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Ff 20 Repairs

sears ff20 axle seals hydro fan

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#1 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2012 - 07:40 AM

I have the axle seals in hand for the FF20. The new fan should be here tomorrow. Hope it is going to fit! Now to figure out how I want to do all this. I will either have to move the engine forward some or drop the rear end for the fan replacement. Guess it depends on whether I can get the drive shaft off the hydro. I have the set screws loosened already, just hope the shaft hasn't 'grown' into the hub. Can't apply a lot of heat, but may be able to get some in there.
On the axle seals, I will probably have to drain the rear again. And hope the axle hubs come off easily.
Then there is the weather. May be mid morning before I can venture out to start all this.
I'll try to take lots of pics. I'm afraid to look to hard at the inside of the wheels, I'm seeing some issues there. Guess I'll find out how bad when I get them off. Wish me luck folks!

 

Edit: Seal # is 788049



#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2012 - 07:44 AM

Good luck Kenny, hope everything fits and no further issues found.

Are the wheels loaded?
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#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2012 - 07:57 AM

Good luck Kenny, hope everything fits and no further issues found.

Are the wheels loaded?

They have tubes in them. Don't know if they are loaded or not! The left has major rust holes through the rim. Can't tell how bad till I pull the wheels, but either 'new wheels' or find a donor wheel to cut 'new insides' for these. I'll have pics tomorrow for sure. I am in PM contact with a possible parts supplier, so it's just a matter of how much the wheels would be including shipping. They hold air right now, but I want the repair parts in hand for warmer weather.

#4 jms180 ONLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2012 - 08:11 AM

Hope everything goes well with repairs and weather warms some.
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#5 Guest_rat88_*

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Posted December 21, 2012 - 10:07 AM

Bobs L&G has some FF parts tractors. He might have a set of wheels. The 6 bolt 12"r's are harder to find
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#6 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2012 - 10:19 AM

The hydro shaft is made of some really good stuff it won't grow much, but the yoke..... make sure there isn't any bolt holding it on in the middle of the yoke! Probably not, but check anyways. It can be tapped off with out any issues, but don't POUND it as it could ding up the inside of the bushing and housing. ( has a cross pin inside so it ain't coming out of the pump!!)
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#7 JDBrian ONLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2012 - 12:01 PM

Kenny, I find a heat gun is useful for warming up parts when you need to watch out for over heating. The temp rises slowly. If you have the set screws out and a bit of penetrating oil in there it is probably going to come off without any issues. Shaft drive is a nice feature on a tractor but it does tend to be expensive when it needs repairs and is just not as easy to deal with as a belt.
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#8 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2012 - 04:11 PM

Keith, there are just the 2 set screws at the pump. I'm hoping I can get the shaft loose from the engine (4 bolts), then I'll have room for the shaft to slide off the pump. Won't know 'till I get into it.

#9 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2012 - 01:32 PM

Went out a pulled the back tires. Started on the right side pulling the hub off. Had a 3-jaw puller on it and was getting worried about putting any more pressure on the hub (it's aluminum). I had swatted the puller a few times. Found a long bar and swatted the back side a few times. Put a bit more pressure on it. Sat back to figure the next move when POP! Off it came. Used some Emory cloth to clean the axle shat. Took a bit to get the old seal out, but got it. Tapped the new one in place. Put the hub back on. Went to the other side and started getting the puller on. Looked at the seal there and it is brand new, so I left it. Seals are good to go.
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Now the wheels. That's another story.
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The parts I circled are where they put gray tape inside the wheels to keep the tubes in. NOT good. Hopefully I'll have some better ones before warmer weather arrives.

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#10 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2012 - 02:54 PM

O My Goodness, why would they do that?

They must not have had any plans on using it, that's for sure.

Kenny, is the rest of the rim solid? I mean are they showing signs of this everywhere? I bet that's CaCl related and they were filled at one time.

I forget, what kind of welder do you have? Mig or stick?
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#11 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2012 - 05:11 PM

O My Goodness, why would they do that?

They must not have had any plans on using it, that's for sure.

Kenny, it the rest of the rim solid? I mean are they showing signs of this everywhere? I bet that's CaCl related and they were filled at one time.

I forget, what kind of welder do you have? Mig or stick?

I have both, but use the mig the most. If I could get one good rim, I could split it and use the pieces to replace the inside portion of these. Like I widened the rims on Big Bertha! The rest of the rims are in good shape. No telling what they look like inside though,
The FF now has a fan for the pump. It was not an exact fit, but I made it work.
Image026.jpg
Come spring, this will be taken apart and issues will be fixed and new paint will go on. It deserves that.
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#12 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2012 - 06:27 AM

Since yesterday was so nice out, I did a few more things to the FF. It needed a bit more fluid added. The only way to that is to pull the fender pan and fuel tank as the vent hose has to come off for the air to get out. I am not sure what the canister is for that the vent hose hooks to, but is doesn't let the air out and fluid won't go in with it hooked up. I should have taken pics, but had a lot to do besides work on this.
Upon taking the fuel tank out, I noticed the fuel line was in need of replacement, so off to O'Reilly's I went. Got 7' of 1/4" fuel line, used about 5' here. While I had things apart, I adjusted the brake. It stops real good now.
I have learned that there is no down pressure for the front blade. It uses the mower deck lift which has a slotted lift arm to float. I need to look into all the lift linkages and see how things work. The lift cylinder is located right at the bottom of the frame under the tunnel cover. This is all things I will get into when I take it down for paint.
I don't think it is charging. I know it is putting out AC voltage, but not much DC. Probably the rectifier. But, I'll check it out better today. The wire connector doesn't look real good for the DC output anyway.

#13 JDBrian ONLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2012 - 06:39 AM

Sounds like you had a productive day. Bad connections will prevent your charging circuit from working. Often the wiring and connectors are in bad shape after 30 yrs of neglect. It seems odd that you have to disassemble the tractor to add fluid. The can is probably a breather and may have some sort of pressure relief valve to vent as pressure builds but typically you don't want any pressure in the case. It could be plugged or broken. On the JD's they use a cheap plastic fuel filter with a 1/16" hole drilled into the outer case to vent the hydro. You may want to consider using something similar, as it's cheap and easy to get. If your hydro isn't venting it will force fluid out the weakest seals.



#14 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2012 - 06:52 AM

I need to figure that out for sure, Brian! That may be a good question to ask the guys over at the FF forum. It's a real pain to get to the hose. No more than I plan to use it right now, I have time to research the canister.

Edit: I just looked at the parts break down. This is called an expansion chamber. There is supposed to be a breather vent, it may be stuck closed.

Edited by KennyP, December 24, 2012 - 06:57 AM.
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#15 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2012 - 07:53 AM

Kenny, on my Craftsmans, the end of the hose is a plug that works like a breather. Is your plug OEM or did someone lose it and replace it with something else?





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