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Mtd Fourteen Hundred Running Rough


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#1 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2012 - 05:28 PM

I recently replaced the coil on my 14hp cast briggs with an aftermarket electronic ignition coil.It fires up almost instantly but it sputters at all revs and will not idle.The Carb was rebuilt with a full overhaul Kit.It's acting like the spark timing is off.

Has anyone had similar problems converting a points engine to Electronic ignition?

Is my new coil at fault?I've converted a few of these old Briggs engines and this is the 1st one to give me troubles.


Is there timing marks on these old engines?I would like to put a timing light on it to try and figure out what's causing it to act like the spark timing is off.I know you can move the coil bracket a good bit if you take the flywheel off.But setting the timing with the Flywheel off would be almost impossible.

Edited by EricFromPa, November 14, 2012 - 06:35 PM.


#2 1978murray OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2012 - 05:34 PM

make sure the air gap between ur new coil and fly wheel is at .10. But before i do that I would replace the spark plug and clean the spark plug and coil conection. also u might have to retune ur motor if u didnt after a carb rebuild

#3 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2012 - 06:22 PM

The coil gap is set correctly and it has a new plug.I've pulled several used plugs out of some of my other equipment and tried them but they do the exact same thing.

I thought that the flywheel key may have been partly sheared so I took the flywheel off and inspected the crank and flywheel and the key.They are all in good condition.I have set the carb to where it runs it's best.It runs better if you put a load on it.Doesn't sputter near as bad as it does just sitting or moving around in lower gears.In 4th gear at about 1/2 throttle it pulls like a bear.

It's acting like the timing is either to far advanced or retarded.It will kick back when you 1st try to start it and then it turns over normally and starts up.

Reminds me of the engine in my old car when I had the distributor off a tooth.

#4 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2012 - 07:01 PM

ACHomesteader helped me with a magneto problem on my 23D B&S a month ago. He is very knowledgeable about the old engines. My post was "A/C Big Ten Magneto for a 23d B&s". He talked about polarizing the flywheel when converting to electronic magnetos. How well did it run before the coil was replaced? How is the valve lash? Good Luck

Edited by boyscout862, November 14, 2012 - 07:04 PM.

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#5 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2012 - 07:40 PM

ACHomesteader helped me with a magneto problem on my 23D B&S a month ago. He is very knowledgeable about the old engines. My post was "A/C Big Ten Magneto for a 23d B&s". He talked about polarizing the flywheel when converting to electronic magnetos. How well did it run before the coil was replaced? How is the valve lash? Good Luck


The engine did not run before I changed the Mag.The points were badly corroded from water getting in the cover (no gasket) and the condenser was burnt out.This is my 1st Cast iron briggs equipped with Starter Generator.The 4 other 16hp cast briggs I've had were a bit newer (mid 70s) with Ring gear starters.But they still had points and they were all converted to electronic ignition except 1.They all ran perfectly with the exception of 1 that had a badly worn valve stem.Smoked very very bad but didn't miss-fire and act up like this one.

I have another 14hp briggs down at the farm but I'll have to swap out the crank.I know it runs good but it has a very short crank and a pull start.It was on an old Generator at one time.It still has points.

I really don't want to use either engine as parts.They are both complete and run.

Edited by EricFromPa, November 14, 2012 - 07:46 PM.


#6 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2012 - 09:10 PM

Don't be too hasty. The problem with your engine is not internal but one of the external systems. Find the manual for the engine on GTT and trouble shoot the ignition. You may have to rig a light to indicate the spark. If there is an ignition, try cleaning all grounds first. If the ignition is okay, check the carb again. Sometimes dirt in the tank or fuel lines will screw up a newly rebuilt carb. Before you take the carb off try running it with Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas for awhile. One tablespoon to a gallon. If you have to take the carb off you can check the valve lash too while it is off. The valve tappet cover is behind the carb. If the lash is out of spec, you're going to have to take the head off to lap the valves and grind the stem tops. Read the manual on how to do these things and try readjusting the carb too. Good Luck

#7 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2012 - 09:23 PM

Did you look at my above mentioned thread? One referrence is to a B&S site on ignition and there are several others and a good explanation by achomesteader.

