Kohler K Series Head Gasket Replacement-basic Tutorial
Posted November 10, 2012 - 06:36 AM
Posted November 10, 2012 - 06:53 AM
Posted November 10, 2012 - 07:39 AM
Posted December 03, 2012 - 07:44 PM
'Most' engine torque specs are based on a new or clean bolt. They also assume a clean bolt hole or nut and oil libricant. Standard motor oil, weight doesn't really matter. Don't use a moly lube unless a torque spec is given for use with moly lube, It lubes much better than oil and you can end up with too much pressure being applied. Torque specs can vary quite a lot if oil isn't used so always assume oil is used as a lubricant. As mentioned run a tap or 'thread chaser' into the block to clean out any rust or dirt and blow it out with a compressor if possible. Also use a tap or thread chasser on the bolt. Torque the bolts in increments and in the proper sequence. If the spec is 30 ft/lb, then torque in sequence from 15 or 20 ft/lb, then in sequence at an additional 5 ft/lb until the final torque spec is reached. Run the engine until it's fully warmed up. That means under load, not just at idle. After the engine has cooled re-torque to the required spec in the correct sequence again and you should be good to go. Most gaskets will compress so checking them after a heat up/cool down cycle is a good idea.
If the bolts are 30-40 years old, like found on many of these tractors, just replace them. If the torque settings have changed again after a second heat up/cool down you need to replace the bolts, they're shot. Grade 8 bolts are $3.99 or $4.99 a pound, can't remember which, at Tractor Supply. They do stretch and once they've stretched, well just toss them and replace with new. Once they've stretched the thread spacing has changed and the torque specs are meaning less.
Posted December 12, 2012 - 02:43 PM