Mf12 Steering Wheelremoval
Posted December 11, 2012 - 08:40 PM
Posted December 11, 2012 - 08:55 PM
Welcome back. I don't have any specific information for you. Now that the steering wheel is broken, can you apply heat and try to break the rust bond that way? I've seen enough on here to know that this is a fairly common problem when trying to repair these. I've also gotten the impression that you need to be careful about trying to beat on the shaft,
Posted December 11, 2012 - 08:57 PM
The only way I have ever had any luck with a stuck one is months of steady soaking with PB Blaster, AeroKroil, Gibbs, etc and then remove nut, wire brush the shaft as much as you can, put nut on with a washer under it.
Tighten nut as much as you can (yes I said tighten) then whack it one with a piece of pipe on the nut. (do not hit the end of the shaft.) This seemed to jar the rust a little. Dad's suggestion.
Take nut off to one thread past flush and do the method you described above.
- Sawdust said thank you
Posted December 11, 2012 - 09:08 PM
On my MF12 Hydro I went in and cut a slit in the steering wheel hub, I used a die grinder with a cutting disk. I have seen that there were different wheels on them but they all fit, it was just the design of the wheel was different. I think the difference depended on the year of the tractor. If you go to AGCO parts book you can search "12 tractor" or "10 tractor" so you can look at the exploded parts diagrams to see what was used on them.
I found a nice one on Ebay, but one of our site sponsors may have something as well.
- JDBrian said thank you
Posted December 11, 2012 - 09:53 PM
Posted December 11, 2012 - 09:56 PM
Posted December 12, 2012 - 05:09 AM
Edited by mjodrey, December 12, 2012 - 05:50 AM.
Posted December 12, 2012 - 05:26 AM
Posted December 12, 2012 - 08:06 AM
After wrecking one, struggling with a couple more, I came up with a setup, that works for me.
In order to get a good pull on the hub, with a bearing puller, I took a 2" long piece of pipe, about
the same ID, as the post OD, and slit it in half lengthwise. Tuck it up into the hub, against the steel
part of the hub. Use masking tape to hold in place, and then band it with a couple of gear clamps. Not
so tight, that it's binding to the post too much. Put the nut on the shaft, flush with shaft. Put a 1/4" thick steel
disc over the nut and shaft, and then your puller. PB blaster, pulling, tapping, and time.
- MH81 and KennyP have said thanks
Posted December 12, 2012 - 08:17 AM
Posted December 12, 2012 - 11:02 AM
Posted December 17, 2012 - 10:02 PM
Last summer I had to repair broken spokes on the steering wheel of my MF12G again, and the previous owner had the same problem. The crude nature of this kept me from posting, but maybe someone can refine it a little.
I notched a piece of angle iron to slip under the steering wheel and drilled a couple holes to use an automotive wheel puller. It worked but the angle iron bent up some. A big washer was then welded to the hub and spokes to spread the torque out some. Since the repair was crude anyway I mounted a spare horn button from a '55 GMC that was laying around here over the repair.
Posted December 18, 2012 - 12:59 AM
Seems that's the best way, get in under them & just keep trying
Posted September 29, 2014 - 03:53 PM
I know this topic is a bit old but I just had to remove the Steering wheel on my MF12.
I ran accross this thread as I just wanted to confirm I was not going to gorilla wrnch and brake something i was not seeing.
Once I confirmed I was on correct track I was able to wrestle mine off with little trouble.
In the Harbor Freight red plastic bearing puller kit there is a couple pieces that are like clam shell.
When used it has a tapered self centering shape.
I reversed that and clamped it snug but allowed enough room for it to slide up and down freely below steering wheel and used the flat surface towards the steering wheel.
Then I used the rest of the puller kit to leverage the wheel up pulling on the clamshell pieces instead of directly on the wheel itself.
HF is pretty common tool source so I thought this might be a value add tip if anone else runs into same issue.
- IamSherwood and Sawdust have said thanks
Posted September 29, 2014 - 08:06 PM
I just took the wheel off of Dads 12 ....I first took the nut off the center and took pb blaster to it three days off and on then put the nut part way back on an used a three arm pulley puller and a long socket upside down so flat side was between the puller screw and wheel nut put a peace of steel plate above the socket to put pressure on with the puller screw and tightened down on it till I felt if it gets any tighter it could break the steering wheel then hit the top of the puller bolt hard about three times and it popped right off.
Edited by mavtoy, September 29, 2014 - 08:10 PM.
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