Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

My 1977 2414 Repower And Restore Thread

k361 axle clutch throwout bearing flywheel

  • Please log in to reply
33 replies to this topic

#16 Alc ONLINE  

Alc

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1094
  • 5,458 Thanks
  • 6,627 posts
  • Location: Bangor Pa

Posted December 15, 2012 - 02:32 PM

Yea maybe someone missed welding it , another member might be able to give more info on how that axle is fastened , by the way those pictures where from a short hood 1612 , the axle on that one had a bushing and the one on the 2418 had needle bearings which were destroyed when I took that one apart , guess from using the extra weight of the loader , ,Al

#17 farmer OFFLINE  

farmer
  • Member
  • GTt Junior
  • Member No: 12595
  • 9 Thanks
  • 94 posts
  • Location: Washington va

Posted December 15, 2012 - 07:27 PM

Looks like you are off to a fast start. When you get the tractor done Tuck will keep it and any other tractors you have herded in the garage for you.


Tuck loves tractors. He'll ride in a tractor all day long during hay season and only get out when I do.

Mine has roller bearings in it. It looks like three sets of bearings but I'm not sure. They're tight and been greased like they should. Grease was all over the frame but it looks like this nut was never welded. Will have my buddy weld it in a week or so. I have a mig welder but doubt my skills will allow it to hold

#18 farmer OFFLINE  

farmer
  • Member
  • GTt Junior
  • Member No: 12595
  • 9 Thanks
  • 94 posts
  • Location: Washington va

Posted December 15, 2012 - 09:21 PM

As far as the clutch flywheel is concerned, DON'T USE THE PORTA POWER! More than likely you will just go through the engine block. I use my brothers method and it seems to be the best system yet. I take 4 wedges (the kind you use for splitting wood). I position one on each side of the flywheel between the flywheel and engine block with the point straight up. Next I take the other two wedges and place then point down between the flywheel and the other wedge. Then I start to tap on the top wedges. A few times on one, then a few times on the other and keep it up until the flywheel comes loose. I've done this about three times and it seems to be a never fail system. It distribute the force on the block evenly and greatly reduces the chance of breaking it. So, basically you have two wedges on each side of the shaft, one point up and one point down sliding against the other one to basically expand the material and force the flywheel to move.

Do you only have set screws in one hole or two? Sometimes there are two set screws in the same hole, one to jam the other and keep it from moving. That should take care of the flywheel problem.


The wedges worked perfectly! Mine must've not been very stuck because I was able to get it off with just two wedges on one side. Has to space it up with some inch oak fence boards as I went along. The snap ring looks brand new so I'm going to leave that alone. Other than getting the flywheel off the only thing I got accomplished was removing the dash and steering box oh and the front stub shaft for the pto. I forgot if I mentioned already but the pressure plate looks good so I'm going to reuse it.
  • David Brown said thank you

#19 Username OFFLINE  

Username

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 2568
  • 2,065 Thanks
  • 1,425 posts
  • Location: Punxsutawney,Pa

Posted December 16, 2012 - 05:16 PM

Mines looks like it was never welded. I wonder if it was forgotten to be done.


Some were welded and some were not.

#20 farmer OFFLINE  

farmer
  • Member
  • GTt Junior
  • Member No: 12595
  • 9 Thanks
  • 94 posts
  • Location: Washington va

Posted December 16, 2012 - 07:04 PM

I lied, I looked it over really well tonight and it has the slightest weld on the bottom side. I now also have the tunnel and fenders off. Going to pull it outside tomorrow and pressure wash it and start to rattle can it.

#21 bgkid2966 OFFLINE  

bgkid2966

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8254
  • 1,407 Thanks
  • 1,327 posts
  • Location: Aurora, Illinois

Posted December 16, 2012 - 09:04 PM

Looking good Farmer. I will be watching this. :watching_you: Keep up the good work!



Geno

#22 mdwoodcarver OFFLINE  

mdwoodcarver

    New Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 7329
  • 17 Thanks
  • 21 posts
  • Location: Hagerstown Md

Posted December 16, 2012 - 09:29 PM

015.jpg great info here boys,i havent had to tear into my clutch yet but i know where to get the tips for doing it !! good luck farmer itt is well worth it in the end......
  • farmer said thank you

#23 farmer OFFLINE  

farmer
  • Member
  • GTt Junior
  • Member No: 12595
  • 9 Thanks
  • 94 posts
  • Location: Washington va

Posted December 20, 2012 - 07:29 PM

015.jpg great info here boys,i havent had to tear into my clutch yet but i know where to get the tips for doing it !! good luck farmer itt is well worth it in the end......


