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1614 Not Charging, Help!


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#1 AV430 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2012 - 06:11 PM

Well guys diagnosing electrical issues has always baffled me. Mechanical I am pretty confident but I've never been able to get my head around electrical circuits. On my new to me 1975 1614 the battery is not receiving a charge. After replacing the battery when I first bought it I slowly drained the battery during use. I checked the voltage at the battery while the engine is running and it is below 12 volts. I suspected the regulator rectifier and was surprised that it wasn't located on the blower housing like my other K321's. I am guessing the rectifier is located engine side in the center of the dash? The reason I ask is it looks different than others I have seen. I was going to check the two AC leads coming from the stator but the plug leading to the rectifier will not come off. I pulled and pry-ed but I am afraid of breaking it. What am I missing here? Shouldn't this plug just come off? Seems like it's glued or something. Maybe PO issues? Also, I noticed that the negative battery cable where it attach es to the frame is rusted. Will a weak ground at the battery keep it from charging? Here are a couple pictures of the under dash wiring. Thanks in advance! Adam

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#2 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2012 - 06:27 PM

Yes, a rusted connection of any type can cause charging/starting issues.

#3 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2012 - 06:27 PM

A bad connection like rust will create havoc with an electrical system. That is the first thing you should check when having a charging problem. Clean all your connections, reconnect them tightly and check your voltage at the batter with the engine running at full speed, you should have at least 13.5 volts or better.

That plug on the regulator / rectifier should come off and you should check your connection there as well.

#4 AV430 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2012 - 06:45 PM

Thanks guys! I am still in the "getting to know you" stage with this tractor and working through the small issues it has. Adam

#5 jms180 ONLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2012 - 07:52 PM

If you cant get the connector off and need to check the ac out i have used straight pin to punch through the wire insulation then use alligator clips to connect meter leads. Just make sure to offset pin so they dont touch and shot out.

#6 AV430 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2012 - 07:12 AM

Thanks for the tip Jms180! I might have to try that.

#7 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2012 - 07:48 AM

I've never seen a rectifier like that either. It looks to be in good shape and fairly new. The other connection that needs to be clean is where the rectifier itself mounts to the dash. Corrosion there can cause problems. The rectifier itself looks good but how is the mounting surface on the dash?

#8 AV430 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2012 - 09:04 AM

David, the surface beneath the rectifier is painted. I also thought this strange since the rectifier should be grounded. On the original stock PK setup is the rectifier mounted on bare metal?

#9 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2012 - 09:43 AM

David, the surface beneath the rectifier is painted. I also thought this strange since the rectifier should be grounded. On the original stock PK setup is the rectifier mounted on bare metal?


Anything I've seen has been painted but usually bare around the bolts. I'm with the other in leaning toward the plug though. Once you get that off and cleaned up I'll bet she starts charging. I had a rectifier that looked just awful and it would stop charging every once in a while. Turns out the plug was loose so I took black electrical tape and wrapped it around the rectifier and plug to keep them in good contact. Worked well ever since. Rectifiers are picky.

#10 jms180 ONLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2012 - 10:16 AM

David, the surface beneath the rectifier is painted. I also thought this strange since the rectifier should be grounded. On the original stock PK setup is the rectifier mounted on bare metal?

If you think your not getting a good ground due to paint connect another ground wire to mounting bolt.

#11 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2012 - 11:07 AM

AV, in your OP you stated "Also, I noticed that the negative battery cable where it attach es to the frame is rusted. Will a weak ground at the battery keep it from charging?" The answer is yes, this is the first place I would start. Take the connection apart and clean both the connector and frame really well. Also check your positive connections as well. Make sure your connections to the battery are clean and tight and check to see if it is charging.

#12 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2012 - 01:46 PM

AV, in your OP you stated "Also, I noticed that the negative battery cable where it attach es to the frame is rusted. Will a weak ground at the battery keep it from charging?" The answer is yes, this is the first place I would start. Take the connection apart and clean both the connector and frame really well. Also check your positive connections as well. Make sure your connections to the battery are clean and tight and check to see if it is charging.


But that would prevent it from running as well, wouldn't it?
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#13 AV430 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2012 - 01:46 PM

Thanks guys! All good points and I plan on starting with the negative battery cable mount. Time is tight for me this week but I will keep you all informed. Adam

#14 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2012 - 02:01 PM

But that would prevent it from running as well, wouldn't it?

Not necessarily, I have had connections where if the battery had a good charge it would get the starter to engage but not recharge the battery. Case in point recently my wife's van had a loose - battery terminal. The van would start but don't let leave a door ajar for over 10 minutes because the battery would not have enough juice to crank. Replaced the terminal and put a full charge on the battery and it has been fine.
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#15 AV430 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 21, 2012 - 07:00 PM

Well I still can not get that freaking terminal loose from the regulator/rectifier. I have tried prying and pulling till I am going to break it but its still locked on. Previous owner definitely glued it with something, maybe it kept coming loose for him? Anyway, I decided to insert straight pins into the AC wires coming from the stator just to get a quick reading of the voltage. I got 26 volts AC but I was just laying the lead on the pins so I think the stator is good. I checked the 2 yellow wires coming out of the regulator/rectifier and they were at 12.34 volts DC. All the wires at the various switches were also at 12.34 volts as well as the battery. This is while the tractor is running at WOT. Shouldn't I have more like 13.5 volts at the battery in order for it to be charging? Any suggestions? Adam





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