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Ff 20 Repairs

sears ff20 axle seals hydro fan

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#16 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2012 - 08:54 AM

This all looks OEM, Alan. There is a small hex shaped dodad on the canister. I'm thinking that's the pressure relief/vent. Without pulling the seat pan back off, I can't get to it. It's full of fluid right now. I am not seeing anymore signs of leakage anywhere, But I really haven't worked it hard yet, either. Kind of hard to tell until I get some more of the crud off. You can tell it hasn't had a good cleaning in years. If it warms back up some after this storm, I'll look into it a bit more. The seat pan is easy to take off, 4 bolts/nuts and 4 screws. Maybe 3 minutes tops to pull it. Then 4 more bolts to get to the canister. Guess I need the camera out there the next time I pull it. If things go good today, I might get back in there.
I'm more worried about the charging system right now. That's what I want to check out closer today.

#17 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2012 - 09:16 AM

The vent may not be the main issue on adding fluid. On the JD's even with the vent it's a slow job to get the fluid into them. It may be venting well enough to keep any significant pressure from build up. I found out mine was blocked by opening the plug to check fluid level after running the tractor. Fluid gushed out about 6" high from the opening. I knew something was wrong at that point. The gauge for fluid level was missing and I think the PO had filled it to the top. If the filler port is accessible you could open it after shut down when it it is hot and if no pressure is released then it's venting OK.

#18 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2012 - 10:15 AM

I just got a call from Messicks where I got the fan. They had messed up my order and only sent 1 fan when I ordered 2. They needed info to charge the 2nd fan, but there will be no shipping on it. Mighty nice of them to call today and straighten the order out.



#19 Littledeere ONLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2012 - 10:19 AM

Looks like your getting along good, Boy your wheels are rough I should know what these are like after a little bit should be much better than that  


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#20 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2012 - 11:35 AM

Looks like your getting along good, Boy your wheels are rough I should know what these are like after a little bit should be much better than that  

 

I still wants the parts, Kenny! This fan is not correct, but it is working at the moment.



#21 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2012 - 04:37 PM

Something I have forgotten to add is the hour meter is not hooked up. It shows 1315 hours. After talking to Kenny (Littledeere), I may have a different engine in this than factory. I do not have a PTO clutch on it and the shaft is an 1-7/16". Anybody have a CHEAP clutch off a JD 420 they wish to part with?



#22 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2013 - 06:36 AM

While checking things over, I noticed the connectors for the regulator/rectifier were in sad shape. I ordered some new ones and have them in hand. Once the weather cooperates, I will put these on and see if the amp gauge stabilizes. Right now, it is all over the place. I have lots I want to do with this tractor and lots of pics will be taken. Hope to update this thread soon.



#23 stripmine OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2013 - 11:49 AM

Went out a pulled the back tires. Started on the right side pulling the hub off. Had a 3-jaw puller on it and was getting worried about putting any more pressure on the hub (it's aluminum). I had swatted the puller a few times. Found a long bar and swatted the back side a few times. Put a bit more pressure on it. Sat back to figure the next move when POP! Off it came. Used some Emory cloth to clean the axle shat. Took a bit to get the old seal out, but got it. Tapped the new one in place. Put the hub back on. Went to the other side and started getting the puller on. Looked at the seal there and it is brand new, so I left it. Seals are good to go.
attachicon.gifImage018.jpg attachicon.gifImage021.jpg
attachicon.gifImage022.jpg attachicon.gifImage023.jpg
attachicon.gifImage025.jpg
Now the wheels. That's another story.
attachicon.gifImage020.jpg attachicon.gifImage024.jpg
The parts I circled are where they put gray tape inside the wheels to keep the tubes in. NOT good. Hopefully I'll have some better ones before warmer weather arrives.

 

KennyP


I was going to throw these on Ebay for $125.00 ( hoping to get $100 after fees).  If you want them for $100 bucks  ( plus shipping from Cincinnati ) let me know.  They came off an FF/24 that I bought for parts.

Let me know.

 

Dave

 

 

DSCF1501_zpse16acd98.jpg

 

DSCF1500_zpsf76052ae.jpg


DSCF1499_zps4f26f3a1.jpg

 

 

 

By the way, the Little Canister is OEM. seen here above the right end of the axle.

DSCF1482_zpsb903f5cc.jpg

 

 

DSCF1483_zps4305aa6f.jpg


Edited by stripmine, January 02, 2013 - 12:06 PM.

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#24 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2013 - 01:07 PM

Those wheels look nice! I'll send you a PM here shortly!


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#25 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2013 - 03:45 PM

I was able to work on the connections for a bit this afternoon. My toes feel nearly frozen, but I now have a good charging system. It is bringing the battery to 14.37 volts w/ a wide open throttle. While I was at it, I hooked up the hour meter. It's working great too.

Image028.jpg

Image029.jpg

 

The first pic is what was there. I cut out the butt connectors and put the new ends at that connection. The DC wire connector wasn't as bad as I thought, just stretched out so it wasn't making a good connection. I will go for a different amp gauge, as this one is still not that good. But it may not have been working for a while either.



#26 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2013 - 04:18 PM

Kenny that wiring looks pretty typical of what I've seen on all the older GT's I've got. Going over all the wiring and switches isn't that time consuming or expensive and will pay off in reliability later on. 


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#27 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2013 - 04:39 PM

I wish it were warmer so I could do more. One reason I cut out the butt connectors is because they had bare wire sticking out the ends. I had enough wire to do that and make things look a bit better cosmetically. This tractor has been rewired. I will have to go through the starter before too long, it is rather noisy. But it starts real easy other than the first cold start. I can't wait to take it apart and get things cleaned up.



#28 UncleWillie OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2013 - 05:07 PM

Glad to see you are taking good care of my tractor. :D



#29 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2013 - 05:07 PM

The UPS man was kind to me today. I now have 2 'new' back rims and a few other pieces for the FF. I plan to clean the wheels and paint the inside (when weather permits) so they will be ready when I go for it. :dancingbanana: Right now, the trailer is #1 on the list.


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#30 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2013 - 02:48 AM

Kenny since you working on it,I have a suggestion.

 

The Jack-shaft for the lift on these have a tendency to seize fast to the shaft.They're isn't a grease Zerk on it either.After a while they will start to stick pretty bad and limit your lift height for the deck and plow.

 

It's fairly simple to get to it from the bottom side but alot less of a pain in the butt to just take the rear fenders off so you can see all of the moving parts.I had to fix this on my neighbors FF24.Ended up heating it with the big torch until it cooked all of the crud out.Then I sprayed about 1/2 a can of PB blaster on it and worked all the leftover chunkies out.

 

I drilled a 1/4" hole in the top of the shaft and inserted a self tapping grease zerk and pumped it till grease came out both sides.It moves super easy now with no more binding and sticking.   


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