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Trying Full Synthetic Mobil One In Old H-16


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#1 bolex OFFLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2012 - 07:21 PM

i have a 73 H16 with an HH techumsa engine . I am going to experiment with mobil one oil this winter the oil change was done the other night and wow what a difference it seems to run smoother and makes less noise (less rattle rattle from the valve train ) of course this may not be for everyone given the cost of mobil oils :poke: , i have access to them at slightly over cost so i save $3+ a qt but my lawnmower tech buddy figures i can get two years out of the mobil oil before i change it .Now the question, will synthetic oil destroy my original HH160 engine as it may have never been apart in the past? yes it's an HH160 OHV first year in a H-16 model1656 serial #0100898. ?#2 will the synthetic last 2 years used as a snow blower / tiller which is all i normally use it for and it sits from the middle of june till snow flys and runs again till no snow so it's used for 5 months or less out of the year ? So i want some opinions from all and no curses over what i pay for mobil one please :smilewink: :anyone:
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#2 goodnews OFFLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2012 - 07:45 PM

kind of ironic i've been asking that ? for two days still don't have an exact ans. i put 10w30 in my 1971 wis. and if you stood to close you could get an oil bath so i drained it out got a qt. sae 30 put that in and it quit spraying it out but now i'm installing a 89 b&s 16 hp ohv so what do i use in it? the guy i got it from said he always ran 5w30 so if i got you confused i am too, the other guys will be along shortly and maybe help us both.

in Christ Bobby

Edited by goodnews, December 06, 2012 - 07:46 PM.


#3 A.C.T. OFFLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2012 - 07:59 PM

I also would like to know if I can switch to synthetic oil on a 40 year old Kohler. (Engine that is)

#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2012 - 08:33 PM

I don't think the synthetic will cause any problems but the viscosity of most of the oils out there is not going to match 30wt. Amsoil makes a synthetic that is designed for small engines that call for 30 wt. oil. I have some of it that I'm planning to use in the JD317 that I am restoring. It has the original series 1 kt17 in it and I want to see if it will last me a while before I have to re power. The Amsoil product code is ASE-QT As far as drain interval goes you could push it a bit further than conventional oil but it really depends on the number of hours you run rather than the time in years.
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#5 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2012 - 08:44 PM

I have used 5w30 synthetic in my B&S 18hp 3 wheel mower and I find it works well.
031.jpg

I put it in in the spring and it lasts all season without adding any, average use 6hrs per week.
At the end of the season it is still semi transparent, not black.
I find that on the hot days pushing the engine hard it does not smoke at all.
Seems to do a better job of lubricating, cooling and stays cleaner longer.

IMO
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#6 8tyman8 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2012 - 10:10 PM

One tip once you go synthetic Dont go back ! i had a craftsman Push mower and i when synthetic i changed the oil back to regular oil ! it smokes knocks and i dont use it any more ! I like to run Lucas and it works well i like it
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#7 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2012 - 10:26 PM

I've never used syn. in my old ones but I did use it in my '06 JD with a Briggs. It did great. I used 5w-30 in it also. Never a usage or smoking problem. Oil always came out clear and I used the LT year round. Oh and I also use a little Lucas in all my engines including my vehicles. Good stuff!
Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2

Edited by dropped82, December 06, 2012 - 10:27 PM.

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#8 Farmlife OFFLINE  

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Posted December 07, 2012 - 04:57 AM

I agree, Lucas products are the best. I've used almost everything they have from oil, fuel, power steering, to transmission treatments. They are the only thing I have found that does EXACTLY what it says on the bottle. It also saved me 2500 when a tranny guy told me my transmission in my Jeep was shot. As far as oil, SAE30 in my tractors engines and axles.....my grandfather told me many years ago that he's never used any different on every tractor he's owned and that's what I use. He told me, "look at the older tractor manuals boy, notice almost all of em actually say use SAE30? Back then people honored warrantys and came to your house for reapairs. Ya think they'd tell ya to use something that would cost them money?"
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#9 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted December 07, 2012 - 05:31 AM

Synthetic oils will not hurt an engine.

Lucas is also a very good product.
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#10 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted December 07, 2012 - 06:54 AM

I'm also thinking about switching to synthetic for my PK that I keep outside for snow plowing . Might be easier on the motor when the temps are below freezing ? Al

#11 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted December 07, 2012 - 07:27 AM

I ran 15W40 AMS Oil in everything except the two cycle engines for over 15 years on different golf courses I worked at. We doubled the recommended oil change interval on everything and never had an oil related engine failure. Many of the engines had over 3000 hours on the hour meter when I left the courses, several had over 5000 hours and a couple over 7500 hours.

The only problem was that if the engine had a seep with the dinosaur pee it had a leak with the synthetic. I was told that it was simply due to the molecule size difference between the old oil and the synthetic.

Of course this is only my humble but well thought out opinion.

Edited by GTTinkerer, December 07, 2012 - 07:27 AM.

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#12 1978murray OFFLINE  

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Posted December 07, 2012 - 08:41 AM

once u got sythetic donot go back. you will destroy the motor. Sythetic will not hurt it, but u must change it like any other oil. I would just run the part sythetic
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#13 goodnews OFFLINE  

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Posted December 07, 2012 - 08:51 AM

I ran 15W40 AMS Oil in everything except the two cycle engines for over 15 years on different golf courses I worked at. We doubled the recommended oil change interval on everything and never had an oil related engine failure. Many of the engines had over 3000 hours on the hour meter when I left the courses, several had over 5000 hours and a couple over 7500 hours.

The only problem was that if the engine had a seep with the dinosaur pee it had a leak with the synthetic. I was told that it was simply due to the molecule size difference between the old oil and the synthetic.

Of course this is only my humble but well thought out opinion.

that makes sense to me . inChrist Bobby

Edited by goodnews, December 07, 2012 - 08:53 AM.


#14 HankS OFFLINE  

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Posted December 08, 2012 - 08:34 AM

I agree, Lucas products are the best. I've used almost everything they have from oil, fuel, power steering, to transmission treatments. They are the only thing I have found that does EXACTLY what it says on the bottle. It also saved me 2500 when a tranny guy told me my transmission in my Jeep was shot. As far as oil, SAE30 in my tractors engines and axles.....my grandfather told me many years ago that he's never used any different on every tractor he's owned and that's what I use. He told me, "look at the older tractor manuals boy, notice almost all of em actually say use SAE30? Back then people honored warrantys and came to your house for reapairs. Ya think they'd tell ya to use something that would cost them money?"


Straight 30w non-detergent oil was often recommended for non-forced lubrication engines. Detergent oils tend to suspend any dirt/particles in the oil. So you're constantly throwing the dirt back up into the engine. A non-detergent oil allows the contaminents to settle to the bottom of the oil pan. With forced lubrication the oil filter will remove the suspended contaminents.

#15 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted December 08, 2012 - 08:57 AM

I've been running 10w-30 in all my Bolens for years and see no need to change.
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