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A Model 8h Added To The Stable


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#16 esbbent ONLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2012 - 12:07 PM

Update on the engine: This am I pulled the spark plug out (which was just finger tight) and turned over the engine with my thumb over the spark hole, the engine had some compression, i next checked for spark and it looked good. After putting the spark plug back in and tightened it up correctly, I checked the oil and it was low and I had just topped it off yesterday. I decided to see if the engine would start and run. It started right up but didnt sound right I could here a knock in the engine time for a tear down.
After tearing the engine down I found 2 major issues; 1 Connecting rod bolt was finger tight and rod and cap are shot 100_1496.jpg 100_1497.jpg . The piston also had a lot of slop in it.
Anyone have any idea on how to get the flywheel off? There are no holes to put a puller on it. 100_1498.jpg

#17 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2012 - 12:32 PM

On those flywheels, I use the smack and hope method.

Back the nut out untill flush with the end. Then I take two handi bars or large screwdrivers and put some decent pressure, constant between the case and the flywheel on opposing sides... Say 10:00 & 4:00
A second person smacks the end of the shaft with a brass hammer. Don't be to soft, about the force of driving a 16d nail is what I've always equated it to.

You want to have the other side of the case on, IDK what would happen if you didn't... Wouldn't want the case to be stressed or crack at the flywheel area.

#18 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2012 - 12:34 PM

I pulled my HH120 flywheel off using a large 3 jaw puller and hammering the bolt against the shaft while gently tightening the puller. Don't know if that will help here.

#19 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2012 - 12:39 PM

You know, this might be a good time to try an idea I saw on this forum. I think you use 4 wood splitting wedges. Place the engine on a flat surface, then slip one wedge point up on each side. Then take two more wedges and push them in point down. Gently tap the upper wedges down so that force is applied evenly on both sides. Continue till the flywheel pops loose.

I can't remember who to thank for that tip.

#20 esbbent ONLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2012 - 01:15 PM

Thanks for the wedge tip, i put 2 wide metal chisels between the block and flywheel and one hit with ball peen hammer it came off. I found the oil dipper in 4 parts in the bottom of the engine block. Now to find parts, looks like I will need piston and connecting rod, oil dipper and a gasket set.

#21 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2012 - 06:57 PM

Is the piston actually damaged or is it slop from worn rings?

Also, is the crank ok? Looks like that rod has been hammering hard.

#22 esbbent ONLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2012 - 09:01 PM

The crank is fine, caught just in time, no maring at all where the rod bolts to it.
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#23 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2012 - 09:19 PM

I would check with BHTS, Joes, or Patton to see. Maybe one of them have parted an engine and have good used ones. New rods after a google search aren't too bad, but good used is usually my favorite song.




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