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1964 Briggs 23d Valve Clearance Adjustment


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#1 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2012 - 07:03 PM

As people in the Economy section know I just recently bought and brought back to life a 1964 Power King with a Briggs 23D. She runs good but has a slight tapping inside and doesn't want to open up quite right and has no power so I'm assuming valves are out of adjustment but not sure. Does anyone have a tutorial on how to do this and does anyone possibly know the clearance for the valves and torque of the head bolts? Also I have a brand new head, would it be wise to swap the old one out for the new one or should I hold on to it for a later date or possibly a rebuild. Thanks in advance.

#2 drbish ONLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2012 - 07:23 PM

Here is a little bit of help
http://www.briggsand...-D-Domestic.pdf
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#3 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2012 - 07:58 PM

Thanks! That's very informative

Edited by farmer, November 08, 2012 - 08:01 PM.


#4 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2012 - 08:48 PM

I'd save the new head until you really need it. Before you take the head off, try running it with a little Marvel Mystery oil in the gas. This will help clean the upper cylinder, lubricate the valves, and help loosen the rings. If the ticking is because of a chip of carbon stuck on the valve seat, it may clean that off too. Parts for rebuilding the 23D are getting hard to find and expensive. Especially magnetoes, pistons and rods. Good Luck
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#5 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2012 - 09:49 PM

I've ran some marvels in the gas already but probably only have about a hour or run time on it. Thanks about the head suggestion. hold on to it.

#6 1978murray OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2012 - 08:29 AM

run gas treatment in gas. my 7hp on panzer runs like junk unless it has treatment in the fuel
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#7 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2012 - 02:51 PM

Ill try some. I may pull the head off it tonight just for the heck of it though to clean up possible carbon in it unless you guys think that's a bad idea. Intake is .007 to .009 and exhaust is .017 to .019 from what I can find. Just so if anyone finds this in a search and needs it!

#8 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2012 - 07:05 AM

Would the carburetor float set incorrectly cause no power? I took the head off last night and cleaned the valves up and what not but didn't check the gap because I realized my gauge wasn't on me. The engine revs up kind of slow but gets to wot but as soon as you put it in gear the rpms drop. When I took it for its test run a few days ago it seemed fine but is loosing power as we speak. I noticed the piston is a little lose so she's going to at least need rings and I have a air leak at the intake. My driveway is uphill and I test stuff by driving up it. When I just rebuilt the Carb it went up the hill in third but last night I had to pull it in first. The rpms drop and it has no power. Compressions pretty good though and it starts on the first pull of the rope with no choke even when its cold. Also the specs state to turn the main yet 1 and 3/4 out as a place to start but mine won't thing about running until 2.5 turns out.

#9 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2012 - 08:15 AM

Yes carb float setting can effect power. I would suspect a little dirt in the fuel tank, filter, line or carb. That can present a growing problem as the passage gets more and more plugged. The piston should have a tiny bit of play. You should also suspect the magneto on this engine. They are notorius for erratic spark when they get old.

Is the head still off? Did you remove the valves to clean them? If it is still apart you might as well lap the valves and check the gaps. Inspect the cylinder bore at the same time. You probably took the carb off so take it apart and blow out the passages. The intake air leak can be a big problem. That needs to be resolved! There are three gaskets for mounting: carb to manifold, manifold to shield, shield to block. They all need to be a tight seal.

Before opening an engine you should exhaust all diagnosis tools and techniques. There are many good books that lay out the proceedures step by step. Good Luck
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#10 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2012 - 06:18 PM

I had actually already out the head back on. I want to get some books before I start messing around to much. It ended up being something so simple that I feel stupid. The throttle cable
Has to nuts on it for adjusting and it needed to be adjusted up a little further. It was enough to go to high rpm but not enough to where the governor would pull it back down. Thanks for your help though!

#11 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2012 - 08:27 AM

Great to hear that its fixed! That old engine will run a long time but it pays to baby it. Keep it clean, do the maintenance and remember it was designed for leaded gas. I have used Marvel Mystery Oil(MMO) in my old engines for 45 years now(when I first got my license). I use a tablespoonful of MMO in each gallon of gas for my toys and am convinced that they run better because of it. Check a thread of mine on 23Ds about a month ago. ACHomesteader straightened me out and provided several excellant links. All the manuals that you need can be down loaded here or from links from here, for free. Keep you eyes open for parts engines too. I saved a blown one at the dump that proved critical to getting another working. Good Luck

Edited by boyscout862, November 13, 2012 - 08:30 AM.





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