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#1 icpik OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2012 - 08:58 AM

Has anyone mounted a tachometer to a long hood 2414? I would like to add a tach (sold by Kirk engines), but I am reluctant to drill a hole in the the dash. Looking for other less destructive mounting methods. Prefer analog over digital tachs such as the mini-tach.

Don Hayes

#2 bgkid2966 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2012 - 09:04 AM

You can always find an existing bolt to attach a mounting bracket. I always try to avoid drilling or cutting the original metal of anything I am modifying. Sometimes you have to do it though. Good luck with the tach install. :camera:



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#3 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2012 - 10:27 AM

There are any number of ways to mount a tach if you use a little imagination. There are bezels available for all standard size guages. Back in the 60;s it was common to use 2 screw type hose clamps and mount the tach to the sterring wheel column on cars.
That's how I mounted the tach in my 55 Mercury.

Edited by JD DANNELS, December 11, 2012 - 10:42 AM.


#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2012 - 11:40 AM

Have you thought of the tiny tach which is a digital hr meter / tach combo that does not require a 2" diameter hole. http://tinytach.com/

#5 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2012 - 12:11 PM

How about this mounted on the column with a hose clamp:

http://www.amazon.co...meter gauge pod

Attached Thumbnails

  • pod.jpg

Edited by Trav1s, December 11, 2012 - 12:11 PM.


#6 icpik OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2012 - 01:19 PM

Thanks for the responses. I thought about adding the tach to the steering column with hose clamps. Hoping there was something different someone had done. I looked at the tiny-tach, but I called it the mini-tach. If I really wanted to know exactly what my RPM is, that is the way to go. I hate having to read most digital output. With anything analog, you simply glance at it, and you know what is happening. You seldom actually read the gage. However, if you need to be precise, digital is the best bet.

Don Hayes

Edited by icpik, December 11, 2012 - 01:20 PM.


#7 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2012 - 01:54 PM

I like the Pod Travis posted. But with a bit of aluminum you could fashion a bracket in any form that suits you and your application.
Even get fancy and do it up really neat. Back in July Lily's Dad posted a good tutorial on doing Engine Turning dashes you might find interesting. http://gardentractor...rning-aluminum/

#8 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2012 - 02:15 PM

I've only ever seen anybody install the tiny tach and I always thought that was only an hour meter. I'm sure you could get or fabricate a bracket to mount the analog tach to the dash where it turns under. That way you only make two small bolt holes.

#9 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2012 - 03:16 PM

I've only ever seen anybody install the tiny tach and I always thought that was only an hour meter. I'm sure you could get or fabricate a bracket to mount the analog tach to the dash where it turns under. That way you only make two small bolt holes.


I think I would go with this method. And actually, where Jeff is talking about drilling two holes already has a few SLOTS that you could bolt the bracket to..

#10 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2012 - 05:13 PM

One disadvantage of the tiny tach is that it can't be seen at light, while a backlit analog gauge is still readable. I also much prefer an analog gauge myself. One issue that I've thought of is that most standard automotive gauges are designed for use inside the car not out in the elements. I believe the tach Kirk is selling is designed for outside use so that is one thing that justifies it's price. I have a JD317 and would like to put a tach on it but I have the option of cutting out the second hole in the plastic dash. The second hole is already in the metal console so it's not that hard. Let us know how it goes if you get the Kirk tach.

#11 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2012 - 07:21 PM

I have one of each, the Kirk Tach is designed for the older Kohlers with battery ing, but will work on any single cyl motor with battery ing.

The TinyTach is designed for a motor with a magneto. I tried a TinyTach on a K301 with battery ing, and there was so much RF from the points and steel plug wire that the tach was bouncing all over the place. I was never able to read what the tach was showing.

The TinyTach I have on my Generiac Generator works just fine, it has solid state Ing, and doesn't have all the RF to interfere with the reading. The TT is both an hour meter and tach, with the motor off it shows hours, with it running it shows RPM.

The Kirk Tach is just a tach, it has a buffer curcuit so is has a slight delay showing RPM, but it works just fine on the K301.

Also you need to remember the K301 with battery Ing, fires once every other revolution, whereas a motor with a magneto fires every revolution. So a single cyl motor with a mag will show twice as many spark impulses as a single cyl with battery Ing.
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#12 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2012 - 07:33 PM

How about a suction cup? Some of them hold quite a bit.

#13 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2012 - 07:51 PM

I have one of each, the Kirk Tach is designed for the older Kohlers with battery ing, but will work on any single cyl motor with battery ing.

The TinyTach is designed for a motor with a magneto. I tried a TinyTach on a K301 with battery ing, and there was so much RF from the points and steel plug wire that the tach was bouncing all over the place. I was never able to read what the tach was showing.

The TinyTach I have on my Generiac Generator works just fine, it has solid state Ing, and doesn't have all the RF to interfere with the reading. The TT is both an hour meter and tach, with the motor off it shows hours, with it running it shows RPM.

The Kirk Tach is just a tach, it has a buffer curcuit so is has a slight delay showing RPM, but it works just fine on the K301.

Also you need to remember the K301 with battery Ing, fires once every other revolution, whereas a motor with a magneto fires every revolution. So a single cyl motor with a mag will show twice as many spark impulses as a single cyl with battery Ing.


Doesn't the frequency of spark depend on where the points are driven rather than on battery or Mag. If they are run off the cam like on the Kohler K301 you get 1 spark every 2 rev. If run directly on the crank like a Tec. HM80 you get 1 spark every revolution. The second spark is wasted during the exhaust stroke. It seems you would wear out your points and plug twice as fast as needed. It is much simpler and cheaper to do it that way I guess.

#14 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2012 - 07:59 PM

Most Mag motors fire the points from the crank instead of the cam, but the problem I was getting was the tiny spark produced when the points open. It created to much interference, and the steel plug wire didn't help any either.
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#15 icpik OFFLINE  

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Posted December 12, 2012 - 04:11 PM

Think I figured it out. Ryan reminded me that there are two slots where the dash turns under. They run for about 3 inches and are just left and right of center. These would work except the hydraulic lines might interfere. Still good options. However, to the left of center, near the steering column, there are two screws that hold either the solenoid or rectifier (not sure which it is) on the back side of the dash. Should be able to mount a swivel bracket using these screws. Just have to find or make the bracket for one of these locations. I'll let you know if I ever get it done.

Don Hayes




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