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the 212 just died on me...


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#1 brzezinski01 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2010 - 06:28 AM

so I went to mow a couple yards yesterday and it ran fine for about 2 hours, then I was driving it back to my house and half way into the back yard it just died. and that was it. It rolls over and everything but it just wont start. I don't think its getting spark. but I just tried once it started getting dark, by tring and old spark plug on the wire and looking for spark. anyone else had this probelem before?

#2 mastifflawyer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2010 - 07:08 AM

so I went to mow a couple yards yesterday and it ran fine for about 2 hours, then I was driving it back to my house and half way into the back yard it just died. and that was it. It rolls over and everything but it just wont start. I don't think its getting spark. but I just tried once it started getting dark, by tring and old spark plug on the wire and looking for spark. anyone else had this probelem before?


Yes-I have had that problem about 1000 times. Eliminate the easy stuff first. Make sure you have gas. Make sure it is getting to the carb. Shoot a small amount of starting fluid in there to see if you get it to fire. If so then it is fuel related. If not then it is on to the electrical system. See if there is spark at the plug. If not then on to the coil. Check all connections there and back to the key switch. Check the ground while you are there. If none of that works come on back and we can tell you how to test with a volt meter. 99% of the time you won't get that far. Good Luck! Jack

#3 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2010 - 07:48 AM

Just like Jack mentioned always check the easy stuff first. Checking for spark with a plug is fine and easy as long as you have the threaded part of the plug grounded. I always check gas level first and then go from there.

#4 brzezinski01 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2010 - 01:05 PM

so I finally got around to check my 212. there was no spark. so that means coil right? all of the connections seem to be tight...

#5 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2010 - 01:51 PM

Did you check spark with another plug? If so do you have another coil that you could try? You can also check for signal on the wire going to the coil from the pickup.

#6 brzezinski01 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2010 - 02:31 PM

I did check with a different plug. I also just noticed that the second you turn the key there is A spark and that's it. no I don't have another coil I could try...I checked ebay and I didnt find anything on there. when you say "signal" you mean like with a voltage meter?

#7 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2010 - 02:36 PM

I am not familiar with the 212 but if it sparks when the key is turned on it sounds like a bad ground or bad coil. If the motor uses points then the points are grounding out. I don't know what motor is in your 212, I am guessing maybe a Kohler.

#8 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2010 - 02:38 PM

When I said signal I meant whether it is a points style ignition or a magneto it sends a lower voltage signal to the coil. There should be two wires besides the spark plug wire on the coil, one I am pretty sure goes to the ignition switch and the other is the signal wire, there should be voltage in that wire the same time the spark plug would normally spark.

#9 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2010 - 03:10 PM

It will be a K301 Kohler. Get a volt meter & make sure 12V is getting to the + side of the coil. If it is, they check for the 12V while cranking engine over. If 12V is there both sitting & cranking, then you have an issue with the points, coil, or condenser. Points should be set at a static gap of .018 to .020". Be sure points contacts are clean & don't look burned. A quick check to test the coil...take points cover off, turn engine till points break open, then with key on, use a good shiny screwdriver tip & make contact between the points. You should have a good spark when you do this when you remove the connection. Check this, then get back with us.

#10 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2010 - 05:01 PM

When I said signal I meant whether it is a points style ignition or a magneto it sends a lower voltage signal to the coil. There should be two wires besides the spark plug wire on the coil, one I am pretty sure goes to the ignition switch and the other is the signal wire, there should be voltage in that wire the same time the spark plug would normally spark.


Yep, with points OPEN, both sides of the coil should read 12VDC. If only the one side has 12V and the points are open, or the wire removed from coil on the points side, then the coil is shot.

#11 mastifflawyer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2010 - 05:17 PM

You didn't say if you checked fuel as directed. Checking the spark as you did really does not indicate much, except that you do have spark. Many of my Kohlers look like they have weak spark.

#12 brzezinski01 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2010 - 06:39 PM

You didn't say if you checked fuel as directed. Checking the spark as you did really does not indicate much, except that you do have spark. Many of my Kohlers look like they have weak spark.


Fuel is there, the spark that I had was one spark and I can't get it to do that anymore. I got the points cover off and peaked around andeverything looked brand new in there, but I got rained out so I will try more tomorrow

thanks for the help everyone!!

#13 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2010 - 06:53 PM

If it's battery ignition, I like to use a test light for this test. The light should be on steady on the positive side and blink on the neg side. If it doesn't blink steady, look towards the points. The part about the spark happening one shot when he turns the key puts me in mind of electronic ignition. On a ford it happens when you shut the key off. usually in that case it is a bad module for the electronic ignition. I also test spark with a no. 2 phillips screw driver in the wire. I like to see at least 5X the plug gap outside the cylinder, especially on battery ignition.. It takes more to fire it under compression.

It will be a K301 Kohler. Get a volt meter & make sure 12V is getting to the + side of the coil. If it is, they check for the 12V while cranking engine over. If 12V is there both sitting & cranking, then you have an issue with the points, coil, or condenser. Points should be set at a static gap of .018 to .020". Be sure points contacts are clean & don't look burned. A quick check to test the coil...take points cover off, turn engine till points break open, then with key on, use a good shiny screwdriver tip & make contact between the points. You should have a good spark when you do this when you remove the connection. Check this, then get back with us.



#14 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2010 - 06:57 PM

Didn't read far enough, I see you do have points. I'd do the test light and see what happens. Remember, spark happens when the points OPEN!! If you have a batt and point ign and it sparks one time I'd think something on the primary has to be going open when its energenized. Doug


Fuel is there, the spark that I had was one spark and I can't get it to do that anymore. I got the points cover off and peaked around andeverything looked brand new in there, but I got rained out so I will try more tomorrow

thanks for the help everyone!!



#15 brzezinski01 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2010 - 07:02 PM

Didn't read far enough, I see you do have points. I'd do the test light and see what happens. Remember, spark happens when the points OPEN!! If you have a batt and point ign and it sparks one time I'd think something on the primary has to be going open when its energenized. Doug


ok...so what are suggesting I look for? lol.... points and carbs and all this stuff is before me lol I'm the EFI generation :)




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