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No Spark In The Suburban 10


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#1 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2012 - 09:05 AM

67 sears suburban 10
Tecumseh HH-100
Recoil start
I finally have the points push rod in and no spark. I asked in another place and got some great sugestions, learned some things about points and how finiky this engine could be. So, after repeatedly setting the points, I filed them and used spray electronic cleaner, still no spark.
I finally braved removing the shroud. I didn't want to as it meant removing 3 head bolts and didn't want to do that till I am confident I can get this thing going.
Well, seems like someone had put in one of those electronic ignition modules.
inbition_mod_2.JPG
coil_2.JPG
Where do I go from here? How would I know if the coil is any good? Is this the impossible one to find? Should I try a new universal electronic module? Should I try to remove it, put in a condenser and points? Either option there would cost about $20.
Thank You,
Robert

#2 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2012 - 09:16 AM

I had to get my crystal ball out, but it looks like someone decided to give up on the points when they had problems and tried one of these do-dads.

If it were mine, I would clean all mounting surfaces and connections to the magneto, put in a new condenser, and try it again.

You can go ahead & put the head bolts back in without the tinwork, so you can verify spark without blowing the head gasket. I just toss an extra washer under those bolts.

Don't forget to clean up the cooling fins before you reassemble the tin.

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#3 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2012 - 10:51 AM

Those cooling fins are much dirtier than they look. Once I have spark, I will remove the head, decarbon, and new gasket anyway. Want spark first.

#4 Arti OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2012 - 12:27 PM

If memory serves me correctly no condenser is used with an Atom ignition module. If you decide to use the points again then a condenser will be necessary. Also the Atom eliminated the points so there shouldn't be any wires connected from the Atom module to the points.
Sorry I can't offer any more advice than that.

Edited by Arti, November 24, 2012 - 12:32 PM.

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#5 Hugh OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2012 - 12:34 PM

That looks very Mickey Moused to me, I would take all that stuff off and try and revert it to stock
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#6 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2012 - 03:41 PM

If memory serves me correctly no condenser is used with an Atom ignition module. If you decide to use the points again then a condenser will be necessary. Also the Atom eliminated the points so there shouldn't be any wires connected from the Atom module to the points.
Sorry I can't offer any more advice than that.

The points wire and a kill wire are hooked together at the front bottom of the engine, right by the shroud. They go to nothing from there. I believe they removed the condenser and put the Atom in it's place while disconnecting the points.

That looks very Mickey Moused to me, I would take all that stuff off and try and revert it to stock

I think this may be my best bet. I haven't really heard good reviews about the electronic modules and these older engines. I have read good things about the points. I may nee help figuring just which wires go where though. I stopped at NAPA, around 3 pm to find the condenser but they were closed. They have the Kohler ones and they should work, right?

#7 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 26, 2012 - 09:37 PM

I ordered a condenser today. I am not sure of how the wiring should be but I think that the wire from the coil that is wire nutted to the white wire on that "Atom" goes to the condenser, the points and also a kill wire or switch? The wire that is grounded would still be grounded to the condenser mounting screw?

#8 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 26, 2012 - 09:52 PM

That sounds right, Robert. Assuming everything else is good, you should have spark when you do that.

#9 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2012 - 04:01 PM

I GOT SPARK! I GOT SPARK!! WOOOO HOOOOO!!
I took the little blue thing off and put the condenser on. The little wire from the coil was to short. It's the one with the wire nut in the picture. I took the magneto off, and cleaned the contacts real well, Then twisted a short length of wire onto that wire and slipped on a piece of heat shrink tubing. The plug wire came out of the coil but I just pushed it back into the hole. I put everything back together so I could pull the recoil and sure enough, it worked. I need to do a little more work before I put the carb back on, The arm that the throttle cable is attached to is bent in toward the engine and rubs. I also need to put on a flat drive idler that was missing when I bought the tractor. I also need to hook up a clutch spring, that was missing too and I think I found one that will work. This need to be done before I put the tray back on that holds the gas tank. I am also missing the governor spring. Will it start without that being on?
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#10 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2012 - 06:33 PM

It will start, but watch reving it!
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#11 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2012 - 07:56 PM

Good news, isn't it amazing how a little blue spark can make us smile?

Yes, it should start without the spring, but as Kenny said, it will have a tendency to either stay at idle or take off. These engines do NOT like high RPMs with their original pushrods. Just make sure the kill switch works and is available when you start playing with it.
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#12 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2012 - 10:16 PM

Kill switch or wire. That's another "also." I just re-read my last post and realized that I sure have a lot of alsos to complete. HA! The key switch didn't work so someone had put a wire on the gromet that has the points wire attached. Probably to ground it to shut it off. Well, I just ran that wire to the condenser so it leaves me with no kill wire. I'll see if I have a toggle switch that I can use tomorrow.
Yeah, that blue spark made me smile alright. Could you tell that I was excited?

#13 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2012 - 10:26 PM

Been there, good feeling to resurrect one of these machines.

#14 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2012 - 10:23 PM

Straightened arm and hook up throttle cable, check. Idler pulley and spring, check. Carb, check. Remembered I had drained oil. Fill. check Just the tray and gas tank to go and I hate doing this, but one more question? Remember this is a magneto engine, no stator, no electric start, just recoil. What's the best way to make sure the timing is correct without pulling, pulling, pulling, reseting points? Pulling, pulling, pulling, reseting points. If it means pulling the recoil and cover off again, I don't mind. That's easier than pulling a rope.

Edited by robert_p43, November 30, 2012 - 10:24 PM.


#15 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2012 - 08:07 AM

The timing is set by how far the points open. I stared at this for a full. Inute before I decided I don't remember the gap with certainty... 20 thou sticks in my head, but not sure.

You might download the service manual for the Teccy engines and see if it's in there.

EDIT oh, I bet it's in the MF10 service manual we have in the Massey tractors section. The early ones had that same engine just with a different throttle cable setup.
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