I love the dog!





So I got my k361 sent disassembled in three boxes and I'm starting to reassemble it. I realize its missing the exhaust tube which is a little piece of pipe the fits inside the block behind the exhaust pipe. Where can I find one at? I have a guy coming next week to weld the axle nut back on and also to weld the new style brake pedals in place of the original smaller ones. The frames on jack stands and five gallon buckets getting a Chevy spray paint job right now.

#24 farmer OFFLINE  

farmer
  • Member
  • GTt Junior
  • Member No: 12595
  • 9 Thanks
  • 94 posts
  • Location: Washington va

Posted December 20, 2012 - 07:32 PM

Here's a pic of progress. Truthfully it doesn't look as good in person but I'm not gonna sweat it. I'm a terrible painter.

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_20121220_095631.jpg


#25 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

Ryan313

    PK Fanatic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7087
  • 3,239 Thanks
  • 5,159 posts
  • Location: Wallkill, NY

Posted December 21, 2012 - 03:06 PM

It is looking good since I saw it last! I don't know if you plan to or not, but it looks to me like the frame could use another coat of paint or two. IMO. If you do add more coats, make sure you read the label on the can before spraying over it. A lot of times it tells you to apply addition coats before a certain amount of time, and then after a certain amount of time. If you don't do this the paint may get orange peels.

EXAMPLE: Apply addition coats before 24 hours, or after one week.
  • Moosetales said thank you

#26 Moosetales OFFLINE  

Moosetales

    Always learning something!

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 8172
  • 1,088 Thanks
  • 1,284 posts
  • Location: Winthrop, ME

Posted December 21, 2012 - 03:37 PM

It is looking good since I saw it last! I don't know if you plan to or not, but it looks to me like the frame could use another coat of paint or two. IMO. If you do add more coats, make sure you read the label on the can before spraying over it. A lot of times it tells you to apply addition coats before a certain amount of time, and then after a certain amount of time. If you don't do this the paint may get orange peels.

EXAMPLE: Apply addition coats before 24 hours, or after one week.


This can be a very real issue.....I've run into is a few times both with additional coats or when clear coating. Glad you mentioned it.

#27 farmer OFFLINE  

farmer
  • Member
  • GTt Junior
  • Member No: 12595
  • 9 Thanks
  • 94 posts
  • Location: Washington va

Posted December 21, 2012 - 03:48 PM

I plan on more coats. Its been a few days since I last painted it. It probably is longer than the date on the can but its been to cold in the garage to paint. I feel like it wouldn't stick the best

#28 icpik OFFLINE  

icpik

    New Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 8205
  • 21 Thanks
  • 36 posts
  • Location: Central Virginia

Posted December 21, 2012 - 07:56 PM

Build a tent with the plastic and put one or two light bulbs inside. The bulbs don't have to be high wattage. Forty watts is plenty. Don't put the bulbs too close to a painted surface. The added heat will allow the paint to cure and drive off moisture. You can use the same method to warm the frame before the next coat.

Don Hayes

#29 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

glgrumpy

    Getting Out!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 8360
  • 6,661 Thanks
  • 6,476 posts
  • Location: Huntington, IN 46750 North East in State

Posted December 21, 2012 - 09:32 PM

It's usually the PICTURES that have blotchy look, and doesn't look that way when standing there looking at it. Think Digital cams pick up diff and show off changes because of shadows or ?? I've had some look like diff color with diff poses, even tho it is all one color. SO, either WE can't see it with our eyes.....OR, the camera is Lieing? Camera's Fault gets My vote! :smilewink:

#30 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

Ryan313

    PK Fanatic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7087
  • 3,239 Thanks
  • 5,159 posts
  • Location: Wallkill, NY

Posted December 21, 2012 - 09:38 PM

Build a tent with the plastic and put one or two light bulbs inside. The bulbs don't have to be high wattage. Forty watts is plenty. Don't put the bulbs too close to a painted surface. The added heat will allow the paint to cure and drive off moisture. You can use the same method to warm the frame before the next coat.

Don Hayes


Don brought up a very good point, warming the frame. Not only is the air temperature important, but just as critical is to have what you are painting be warm, as well as your paint.





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: k361, axle, clutch, throwout bearing, flywheel

Top