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#16 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2012 - 07:33 PM

:welcometogttalk: I don't know a lot about the BOLENS, but from what you are telling us, and what I see in the pictures, $150 is a real good deal! :dancingbanana:

#17 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2012 - 05:27 AM

Welcome to the forum.Glad to have you with us.A real deal for $150.

#18 tasthree OFFLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2012 - 09:09 AM

Just called the guy at the shop and told him I'll take it. Should have it home in a couple of hours so I can get more details on it to figure out what it is.

#19 tasthree OFFLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2012 - 07:51 PM

old buzzard you might as well take that trailer back because the GT is sitting in my yard on my trailer. Been messin with it and on the puter half the day trying to figure out what it is. Still don't know. The heat shield is gone along with the tractor's ID sticker. The engine sticker is gone. The only sticker that I found was under like four layers of paint is a large operating and maintenance sticker on the inside on left hand of the hood. I found a alum tag on the sundstrand transaxle. Says mod# 90-1153 RH. Serial# 05-UE 18452. Did some paint cleaning with laquer thinner and steel wool to look at the layers of paint. This thing has been painted many times. I'm not sure if all the first layers listed are primers or paints. Outside of frame 1st layer was grayish, 2nd was black,3rd was red,4th is green. Inside of frame was 1st layer grayish, 2nd tanish,3rd black,4th is green. Engine 1st layer was tanish, 2nd was black, 3rd is green. rear wheel 1st layer was pea greenish, 2nd was grayish, 3rd was white, 4th is green. Panel 1st layer was pea greenish, 2nd was dark green, 3rd was black, 4th is green. Hood near hinge is I believe 1st layer was pea greenish, 2nd white, 3rd was black, 4th was white, 5th was red, 6th is white. It has what I think is a round hydrostacic temp light below the choke lever. It had a seat interlock switch which is gone. Does any of this help anyone figure out what model this is. It has to be at least a 1886-05. Is there any other tell tale items to look at?

Edited by tasthree, November 08, 2012 - 07:54 PM.


#20 wilberj ONLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2012 - 08:10 PM

Can you get me a pic of the dash and dash tower?

#21 OldBuzzard OFFLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2012 - 08:53 PM

DANG!!!!

Actually, I was just pulling wilber's chain. :D :D :D

If anyone can identify which tractor you have, it's wilber. He's the Large Frame Guru here, and is especially good with the 1886/HT18.

#22 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2012 - 08:56 PM

Bet ya she'll fire up after you clean the points and change the condenser.

The front wheels have lugs like an HT20 and the seat mount is HT20

Edited by EricFromPa, November 08, 2012 - 09:10 PM.


#23 tasthree OFFLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2012 - 10:19 PM

I'll get the pic tomorrow. What exactly is the dash tower? Speaking of the seat mount. I don't think that's original because of the way its mounted and the other holes in the body. That is unless they had various hole predrilled and they used some and not others that were left empty. I'll get pics of that also. Would that engine be a k482s. Still wading thru information and trying to figure which I need so I can get manual info and parts diagrams. What condensor would I use. I've got three vehicles that are still on points so I'm familiar on dealing with them. I took it to the car wash and gave er a good wash down before coming home. Who ever painted it before really painted everything. Nooks and crannies most people would skip. Places where they shouldn't have also like some of the head cooling fins. The last green layer I think is brush on rustoleum.

#24 tasthree OFFLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2012 - 10:32 PM

Before I posted I had a senior moment and forgot to ask. The guy at the shop said there should be a point conversion kit available. Is this true? Are they any good or worth it? If so what would I get if instead of getting new points and conden

#25 8tyman8 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2012 - 10:40 PM

Before I posted I had a senior moment and forgot to ask. The guy at the shop said there should be a point conversion kit available. Is this true? Are they any good or worth it? If so what would I get if instead of getting new points and conden

they do but they are hard to find and are not cheep (dont quote me there $300 plus) Id get it running then worry about the blade situation or i would look for a front Blade post a wanted add on kijiji or cragslist

#26 OldBuzzard OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2012 - 02:30 AM

The 1886s-05 and HT18 used the Kohler K482S-35208B engine. The earlier 1886 tractors used the K482S-35113B engine. The HT20 used the K532S, and the HT23 the K582S

By the dash tower, I'm pretty sure he means the area under the dash as well, similar to this pic.

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Edited by OldBuzzard, November 09, 2012 - 02:31 AM.


#27 tasthree OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2012 - 10:01 AM

A couple more pics. What I can figure on the engine so far is the carb is a side draft. Found some numbers cast on engine. On pass side under carb is D171. On driver side there looks to be a plug in the block. Forward of the plug is 45006 and behind the plug is 01 and a symbol the looks like a joined U and F. Its hard to tell in the dash pic but below the meter is a cutout for another guage that is still plugged.

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#28 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2012 - 01:27 PM

45006 is showing up as a part number for a 23hp blower housing.

90-1153-RH is Sunstrand transaxle for 1886-05/06

Your seat and mounting brackets are not stock.

Front wheel hubs are HT20/23


I'm thinking that your Bolens is a Mutt.Or parts from several different tractors.

Edited by EricFromPa, November 09, 2012 - 01:29 PM.


#29 tasthree OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2012 - 02:03 PM

Started messing with it to see if I could get it to start. At the shop the other day we tried starting it and it wouldn't start. We checked it with a spark tester and it had no spark. Today I checked coil with ohm meter. With meter leads connected to studs on coil meter goes to 0. Is this primary? Hooked neg meter lead to studs and pos meter lead to leads on coil and I get nothing. Is this secondary and does this mean I have a open secondary which means the coil is bad? Since I don't know for sure what engine I have I don't know what coil, points, condensor or plugs to get. Do engines in the same family use the same ignition parts or does each engine need a specific items.? The only markings on the coil I see is 12V M. Points looked good Plugs were ok but one was a Champion H10C and one was RH10C. Does this make any differance and if so which is correct? Pic is of coil. Didn't relize it was blurry till I loaded it. Its a dual lead coil. While reading about other things I've gathered these coils are rather pricy. Any suggestions on where may have decient prices. Dang it anywhay. I was hoping to make a larger carbon footprint with it today.

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#30 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2012 - 02:10 PM

The wire going to the points is the primary. You will have to disconnect it from the points and condenser to test between it and ground. It should be 1-2 ohms. Check the secondary across the 2 plug leads. It should be in the 5-10 Kohm range.




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