg

 

EK-10Wheels_20.jpg

 

 

Close-up of the mounting of the front wheels.  This should be the correct way to hold them on:

 

EK-10Wheels_21.jpg

 

EK-10Wheels_22.jpg

 

 

I guess I will need a much smaller hitch pin to go in this hole than the one that was used to hold everything together by the previous owner (PO):

 

EK-10Wheels_23.jpg

 

 

 

And now, a few random pictures I took of the underside of the Estate Keeper.  It appears some cables and wiring look a bit off for my liking, but I could be wrong?  Is that wire going through the two small pulleys there the brake/clutch cable?  Is the wire going over the top of that the throttle cable?  I notice that the ignition wires run awfully close to that PTO shaft, which I'd imagine isn't good when that thing is turning at a few thousand RPMs?  I also see some of the wires at least have been replaced with "Submersible Pump Cable", which I'm assuming isn't stock...  but may actually be better than stock wires as they are waterproof.  hmmmm...

 

EK-10-01072013_14.jpg

 

EK-10-01072013_16.jpg

 

 

I just don't get why the underside of this EK-10 is so filthy! Did someone go mud-bogging with it or something?  Is that just normal dirt and grime and grass clipping build-up from 40-some-odd years of use without ever being cleaned?  Did a really big dog drag this thing into the backyard and bury it in a hole somewhere? 

 

EK-10-01072013_15.jpg

 

EK-10-01072013_17.jpg

 

 

Well, I made another minor step forward today at least, but it is still an important one as now I can roll it around at least to work on it.  Still need that Starter/Generator adjusting strap so I can get that mounted back on the engine so I can try turning it over to see how the engine is.  One thing that does bother me about it is that I checked the dipstick on the engine and there is like NO oil in it at all.  (Well, very, very little at least appears on the end of the dipstick...)  That could mean that the engine has an oil leak in it or that it was burning oil badly the last time it was run and it had run low on oil...  It also could just be that the PO drained the oil out of it for storage or something at the end of a season?  Who knows...  But I should definitely throw at least some 10W30 or something in it before I try to crank it at all to be safe.


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#55 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2013 - 06:54 AM

Looks good with those new wheels!

 

From what I can see the wires and cables are all in their correct place.

Its making me nervous that there's no oil in the engine though.....


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#56 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2013 - 12:11 PM

From what I can see the wires and cables are all in their correct place.

 

So, those electrical wires are supposed to be dangling there next to the PTO shaft?  I would have thought maybe they originally were supposed to run up where the throttle cables are on top of those two small pulleys that route and keep tension on the clutch/brake cable as the tractor steers...



#57 1967bolens collector OFFLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2013 - 07:04 PM

that air cleaner elbow looks like its off a tube frame if it is the hood wont close.. i have the right one but i remember brian was looking for one so is he dont need it i can make a deal with you on it.. there super hard to find because they were made just for the EK, there bent back to clear the hood
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#58 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2013 - 10:56 AM

that air cleaner elbow looks like its off a tube frame if it is the hood wont close... there super hard to find because they were made just for the EK, there bent back to clear the hood

 

I'm not really sure to be honest. I recall when I first got the EK-10 and posted pics of it Brian had mentioned that it had the correct air filter elbow on it, which was good because they are hard to find for the same reason you mentioned.  However, it did seem like the hood wouldn't clear it when I tried opening it, despite the hood hinges being broken.  It was easy enough though since you could just pull the hood straight off since the rear hinge is broken.  If I got a good hood for it though or the one I have fixed, it does seem like it would be an issue.  But I'm confused now because I got one person saying that I already have the correct elbow and another saying that I don't....  :anyone:


Edited by MailmAn, January 18, 2013 - 10:57 AM.


#59 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2013 - 07:13 PM

Sorry I goofed!

You got one off a Tubeframe......


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#60 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2013 - 07:14 PM

So, those electrical wires are supposed to be dangling there next to the PTO shaft?  I would have thought maybe they originally were supposed to run up where the throttle cables are on top of those two small pulleys that route and keep tension on the clutch/brake cable as the tractor steers...

 

 

All mine had the wiring dangling like that when I got them... You may want to use a zip tie to snug up the loose wire if need be....


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Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: bolens, ek-10, estate keeper, 1969, tra-10d, restoration, 931-02

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