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Modifying Cast Iron Wheel Weights


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#31 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2012 - 10:10 PM

How are you planning on connecting the holes Doug?

#32 bgkid2966 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2012 - 10:13 PM

Being cast iron, they should break at the drilled line after all the holes are there. Good luck and keep us up to date.



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#33 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2012 - 10:15 PM

If he can manage another set of holes between what's there, it'll knock out with a slight hammering. Then some grinding to smooth the jagged edges. Still a lot of work!

#34 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2012 - 10:16 PM

How are you planning on connecting the holes Doug?


I don't want to spend $90 on a hole saw so I'll try to grind them with a grind stone of some sort on a homemade arbor of some sort on the drill press and somehow see if it works. As suggested.
In other words "not sure yet".

Edited by DH1, December 20, 2012 - 10:17 PM.


#35 massey driver ONLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2012 - 08:46 AM

Your comming right along.Good idea with drilling out most of the material,it should break out fairly easy with a chisel or even a air chisel, there'll be less to grind out once you start.Good thinking.Larry

#36 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2012 - 08:57 AM

You got that right Daniel. That's determination.
Doug, do you have a die grinder?
They're pretty cheap at your favourite store. (princess auto)
And get a ball nosed 1/2" burr. (? if that's what it's called)
You can knock down the ridges pretty quickly with that.
It'll make clean up easier for the grinding stone.

#37 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2012 - 09:46 PM

Today I picked up some longer drill bits but I still can't drill all the way through, come about 1/2" short.
Tomorrow I'll try the hammer, chisel and air chisel also.
I figure once I brake through the side I can use the air chisel and try to hit the drill groves sideways they should brake away quick.

#38 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2012 - 09:57 PM

Can you flip it and drill from the other side with your short bit? No way the holes would line up and you would have to watch the bit doesnt break, but anything to perf the cast so it doesn't break the wrong direction. Cast is brittle & that would really suck.

#39 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2012 - 10:06 PM

Can you flip it and drill from the other side with your short bit? No way the holes would line up and you would have to watch the bit doesnt break, but anything to perf the cast so it doesn't break the wrong direction. Cast is brittle & that would really suck.


The inside where I drill from is flat, the other side is angled.
003.JPG 002.JPG

Edited by DH1, December 21, 2012 - 10:08 PM.

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#40 massey driver ONLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2012 - 09:10 AM

I was thinking about how to best break out the cast and came up with this.If you have a tapered punch that"ll slide down into the hole a bit.Ia'm sure if you drive it down into the hole it'll act like a wedge and split out the cast where it's weakest.I think it would work best if you can drill all the way through.On another note seeing that you still have 1/2" left to drill if it was me I'd weld a longer piece of even mild steel or part of a bolt onto the end of the drill bit to extend it a bit.It won't have to be perfect and if your careful drilling it should work to finish off the holes.I know the drill bits are tempered steel but it'll still work just don't force the bit especially when its going to break thru on the other side.Another way would be to use one of the drill bit extenders and use a smaller dia. one then what your drill bit is,you'd have to grind the end of the drill bit down just enough to beable to slide the smaller size extender over the grd down end.I've also extended a drill bit by grinding the end of it to beable to put a small 1/4" drive socket on the end and using a short extention mounted in the drill press chuck to drive/turn the socket that fits tightly onto the drill bit.I have some very cheap 1/4" drive sets that I use for stuff like that .Be interesting to see how it works for you.Larry

Edited by massey driver, December 22, 2012 - 09:13 AM.


#41 Canawler OFFLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2012 - 09:11 AM

....so it doesn't break the wrong direction. Cast is brittle & that would really suck.


As I was reading the post before yours I had the image of a wheel weight broken in half flash through my head. It's good to see I'm not the only one that thinks that way. :D

#42 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2012 - 09:15 AM

As I was reading the post before yours I had the image of a wheel weight broken in half flash through my head. It's good to see I'm not the only one that thinks that way. :D



Yes, me too. Be carefull, with that air chisel. That's not really a very controlled landing.

#43 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2012 - 09:18 AM

I was thinking about how to best break out the cast and came up with this.If you have a tapered punch that"ll slide down into the hole a bit.Ia'm sure if you drive it down into the hole it'll act like a wedge and split out the cast where it's weakest.I think it would work best if you can drill all the way through.On another note seeing that you still have 1/2" left to drill if it was me I'd weld a longer piece of even mild steel or part of a bolt onto the end of the drill bit to extend it a bit.It won't have to be perfect and if your careful drilling it should work to finish off the holes.I know the drill bits are tempered steel but it'll still work just don't force the bit especially when its going to break thru on the other side.Another way would be to use one of the drill bit extenders and use a smaller dia. one then what your drill bit is,you'd have to grind the end of the drill bit down just enough to beable to slide the smaller size extender over the grd down end.I've also extended a drill bit by grinding the end of it to beable to put a small 1/4" drive socket on the end and using a short extention mounted in the drill press chuck to drive/turn the socket that fits tightly onto the drill bit.I have some very cheap 1/4" drive sets that I use for stuff like that .Be interesting to see how it works for you.Larry


The reason why I can't drill all the way through is the drill press doesn't have enough stroke. If I raise up the table so the bit is 3/4" in the weight before I start, or use a hand drill it might work.
The area that is left not drilled is the thinnest or where the least amount of material has to be removed.

That's today's job, try to finish this.
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#44 massey driver ONLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2012 - 10:47 AM

The reason why I can't drill all the way through is the drill press doesn't have enough stroke. If I raise up the table so the bit is 3/4" in the weight before I start, or use a hand drill it might work.
The area that is left not drilled is the thinnest or where the least amount of material has to be removed.

That's today's job, try to finish this.


Aw didn't think about the drill press stroke.Still be interesting to see how it turns out.

#45 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2012 - 07:26 PM

Well the hub now fits inside the weight.
002.JPG 003.JPG

After I finished drilling the holes as deep as I could I tried the hammer and chisel, then the air hammer.
I was able to chip away some but really didn't do too much.
Maybe if I was more careful when I drilled the holes making them closer together and closer to the inside edge it might of worked better.
001.JPG

I took a 1/2" bolt, cut the head off of it, used 2 nuts and 2 old grinder washers to mount a 5" - 1/4 thick grinder disk.
004.JPG

I used the drill press on the highest speed and worked the disk up and down, all around to enlarge the hole. It's easy to feel the high low spots so you know where to grind more.
The drill press dosen't have a lot of power for this kind of a job and as the disk wears you can push it harder, easy to stop the disk by pushing too hard.
006.JPG

I was able to make the hole big enough so that now the hub fits in, there's about 1/8" clearance minimum. I think it still needs to be bigger so that the wheel/weight assembly can be easily mounted to the tractor without removing the hub.
This is one time consuming dusty job.
005.JPG




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