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My 1977 2414 Repower And Restore Thread

k361 axle clutch throwout bearing flywheel

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#1 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2012 - 08:23 PM

So i figured instead of starting a new thread every time I had a question that it was time to give my old tractor its own thread.

So I have a K361 coming next week with all the correct specs for a Power King transplant which would be the correct flat oil pan, flanged block and 1 1/8'' output shaft. It it ends up being junk then I had to pull my K321 to address many issues anyhow

1.Hydraulic pump belt, Mine broke halfway through mowing season last summer so instead of ripping it apart I added a link belt. Its worked just fine and is still in good condition but I need a couple new belts to put in it. What the correct width and length belt?

2.Flywheel, I stripped down the old girl tonight and am having trouble taking the flywheel off. I took the two allen screws out but it wont budge. Im going to get my brothers portapower the beginning of the week but isnt their a magical snap ring somewhere also? I havnt been able to find one anywhere.

3.Clutch, So I removed the engine and clutch housing as one piece so I could get to work on other things and I must say thats a lot of weight to pick on by myself but its on the floor out of the way now. The clutch is toast. Its missing quite a bit of the pad. The throwout bearing has a lot of play in it. How do I determine the condition of the pressure plate and where would I find these parts at the best price?

4.Front axle, Ever since I bought my tractor my front axle has had gobbs of play in it as far as front to back. I pulled the front axle and the bearings are tight. The bolt is tight in the axle itself and all the slop is in the frame cross member. There doesnt appear to be any bushing so I need suggestions. Do I drill it out and add a bushing of some sort? Has anyone else had this delima?

5.Repower=rewire,So if im installing this K361 what needs to be done as far as wiring? Is it just hooking up the starter and the wire to the coil? I have a rectifier(I believe) on the dash and the K361 I think has it on the shroud. Which one do I use and do I need to run any new wires?

Hopefully the K361 ends up being a good motor so I can use my 60" deck I bought this coming summer. Tomorrow Night im going to pull off the transmission tunnel because the previous owner primered it and never painted it so. Im going to paint it and check the fluids in the transmissions also. I know you guys have tons of knowledge and Im calling on all of it from you!

#2 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2012 - 08:30 PM

Here's a pic of the progress a long with my best friend, Tuck. I only have a hand full of photos of my childhood Border Collie,Ringo, so I always take as many pics with Tuck as I can.

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Edited by farmer, December 14, 2012 - 08:32 PM.

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#3 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2012 - 08:57 PM

First off, I want to say that you should not be lifting that engine by yourself. I am young to, and I know we like to feel like we can do anything, but we can't; we do have limits. I used to try and lift anything until this summer, when I started to get back pains. I know the other guys will probably frenzy and say I am to young, and don't know what a bad back is like, but... I know I have already messed myself up. And my back is not the only thing. DON"T BE A HERO! ASK FOR HELP!

1) The belt is most likely 1/2 wide, I don't know the length. You can probably find it in the manuals section.

2) I have not yet taken a flywheel off, but I know it is a common problem. Make sure that the set screws where not stacked (sometimes there are two in one hole) and a porta-power with spreader jaws is most likely your best bet. Just work your way around the flywheel.

3) I don't know what qualifies as a worn pressure plate, to be honest. But the other guys will most likely ask for a picture of it, and the three little fingers. Parts Sources

4) Are you talking about the hubs, or where the front axle pivots? I am a little confused.

5) Wiring is not my strong suit, THIS is all I can do to help.

It looks like you got a good bit of the disassembly done! I am looking forward to seeing how it comes out!
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#4 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2012 - 09:02 PM

As far as the clutch flywheel is concerned, DON'T USE THE PORTA POWER! More than likely you will just go through the engine block. I use my brothers method and it seems to be the best system yet. I take 4 wedges (the kind you use for splitting wood). I position one on each side of the flywheel between the flywheel and engine block with the point straight up. Next I take the other two wedges and place then point down between the flywheel and the other wedge. Then I start to tap on the top wedges. A few times on one, then a few times on the other and keep it up until the flywheel comes loose. I've done this about three times and it seems to be a never fail system. It distribute the force on the block evenly and greatly reduces the chance of breaking it. So, basically you have two wedges on each side of the shaft, one point up and one point down sliding against the other one to basically expand the material and force the flywheel to move.

Do you only have set screws in one hole or two? Sometimes there are two set screws in the same hole, one to jam the other and keep it from moving. That should take care of the flywheel problem.
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#5 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2012 - 09:05 PM

As far as the clutch flywheel is concerned, DON'T USE THE PORTA POWER! More than likely you will just go through the engine block...


Whoops! I would listen to Jeff here, he has experience doing it... unlike me. Disregard what I said. :D
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#6 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2012 - 09:17 PM

To cover the rest as best I can until more intel comes in:

1. Any one of the parts guys that Ryan directed you to can tell you exactly what belt you need. You already know to get two belts and tie the spare up for future use.

2. Took care of this one in my last post.

3. If it were me and I wanted to do it right, I would replace all of it. If the clutch is missing padding as you say, then the pressure plate is probably scored and you would want to replace it anyway. If there is play in the throw out bearing, it needs replaced. Look at it this way, do it right now, never tear it apart again.

4. As Ryan stated, need more info on the exact area of concern here.

5. Wiring is not my strong suit eitherbut I can offer this. If both engines have the same style of starting (like coil, condensor, rectifier, etc.) then you should be fine with using the existing ignition switch. Wire is cheap, go new and be done with it. If the ignition type is the same then you will have minimal work here. Try using the rectifier on the engine first. If it works, great, you have a spare. If not, switch to the other one.

