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Bought A Bolens H1704 Hydro This Week , Bad News

8K views 21 replies 13 participants last post by  Don Campbell 
#1 ·
A few days ago I bought my first Bolens Diesel 4x4 . I was told it had been sitting for a few years and a couple years outside. Today I pulled the head off and saw a broken rocker arm and inside the first piston wall a big chunk was missing . Going to cost big bucks to fix it or get a different block.
Not sure if I may just scrap it for parts , got to think about it a few days and get a price at the machine shop for a possible sleeve insert. Has anyone had anything like this happen or see this before ?
 

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#2 ·
Wow thats bad ! Id (Being cheap) find a way to Delete that Cyl and just run 2 cylinders and run the injector line to the tank ! I have never seen a Damaged engine like that ! i wounder if it Froze (like there was water in the cylinder ) at one point it in is life ! Best of luck as parts are Expensive !
Cheers
Ty
 
#5 ·
OUCH!! That block is toast for sure. You might get lucky and find a block or complete engine in a salvage yard. Check around for other machines that use the same Iseki engine and you might be able to find one on the cheap. I know this is a major setback but think long term and don't scrap the tractor. It'll all work out in the end.
Last year dad missed checking the antifreeze in one if his Kubotas. [approx 25 horsepower] It is a size that you think would be a three cylinder but is actually 4 cylinders. He found out that engine was rare in tractors but larger zero turn Kubotas used the same engine. While looking on Craigslist a couple of weeks later he found a good running correct engine from a zero turn that the hydro had given up on and he bought the complete engine on a stand and heard it run before purchase for $400.
 
#6 ·
Sorry to hear this Don. Those Iseki motors have a good reputation. That is an extremely odd looking bit of damage. The entire cylinder looks odd. Maybe it was run on 2 cylinders after the damage?
 
#7 ·
thats why i say it froze as if water entered the Cylinder casing rust and expansion damage i can bet that it will run (judging that the bottom end is not junk pull the piston and rod out Stick weld (or braze ) that hole it will just shake odd and run funny i found a video from a member with a briggs twin with a blown rod running perfect
 
#8 ·
Yep I say she had some water in her at one time.
 
#11 ·
that's a crappy deal for sure....If nuthn else you can always do a swap. I know the whole point is to have the nice diesel however swapping is better than another GT going to parts or worse.....
 
#12 ·
Thanks a bunch everyone, this is all new to me too . Thanks for all your input as i am new at this. I was wondering if a person could weld a metal patch in their and sand it back smooth again . If i scrap it I at least tried one last longshot , ha,ha. When I pulled the head off it had a 1/2 inch of a thick redish metal rusty mush on top of the piston . I actually wiped it out with my finger . So it was built up water sitting in their for over 4 years. No exhaust cover over the pipe probably did it. The oil pan drain nut had been rounded off so i drilled it out and drained the oil and water . It had over a full cup of water in the pan too. Then I pounded a socket on the rounded nut and touched it quickly with a small weld , cooled it , then did it twice more. Then that sucker came off . I'm actually having fun puttering with it. The crank would only turn over manually 80% because the rusty cylinder wall stopped it when it hit the rusty edge. I sanded it down smooth to see if that was the obstruction and it was. So now I can spin it all the way around so that feels like the bottom end is not set up with rust. I'm not going to give up quite yet as I really like that little tractor . It is a pretty heavy duty looking machine. I have a 14 hp Onan hydro that runs perfect , any chance of converting something like that to it ? I know it will need a pump and a rear type driveshaft too .
 
#20 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thanks a bunch everyone, this is all new to me too . Thanks for all your input as i am new at this. I was wondering if a person could weld a metal patch in their and sand it back smooth again . If i scrap it I at least tried one last longshot , ha,ha. When I pulled the head off it had a 1/2 inch of a thick redish metal rusty mush on top of the piston . I actually wiped it out with my finger . So it was built up water sitting in their for over 4 years. No exhaust cover over the pipe probably did it. The oil pan drain nut had been rounded off so i drilled it out and drained the oil and water . It had over a full cup of water in the pan too. Then I pounded a socket on the rounded nut and touched it quickly with a small weld , cooled it , then did it twice more. Then that sucker came off . I'm actually having fun puttering with it. The crank would only turn over manually 80% because the rusty cylinder wall stopped it when it hit the rusty edge. I sanded it down smooth to see if that was the obstruction and it was. So now I can spin it all the way around so that feels like the bottom end is not set up with rust. I'm not going to give up quite yet as I really like that little tractor . It is a pretty heavy duty looking machine. I have a 14 hp Onan hydro that runs perfect , any chance of converting something like that to it ? I know it will need a pump and a rear type driveshaft too .
If it was some were else on the block maybe, my ridemaster in my avatar pic has a patch in the block.
A weld in the cylinder wall I would never trust it sleeveing it is your best bet.
 
#13 ·
First check the rest out , then get it sleeved . Those Mitsubishi engines are really good engines. Cat used them for years. If it has crank/rod damage..... Then a replacement engine may be far more $$$$ frugal. Good luck with it ???
 
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#15 ·
Thanks again everyone , all your opinions are important to me, positive or negative. Taking the block to get it sleeved is sounding better today but I will wait a few more days to do anything . I put it all back together this morning just to keep the parts from getting lost in case it is spring before I get it fixed. I love the little tractor and it would be fun to get it running and a personal challange too.
 
#16 ·
The main thing is don't get in a hurry. As already has been said the sleeve is the first option I would look into. I would tear it completely down and do an inventory of what you will need to get it going before making any firm decisions. I like diesels so finding some way to get it going again would be a priority.
Good luck with your project.
 
#18 ·
Just please don't paint that Jd green LOL :)
 
#21 ·
Once I get paint on the rusty spots , I'll have to push it out back until spring. After it has been sitting so many years outside now I think it could cost big bucks to get it running again. I'll keep my eye open of for a possible replacement 3 cyl diesel engine that would fit in it. It has been a good lesson for this old man
 
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