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Modifying Cast Iron Wheel Weights


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#16 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 09, 2012 - 11:52 PM

The hub is held on with 1 big nut, a washer and a woodruff key.
The cheapest is to bolt the hub to the rim, then bolt the weight to the rim, then bolt the assembly to the axle with the 1 big nut.
Just like has being said.

I got brand new AG tires for it, get them mounted and sealed up good, should be OK.
If the tire has to come off it's 1 big nut to take off.

005.JPG

Edited by DH1, December 09, 2012 - 11:56 PM.

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#17 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted December 09, 2012 - 11:55 PM

That will work! Well what ever you decide, Good Luck :thumbs:

At least you have a few options on the table if needed :D

#18 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 09, 2012 - 11:58 PM

That's what I like about this place.

Ask a question, and you get some answers.

#19 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2012 - 12:15 AM

That's what I like about this place.

Ask a question, and you get some answers.

That's what I love! There are so many ways to do things (right or wrong) so it is great getting different ideas from people. Some times the answer could be so simple, but it is easily over looked when doing things on your own.

#20 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2012 - 12:44 AM

I think your cheapest option, would be air arc'd , and then you clean up with a die grinder.

Machine shop rates, with a lathe that large, are going to be up there.

#21 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2012 - 02:18 AM

i quess im not really understanding the problem, correctly. If you can stack up the package and then slide it on the spline and have only one nut to tighten/remove,,,,,where's the trouble? They certainly weigh a lot less than the 130# of tire/wheel i put on my two wheeler.

#22 massey driver ONLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2012 - 08:42 AM

It would be a pain to have to remove the hub every time you needed to pull the rim/tire off.Now if your like me and like to get things done as cheaply as possible and do it yourself this is what I'd do. If you have a drill press and get get it to run at a high speed this is what I'd do. Using a mandrel that you either make yourself out of say a 1/2" bolt and lug nut[a wheel lug nut is tapered so it will self center the grinding wheel.You get yourself a 6" bench grinder wheel mount it into your homemade mandrel put it into your drill press and put your weight onto the drill press table,line it up as close to center as possible and slowly feed the wheel down through the center of the weight.Of course if you can get away with using a 5" grinding wheel that would be better yet.But if your hub is 5" diam.then that would be to tight.Then again if you have a 7" angle grinder with a worn down disc say at 5 1/2 " that would even work better.This is just what I'd do to save a few $$ plus give me some shop time and something to play around with doing on my own.As you can tell I do all sorts of things to save a $ and my time is my time to me.Remeber this is just me being me.LOL Larry
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#23 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2012 - 09:45 AM

Doug, You either have to bore the weight or get it air arc'ed out to the proper I.D..

I would mount the hub to the rim, mount the weight, mount the whole thing on the axle. But that is me. :smilewink:


Brian, if you ever tried pulling one of these hubs after being mounted for 30+ years, that idea would quickly be put to rest. These hubs can be a nightmare to get off the axle!

#24 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2012 - 11:24 AM

Of the ideas presented so far,I'm thinking the hole saw would be the best option. The Good Quality Hole Saws will do a lot of work. They are pricey, but if not overheated will last a long time.
My Nephew built a Rock Crawler and used 1 Hole saw to notch all the tubing in the whole chassis and I was impressed with the work a hole saw will do.
I used to make a lot of gears in the factory(broaching splines and keyways, drilling and taping for set screws) and machining cast is not at all bad as long as they are good castings. The only porblem we had was drilling with small drills and hitting porus spots would break drills(in production we were pushing speed and feed to the point there was little margin for error)..I also made a lot of base castings on a Radial drill for Grinder mixers, before they got a machining center that would do all 16 operations in one set up.

Edited by JD DANNELS, December 10, 2012 - 11:31 AM.

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#25 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2012 - 06:40 PM

The nut on the hub needs a 1-3/4" socket, wrench to turn it, I don't have anything that big but they can be bought.
The hub is 5-1/2" dia, the hole in the weight is tapered.
The hub does not fit in the inside of the weight
003.JPG

but does fit in the outside of the weight.
002.JPG

Hub shown is from a MF10 gear drive but it has the same outside dia 5-1/2"

The depth of the hole in the weight is 3"
I figure you would need a 5-3/4" hole for the weight to fit over the hub so 5-3/4" to 6" is what you want to end up with.
6" bench grinder stones are cheap compared to a hole saw of the same size.

What to do?

#26 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2012 - 06:50 PM

It is to bad a Bolens guy doesn't have a set to trade you. I am also guessing no Bolens guys have read this post yet and saw that you want to cut up a pair of Bolens weights LOL.

#27 velle01 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 12, 2012 - 12:31 PM

Interesting post.

If it was me this is what I would do.

I would take the tire off. Then using a puller I would remove the hub. This would allow me to check that 30 year old seal and make sure it isnt leaking. I would then slide the wheel weight over the axle. I would then reinstall the hub. I then would install the tire. using very long hex head bolts i would then install the outter wheel weight.

Think I read someone else doing this the same way.

The inside weight could be left on all year long.

Pretty sure in the 40 plus years we have owned a bolens 1250 we have removed the tires and wheels twice. Once to replace a seal and another to paint the whole tractor.

just my 2 cents. good luck please let us all know how you made out.

#28 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted December 12, 2012 - 03:27 PM

Interesting post.

If it was me this is what I would do.

I would take the tire off. Then using a puller I would remove the hub. This would allow me to check that 30 year old seal and make sure it isnt leaking. I would then slide the wheel weight over the axle. I would then reinstall the hub. I then would install the tire. using very long hex head bolts i would then install the outter wheel weight.

Think I read someone else doing this the same way.

The inside weight could be left on all year long.

Pretty sure in the 40 plus years we have owned a bolens 1250 we have removed the tires and wheels twice. Once to replace a seal and another to paint the whole tractor.

just my 2 cents. good luck please let us all know how you made out.

Another great idea. Thanks for jumping in! We would like to see more people add there 2 cents! The more ideas on a subject the better. :thumbs:

#29 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2012 - 09:53 PM

Tonight after work I started on the Weights
Centered the hub on the weight and marked it. This is how big the hole needs to be.
001.JPG 002.JPG

I then started to drill holes, first I tried a large bit but it broke through the side, then used a smaller bit and drilled many holes. Drilled down as far as I could but it didn't go all the way through
006.JPG 007.JPG
That's about as far as I got tonight.

#30 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2012 - 09:59 PM

You are one determined man Doug! You need "jobber bits". They are extra long.




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