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Craftsman 917.254450 Winter Refresh


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#16 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2012 - 01:08 PM

I found that a Thin layer of Permatex (It's blue with Aluminun flakes) works wonders on Aluminum Block Briggs engines.I had seeping on a 19.5hp,14hp,16hp and 18hp oppossed twin.All of them leak or seep from the oil sump and some seepage from the big square plate (don't know what they call it).The square plate always seemed to seep or leak from the top and the oil sump always seems to leak or seep from just under the front cylinder on all of them.

Those stock Can mufflers sure do sound good don't they?Alot better than the square ones.I've seen a couple with Dual Can mufflers and they really sound good.1 can for each cylinder.
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#17 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2012 - 07:36 PM

I just use the cheap enamual, it seems to hold up well, I need to find a better hi-temp BBQ paint for the mufflers tho. Here is the de-carboning progress, The cylanders look good, can still see some of the cross hatch.

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#18 bgkid2966 ONLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2012 - 09:06 PM

Looks good! The cylinders do look pretty good. Nice clean up job.


Geno

#19 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2012 - 09:17 PM

Thanks, I finished cleaning the head covers, goof-off and a scower pad got most of it, some of the caked on bits had to be scraped. I will probally pull the oil pan and back cover tomorrow and clean up the gasket area. I do plan on using permetex on the new gaskets.

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#20 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2012 - 05:51 AM

Looking good, Larry! You're moving right along.

#21 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2012 - 07:40 PM

Ok, I'm not a Briggs engineer, but I have a question about the valve bodies. The Left side (which has a breather) has two large passages and a small drain hole. The Right side (cover is solid) only has a drain hole. I don't see how the oil gets in to the Right side other than the valve guides. Looks good in there also.

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#22 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2012 - 08:54 PM

I have a real question now. the oil slinger is a set of nylon paddle gears. (Part 691964 for $36.70) this dosn't look normal, and there is some wobble with the top gear. Being a critical part, I think i'll answer my own question, and "I think it needs replaced". This is the first time I have opened up a vertical B/S twin. The horozantal ones don't have near the oil pockets that don't drain. I bet a pint came out after I thought it was drained. If you fill to the "fill" mark and then run, these pockets would re-fill and cause it to be low on oil.

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#23 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2012 - 10:09 PM

Ok, I would like to comment on another post (can't remember where, but I think it was said several times) To convert a Vert B/S to a Horz B/S all you need to do is change the intake manifold. After breaking each down, The intake manifold will need changed, then you will need an oil pan to swap with the vert back cover, then some oil dippers, and finnaly a new crank cover and crank bearing. These are the main differences I see.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Horz Crank case Cover.JPG
  • Horz Dippers.JPG
  • Horz Oil Pan.jpg
  • Horz PTO Berring.JPG
  • Vert PTO.JPG
  • Vert Crank cover.JPG
  • Vert Back pnl.JPG

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#24 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2012 - 10:26 PM

Those little itty-bitty paddles are all that oils the engine? Yeah, probably a good time to change 'em.

#25 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted December 12, 2012 - 03:30 PM

I would change the slinger.The gear teeth look pretty warn and I bet it's very brittle.

You have to rework the block a little if you convert them.You will have to cut new oil drain grooves for the Cam and crank.And you can't use a Preasure lubbed block without some rather extensive machining and fab work to plumb it up internally.
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#26 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted December 12, 2012 - 07:31 PM

I would change the slinger.The gear teeth look pretty warn and I bet it's very brittle.

You have to rework the block a little if you convert them.You will have to cut new oil drain grooves for the Cam and crank.And you can't use a Preasure lubbed block without some rather extensive machining and fab work to plumb it up internally.


The BIG difference is in the Oil Pan on the Vert, On a Horz this is the shaft cover and has a large bearing, on the vert, it is just a sleve in the sump.

#27 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted December 12, 2012 - 09:17 PM

I found that a Thin layer of Permatex (It's blue with Aluminun flakes) works wonders on Aluminum Block Briggs engines.I had seeping on a 19.5hp,14hp,16hp and 18hp oppossed twin.All of them leak or seep from the oil sump and some seepage from the big square plate (don't know what they call it).The square plate always seemed to seep or leak from the top and the oil sump always seems to leak or seep from just under the front cylinder on all of them.

Those stock Can mufflers sure do sound good don't they?Alot better than the square ones.I've seen a couple with Dual Can mufflers and they really sound good.1 can for each cylinder.


Yes. Mine was seeping from all those places. I noticed when removeing the bolts on the back cover and oil pan, at least one was "not tight" and took little effort to remove. And there was more seepage at the "not tight" bolts. Permatex and Blue LOC tight will be used.
I pulled the trigger for a new oil slinger. and have been cleaning the gasker area. I'm sure each member has their method. I found this works well on aluminum, and easily accessed gasket areas. After prying off all the loose gasket material, the remaining seems to be expocied on. A exacto knife can work in tight places, but you can nick the aluminun face. I found a nylon sanding disk works well to remove the stubborn gasket remains.

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#28 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2012 - 04:55 AM

Looks good, Larry. Should be able to get it to seal up now.

#29 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2012 - 05:02 AM

Looks like a new one, should be leak free now...

#30 UncleWillie ONLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2012 - 10:00 AM

That should seal nicely.




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