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Lift Motor Decisions


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#1 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2012 - 02:36 AM

Ok gents, this will become an interesting topic among us Elec Trak guys, but not to say no one else isn't welcome to pitch in (I encourage opinions). I am thinking about the stock GE Elec Trak front lift motor, and how to power it differently. It is 12 volts DC and they designers have it pulling off the battery bank unevenly. I want to change this. There are about six solutions, each one more complicated than the next, and the pricing varys.

Option 1: Factory setup. Most go this route.

Option 2: Replace factory battery charger with a 12 volt battery. Easy plan for those not using factory charger, but rather an off board charger.

Option 3: Buy 36 volt DC to 12 volt DC converter. This option intrigues me as these fairly compact converters are available for golf carts, and for a cheap one rated for 15 amps of 12v output can be had for around $35. For one with an output of 30 amps (the fused rating on the lift motor) it is about $100. So this option is fairly easy, but gets expensive quick if more than 15 amps is needed, as these cheap converters are still made in other countries. I can't test how many amps the stock motor pulls (with my new meter) raising the mower deck all the way as the mower deck on mine is both raised and supporting the front of the dismantled tractor.

Option 4: Change out stock lift motor assembly with custom 36 volt lift motor system. This option is pretty challenging, but had been done in the past according to Sparky, and those units were recalled (go figure).

Option 5: Create an entirely new lift system utilizing a 36 volt actuator. This option weighs heavy on my mind, but not sure about range of motion. Not to mention the design would work fine on the blade, but interfere with the mower.

Option 6: Check self into insane asylum. This option is the only one left if all others are total failures...

Ok guys, time to hash this all out and see what everyone thinks, or likes. As this has been driving me crazy, and I don't know the best solution yet. My scenario is based on these three variables. I don't want to pull off my battery pack unevenly. My on board charger is being replaced with a modern on board charger (extra battery option not possible). And I do plan to find a solution better than Option 6 lol.

Edited by wvbuzzmaster, December 18, 2012 - 02:37 AM.


#2 chris m ONLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2012 - 03:27 AM

I like option 3 and 5 so far. ashame you don't want to go with option 6! It sure gets lonely in this place :loosing_it:
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#3 Per OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2012 - 04:51 AM

Hi,
there is only one solution among the options you have listet and that is option 3. But if your motor is rated 30 amp the converter MUST have an output of minimum 30 amp.

There is also option 7: Make it electric-hydraulic as you know from these electric pallet trucks.
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#4 Farmlife OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2012 - 05:10 AM

I would go with #6 Case. You play with electricity....it only fits....lol
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#5 Sparky OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2012 - 07:26 AM

Just to confuse Casey ( aint it fun ? ) , I had an idea of a stand alone racing type battery 16 volt . But it would have to be slim line or compact . It would do the job as long as it was never used in deep cycle application . More complexity than the Elec-Traks left the factory with however the plant people said their own wish list was shelved . Go Casey .
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#6 New.Canadian.DB.Owner ONLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2012 - 09:33 AM

Or, you could rig 3 12v battery in series with a switching mechanism that allows you to power the lift off of any one of the three. You'd need a floating ground on the lift motor. If it is a frame ground item, you could put a 24v battery is series with you 12v battery.
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#7 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2012 - 09:52 AM

Go with the converter. Get one that is as large as the fuse size, the lift motor can't pull any more than the fuse which protects it. You will probably spend the least amount of money this way as well.
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#8 Lmiller3358 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2012 - 10:23 AM

If it were me I'd vote on # 6, I need a vaction !!!
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#9 Lmiller3358 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2012 - 10:24 AM

See, I couldn't spell Vacation !!!!

#10 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2012 - 11:27 AM

I'd stay stock or go with a 36volt motor system. Inverters are likely to be troublesome unless they are way over rated due to high peak currents drawn by the motor under heavy loads. I'm not sure how efficient these cheap inverters are. Any heat produced in the conversion would be wasted battery power.
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#11 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2012 - 02:35 PM

I agree on heat equaling waste... I might have to find a way to add an extra 12 volt since my head can't figure out anything else. Unless a proposed prospect comes together or someone has a really clever idea here to rework something I will probably end up adding another battery somehow...

#12 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2012 - 05:39 PM

Use a lift motor from a New Idea tractor, there 36volts and mount under the frame to the front bumper.
Similar to GE style except they don't occupy any space in the front battery box.
EHT200 030.JPG EHT200 038.JPG EHT200 044.JPG
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#13 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2012 - 06:09 PM

Casey, what is the motor diameter on the OEM lift? The one Doug shos looks a lot like the old Birdview satellite motors and they were 36v. The end of the armature was a twisted spline that meshed with the gear if my memory hasn't failed me.
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#14 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2012 - 06:16 PM

Couple more pic of it.
EHT200 028.JPG EHT200 029.JPG
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#15 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2012 - 06:32 PM

I guess it looks larger in that photo. Still, it might be something to watch for casey.

The bird view dishes used a solid spun or formed perf dish, all one piece and were eithe 10 or 12 foot across.

I think they were all mounted on a 8" pipe.

Posted Image
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