#8 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2012 - 06:40 AM

I think this $29.95 shipped coil is junk.

The kill wire lead is on the bottom like it should be.But the Spark plug lead is also on the bottom.I've never seen a coil with the Spark lead on the bottom side of the coil.

Maybe I have the coil upside down?Will they even fire if they're like that?

I'm going to put the original coil back on and get me one of those cheap Mega II modules.I can't afford to buy a good Briggs OEM coil for it till spring.But I need it to run for the winter months for snow removal.Found a Mega II module for $15 shipped.I'm going to give it a try.

Edited by EricFromPa, November 16, 2012 - 06:41 AM.


#9 undertaker OFFLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2012 - 09:53 AM

Shot in the dark here...... if it runs better under load is it possible that the ports in your carb have been filed ....I have heard of some pullers filing the ports wider so that they pull better under a load...they apparently run rough other than when they are being worked hard...you could try another carb to test it.

#10 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2012 - 10:15 AM

I rebuilt the carb with a full kit.It came with both high speed and low speed needle valves,main jet,gaskets,float and float needle and new springs and rubber O rings for the needle valves.It's a NOS Briggs carb kit that our local farm supply place had.They have a good bit of old NOS Briggs,clinton and some Wisconsin parts.

My neighbor bought a NOS Zenith carb from them for his Bolens 850.


I'm bringing the other 14hp Briggs up from the farm today.I'll try the carb off of it but it's not the carb that's at fault.When you go to turn it over it acts like the timing is off.It's like trying to start a car with the timing advanced a good bit.It will hit then stall the starter then hit then start up.

It turns over quick with the coil kill wire grounded out but stalls the starter with it in run position the 1st couple turns.It will almost kick the starter backwards.

Edited by EricFromPa, November 23, 2012 - 10:25 AM.


#11 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2012 - 10:35 AM

OK made some progress on the 1400.
Put the original coil back on and put one of those Nova II modules on.Got it for $8 locally,it was alot cheaper than buying new points and condenser and a heck of alot easier to install.

I turned the key and it starts up and runs PERFECT.I mean it runs better than any lawn tractor engine I've had in a long time.It can be running at low Idle and I can drop it in 3rd gear and let the clutch out and it just goes.Doesn't even try to bog down.Now I have to work on getting the front tires off and replaced with these AGs that I found down at the scrap yard the other day.They're off of a newer front tine tiller that came in for scrap.They're the exact same size as the original tires and are in really good condition.

I would like to put 4 ply rib tires on the front but I don't have the money for them.

I also found a set of factory IH stamped dual wheel adapters but I'm going to hang on to those till I find another good set of narrow rims.Then I'm going to put duals on her.This is going to be cool.I'll post video of it running as soon as I figure out why my camera has no sound after I transfer it to my PC.

Edited by EricFromPa, December 04, 2012 - 10:39 AM.


#12 undertaker OFFLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2012 - 07:33 PM

that good to hear I have another MTD that I may have to use one of those modules on ...glad to hear that it worked so well

#13 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2012 - 05:35 PM

Ya it works really good and very simple to hook up.It is a little harder to start though for some reason but it runs SMOOTH and has the power that it should.

Harder to start as in you have to turn it over a few more times to get it to fire.My old coil may be a little weak.

After you get it started you can knock it down to idle rite away.And it will sit there and purrrrrr.

Well worth the $8.00 and 15 minutes to take the hood,grill,starter genny pulley,pto pulley,blower housing and regulator off.It sparked the instant that I turned the key.I'm going to buy a couple more of these and put them in a ziploc bag for later.The price is good and the outcome so far is well worth it.




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