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Ford/jacobsen Lgt 165

ford jacobsen lgt lgt 165

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#16 HankS OFFLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2012 - 08:36 AM

Does that engine have a separate fuel pump below the carb? We wrestled with a K301 that had been sitting for years. Points were corroded, you've taken care of that. Carb, float assembly was gummed up, sounds like you've taken care of that. Finally removed fuel pump and cleaned that up. Engine started up and purred like a kitten. 45 years old and idles and runs like the day it was made. Those K series engines are amazing.
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#17 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2012 - 09:22 AM

Hydraulics most likely are working , you need to have weight on the lift frame as it is spring loaded. If it doesn't work then the cylinder may be bad internally.
Your carb may be the newer Walboro type (very sensitive to contamination) if the main needle is on top going straight down then its the Kohler/carter carb (yeah who) but if its at an angle on the right side ( aw crap) your in for a fight.
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#18 Rock farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2012 - 10:23 AM

Does that engine have a separate fuel pump below the carb? We wrestled with a K301 that had been sitting for years. Points were corroded, you've taken care of that. Carb, float assembly was gummed up, sounds like you've taken care of that. Finally removed fuel pump and cleaned that up. Engine started up and purred like a kitten. 45 years old and idles and runs like the day it was made. Those K series engines are amazing.

Yes it has a mech fuel pump.
And am suspicious of it. Some one has replaced the fuel lines already. But they did not put an in line filter in.

Hydraulics most likely are working , you need to have weight on the lift frame as it is spring loaded. If it doesn't work then the cylinder may be bad internally.
Your carb may be the newer Walboro type (very sensitive to contamination) if the main needle is on top going straight down then its the Kohler/carter carb (yeah who) but if its at an angle on the right side ( aw crap) your in for a fight.


Keith, I just got a grinding sound when i tried to move the hydro lift lever.
I did not consider the no load situation.
I have a wheelhorse with a sixteen horse in it.
I think they both have Kohler carb. First needle at twelve o'clock second at two o'clock?
Position control knob is seized. ( my LGT 125 doesn't have that).

Thanks guys!

Joe

#19 Rock farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2012 - 05:49 PM

So, worked on it today.
Checked out the fuel pump. Seems to be good.
Cleaned carb. Float valve was sticking. Replaced it.
Adjusted the governor. That helped a bit.
Replaced J8C plug with J10C. That helped a bit.
Got it running better. And, let it run for awhile.
I'm having trouble with points gap / timing. when setting it by the book I get nothing.
(Analog volt meter / .020 gage) will not run.
Setting by seat of the pants, I can get it to run. I need to by a timing light.
Found a bracket on the net for mounting Chevy points (screw adjust) to the kohler.
Looks like a good way to go.
As it is now will run fine. But cannot adjust throttle or choke at all.
Bogs down, sputters and smokes from time to time.
I don't think there is anything major wrong with it. Just timing/governor/spark?
Judging from the soot that was on the grill I think this may have been going on for some time.
I'm going to sleep on it. But, if anyone has suggestions, I'd like to here them!

Thanks!

Joe

#20 Rock farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2013 - 06:36 PM

Well slept on it for a couple of months. Got to working on it this weekend. Cleaned the carburetor a few more times. Drained all the gas from the tank. Took the points out tried to install the Chevy points. But push rod was too short to open the points! Re-installed the old points. Checked the fuel pump. looked kinda weak. took one from my other 16 horse. looked better. Put the spark tester on the spark plug. Spark looked good. Then it didn't. Then it did. Decided to replace coil and condenser with the ones from my other motor.

Bingo! We're of to the races! Last two tractors I bought, both had bad coils! Could have been the condenser I suppose. I'll check that later. So now I can hook up my snow blower and be ready! Better late than never!

Joe

#21 firstgen89sho OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2013 - 06:38 PM

Always better late then never, same with my snow blower that I got over 2/3 of the way through the season, it still helped.


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#22 Buck OFFLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2013 - 08:08 PM

Nice tractor Joe. You will love it once you get all the bugs out of it. Nice power and built like tanks! You are not far from me!


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#23 Rock farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 06:18 PM

Grounds finally dry enough to lay on and inspect the underside of the tractor today. I noticed two wires with connectors on them not attached to anything. The only thing I can think of, is maybe its the same wire harness as a gear drive tractor, and, this would be for the optional electric lift? The wires are just in front of the rear wheels.

Joe

#24 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2013 - 06:08 AM

What color are the wires ? If they are white, then they probably went to a safety switch under the seat. You will notice the hole in the tool box and fender pan for these.
The hydro's never had this option if it was 14 hp or more. Only manual lift tractors had it. As all 145-195 had hydraulic lift standard.

My 165 had that, and they went to the pto switch. When i re- did the wiring it had me wondering for a bit , until i saw the holes in the fender pan and tool box.
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#25 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2013 - 07:53 AM

Are there wires going to the neutral start switch? The ones for the seat switch should be Blue. The neutral switch has White wires.

FordWiringDiagram.jpg

I did this from the diagram in the manual just to show colors better.


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#26 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2013 - 10:27 AM

Them be the ones, mine might have been blue at one time ? LOL it was very tough telling th e difference , as they were in really tough shape.

#27 Rock farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2013 - 02:51 PM

The wires were white. They were off of the neutral safety switch. I put them back on and tested it. It's not working. Someone must have dis-connected it at the other end. I never noticed because I always put it in neutral when I park it.

No sign of the blue wires or a seat switch. Must have been removed long ago.

This tractor rolls backwards if you take your foot off the pedal. In hi or low range. I have to put my foot on the pedal just a little to stop the movement so that I can shift it into neutral. I tried adjusting the linkages for it today without any luck. I did not find anything in the service manual. How do I fix that?

Thanks for the help!

Joe

#28 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2013 - 03:55 PM

Joe, look at the springs that are attached the big heavy one has a funky bent attachment point. This is where you adjust for neutral. Just loosen slightly and turn it ever so general one way or the other until it stays still and can be shifted easily. This will be located inside the frame next to where the pedal pivots.
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#29 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2013 - 07:28 PM

Check out the owners manual, page 11.



#30 Rock farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2013 - 08:36 PM

Thanks Kenny! If its not raining I'll try that tomorrow.

Joe





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