You have the right idea, check and change the fluids in the transmissions while you are in there. Take a good close look at the gearing as well as the other end of the shifter. If the end of the shifter looks warn, weld it up and file down to fit between the rails (in the proper areas of course). It should be a round disk. I have the dimensions somewhere if you need them.
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#7 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2012 - 09:32 PM

I believe the front axle should be tight in the frame , mine had the large nut inside of the frame welded but that might not have been factory.The weld was broken so I just ran a bead there and on the axle side , Al
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#8 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2012 - 10:59 PM

farmer,

I'm new in the GT world but loving it. I won't be able to offer much in the way of mechanical advise but I can assure you I will be following your thread and cheering you on. Regarding Tuck.....nothing like a dependable friend. Hats off to you for getting your hands greasy and applying the old elbow grease.

Matthew
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#9 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2012 - 11:50 PM

Sometimes flywheels need lots of soaking with PB Blaster or other. The snap ring is in front hole center,behind the seal and pilot bearing area. It comes out AFTER the flywheel is off. It's just a Stop that hits end of crank for positioning the flywheel. But, sometimes they get mashed when flywheel moves from clutch pressures. Put in a new one while apart. Also is recommended to drill into the set screw holes carefully when putting back on crank. This makes a Divot in crank for set screw to set into and hold in place better. Don't need that on set screw over the keyway tho. Don't drill out the threads there, be careful to keep undersize big and straight in. Don't need to drill long, crank is soft and will divit easily.

One way to remove is to push it off with bolts and nuts. Loosen the Hogs Head (bellhousing) from engine to move it around and get back behind the flywheel at the pulley end. Find 1/2" or 7/16" bolts that will fit between the pulley end and the engine block. Fit a nut on that bolt first, insert and unscrew the nut making it push on the flywheel. Lots of penetrant here. Goes real slow and awkward with two wrenches in that space. Might try one on each side to push more even. When nut runs off the threads, use next longer size bolt and do again. Keep changing bolt length as needed till it pulls off or taps off with small hammer. The trick with four wedges told of here is new to me, but sounds pretty good too. Might be easier with those than the bolts. I might try that wedge trick on mine when it is time.
Ebay has many PK parts. Seller jrhaines is best prices and honest. I get many things from him and am happy. Buying stuff now even, as I type. If none shown on list, write to him and ask. He has lots of stuff. A couple ebay sellers are WAY high and that stuff Never gets sold, even over several postings.
Forgot to mention, once flywheel is off crank, polish the crank up and clean out the flywheel hole good as you can to get more of a slip-on action. OIl up the parts to do that, including the keyway.
Pressure plates don't usually go bad. The fingers can wear out on ends and springs weaken. If surface isn't torn up, should be re-usable. If rivets have ground into it, not good Also watch for worn pins and holes where the arms pivot. Sometimes the wear out. There is now a kit with springs and arms on ebay. I like to polish up surfaces with those little scotchbrite like pads in my die grinder. they clean well and do no damage. Maybe they would work in a drill, but not as fast as die grinder is. Auto stores have those.
That's it for this "book" I wrote for now, good luck!
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#10 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2012 - 06:26 AM

Thanks guys for all the advice, ideas and concerns so far. Thanks Ryan for giving me grief for something I shouldn't of done. Was truly idiotic of me and good luck with your back. I looked this am and I only had one set of set screws on the shaft and it looks like it had already been drilled but I'm glad to know about the drilling tip for when I swap motors! Its my center pivot that has the play but my nut isn't welded to the frame and after thinking about it if it'd welded back that would cure my problem. I'm glad to take it off because I want to paint everything while its off anyhow. Just going to do a quick rattle paint job to the frame and drive train parts. I might try to get someone to spray the tunnel, hood and fenders though. I'm hoping that come spring time that this guy will be like a new tractor mechanically speaking . Thanks guys!

#11 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2012 - 06:27 AM

I'll be watching this thread.
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#12 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2012 - 06:31 AM

farmer,

I'm new in the GT world but loving it. I won't be able to offer much in the way of mechanical advise but I can assure you I will be following your thread and cheering you on. Regarding Tuck.....nothing like a dependable friend. Hats off to you for getting your hands greasy and applying the old elbow grease.

Matthew


Thanks Matthew. Tuck spends every minute of the day with me on the farm. I can never really enjoy a vacation because he's not there with me and I miss him so much. It troubles me to think what life will be like without him. Thanks for cheering me on with this project.

#13 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2012 - 08:16 AM

Looks like you are off to a fast start. When you get the tractor done Tuck will keep it and any other tractors you have herded in the garage for you.

#14 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2012 - 12:41 PM

I forgot that I still have a extra Power King frame with the front axle bolt still on . I believe this was never altered , looks like the nut was welded on , you can't tell for sure if the axle side was or not but like I said on my other tractor I welded that side too, Al

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Edited by Alc, December 15, 2012 - 12:42 PM.

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#15 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2012 - 12:43 PM

I forgot that I still have a extra Power King frame with the front axle bolt still on . I believe this was never altered , looks like the nut was welded on , you can't tell for sure if the axle side was or not but like I said on my other tractor I welded that side too, Al


Mines looks like it was never welded. I wonder if it was forgotten to be done.





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