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Looks Like I Will Have Heat This Winter!


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#16 daytime dave OFFLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2012 - 09:35 AM

Good luck with the woodstove Ryan. It looks like a decent unit. I remember stoves like that in a camp we used as a teenager.

#17 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2012 - 10:36 AM

Nice stove for your garage.
Just be careful with the stove burning and GT fuel in the garage, as well as oil and paint, and...........
I don't want anyone to loose their collection! :boo_hoo:

#18 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2012 - 02:01 PM

Yes, those are concerns of mine also. But, I have an extra tool box out of a pickup that I plan to put all of the flammable stuff in.

#19 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2012 - 02:28 PM

Here are better pictures of the stove, as promised. Still not great photos.
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Posted Image

After I picked it up, I cleaned out all of the ash. This morning, I had the stove taken apart before I had even noticed! Each corner had a piece of threaded rod with a cap nut on top and another normal nut on the bottom. When I took them out everything came apart. Then, I started to wire brush everything and clean it up. Now, before you guys get carpotunnel from lecturing me... I WAS wearing a respirator!

I tried to take the door off of the hinges, the top pin came out easily, the bottom one did not. I did not want to break the brittle cast iron so I sprayed it with penetrating oil. I went onto cleaning some other parts while it soaked; after an hour I tried it again. This time, it broke the hinge. By looking at it you can see the color difference. I think that I cracked it the first time, when I sprayed it the oil soaked into the crack. When I tried it again I finished it off, and that is why there are color differences. I think I will just try to fix it up with some JB weld.
Posted Image

I have two legs, the bottom, one side, the back, the front (minus the door) and another part that goes inside cleaned. I still have to do the door, the top, and the other side.

#20 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2012 - 02:38 PM

Ryan I can ask my dad what he is going to do with his stove. Maybe I could just get parts off it for you. I went out and looked at it last night and it is the exact same model as yours.

#21 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2012 - 02:41 PM

Ryan I can ask my dad what he is going to do with his stove. Maybe I could just get parts off it for you. I went out and looked at it last night and it is the exact same model as yours.


Chris, thank you ever so much! Although, I would not want to take parts from your stove if I can fix this hinge, which I think I can.

#22 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2012 - 03:33 PM

I'll just ask him just in case you need a part.I would have asked already but he is on a plane flying back from Florida right now :D

#23 HydroHarold OFFLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2012 - 09:31 PM

Wow, an Atlantic 224, just like the one I bought new in 1980 from a dealer in Middletown, NY! The "224" originally in the "un-airtight" days meant the stove had 224lbs of cast iron in it. I left the legs off, set it on 4 bricks and installed it into a home made steel smoke shelf adapter in my fireplace. We were all scrambling for wood stove information and methods in those days as everybody that once burned wood and knew how to do it right had long since had their coal/wood "octopus" converted to oil.

There were also lots of gimmicks you could buy to control draft and not have to ride the air damper of stoves. (Most in "Mother Earth News") One that I tried had a "flapper" with an adjustable weight that installed on the draft intake control center screw. You would screw the weight in or out to balance the flapper against the draft and it would "control" the burn. It did not control the creosote production as the stove ran in shut down mode half the time as long as the flame lasted.

It was a great stove though and heated the first floor of my cape style house pretty well... after we figured out the system of fans that we used to move air throughout the house... The molds that the sections of this stove were made from were originally made for an un-air tight design and the rage at the time was total "air tight" as per the advertising brochures of most stoves then. They just sealed this stove up with furnace cement in the joints and it used to shed some during the season as the heat cycles loosened it. It comes apart fairly easy (use Neverseize on fasteners for reassembly) to reseal. You'll know when it has too many leaks as it won't respond to the rotary draft control on the door and will begin to run hot.

As with ALL CAST IRON STOVES, make sure you keep the thing from "glowing", these ain't the thickest iron and unlike steel they don't want to be really hot. AND, if you have an insurance company that will let you run a wood/coal stove in your garage please let me know which on it is. My company will send a hit man to the house if they find out I did that.

Edited by HydroHarold, December 16, 2012 - 09:32 PM.

  • marlboro180 said thank you

#24 marlboro180 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2012 - 11:02 PM

Ryan, sorry to say, but I just gotta vote down the JB Weld fix on that hinge, unless you can guarntee' it never seeing above 450 degrees....which I doubt :-(

On second look , it seems to have been repaired before, maybe that is why the thing sat in the corner, and no one around with any nickle rod to fix it decently.....

#25 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 17, 2012 - 09:48 PM

Ryan, sorry to say, but I just gotta vote down the JB Weld fix on that hinge, unless you can guarntee' it never seeing above 450 degrees....which I doubt :-(

On second look , it seems to have been repaired before, maybe that is why the thing sat in the corner, and no one around with any nickle rod to fix it decently.....


Ah, bummer... I wish I saw this post before! I don't know how I missed it, I must have overlooked a notification.

The bolts that hold the two sides together stick out past anything else on the backside. When I was brushing it up, I pushed on it in a way that it did not like and I broke the three tabs that hold the two pieces for the side.

I took a picture of only one tab, a picture of each was not necessary.
Posted Image

Just before I saw your post, I put some JB on the entire seam. Also, after I had it all put on I saw that it was not even needed, as the top and bottom pieces would hold them together. I will have to wait for it to dry, then take it off when I can just chip at it.

The problem with the broken tabs can be gone around, but I still have to figure out that hinge. I should have just left it together... :wallbanging: :wallbanging: :wallbanging:

#26 marlboro180 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 17, 2012 - 10:22 PM

Naw, leaving it alone is not a good idea. This failure is just a way of showing you how to go along the way of fixing things more better ... LOL

#27 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 17, 2012 - 10:46 PM

Why not? I know it is not as good as being bolted. But, I really don't see a need for the bolts anyway. They overlap and even without bolts the joint will still seal better then where the corners meet. Don't get me wrong, I would still rather fix it.

#28 marlboro180 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 17, 2012 - 10:52 PM

I guess I am not understanding the function of these bolts .

Edited by marlboro180, December 17, 2012 - 10:52 PM.


#29 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 17, 2012 - 10:56 PM

I will take pictures tomorrow to better explain it.
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#30 HydroHarold OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2012 - 12:41 AM

I'm raising my hand to suggest large "fender washers" overlapping the tab/tab bolt. You can shape them with a fire wrench to the shape of the iron (not on the stove, on an anvil). For the door, if I'm seeing the breakage right, how about a couple eye bolts for hinges? 1 on the door riding inside 2 coming out the front of the stove. Mighty "adjustable" for a seal with the right bolts. As these stoves were constructed as "re-makes", I don't think they had the quality cast iron of the original ones.

JB Weld will be futile except to hold parts in alignment for better repairs, my stove used to see 450º+ normally at certain points of the burn run with the intake rotated only open 1/8th of an inch.




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