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Hydraulic System Flush?


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#1 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2012 - 08:35 PM

So here the situtaion, The D200 basket case I got at the first of the year has a bad hydro system in it. The rear diff exploded and metal pieces went through the hydro system (sundstrand 15 variant). The valve plates and the cylinder block mating surfaces were severly scored in both the pump and motor sections. I managed to fix the motor by lapping the valve plates and cylinder block, but I didnt tear into the pump. This managed to make the GT useable for mowing and such but the hydro is still weak, especially when the oil gets hot.

So now its time to get to the pump. I purchased a used pump from Joes, but its input shaft has been stripped of its splines. Thats OK because I was wanting the internal parts for my pump. I also managed to get another hydro motor cheap and its in great shape. I plan on rebuilding my original pump with the parts from the used pump and installing the new hydro motor. This should give me a "new" hydro system.

The Hydro system on a D series is called a "split system". The pump is only connected to the motor by a high pressure manifold and tubing. This consists of two mating plates, one at each end of the tubing and four seperate steel tubes connected to the manifolds. Its the only part That I am not replaceing. I want to flush this out to make sure I dont have any metal shavings left in there. If they are left in then the pump and motor will be destroyed as soon as I start it up.

So does anyone have any suggestions on what to use as a flushing fluid. Something that will not harm the system if it dosent all get out before I use it. The fluid used in these systems is 10W30 or straight 30w oil, cant remember right now.

#2 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2012 - 08:39 PM

Pic of manifold, apporximatley 24 inches end to end.

Pic stolen from Joes OPE website.



manifold.JPG

#3 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2012 - 08:49 PM

Are you flushing manually with a hand sprayer, or are you talking about running the unit to flush, then drain? If doing manually, I'd think diesel fuel would work fine, and a little left won't do harm. One thing TO DO....place a rare earth magnet either inside the trans reservoir, or on the outside of it to catch & hold any left over or future particles. This won't catch the brass particles, but it's the steel that does the damage anyway.
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#4 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2012 - 09:48 PM

I will be manually flushing the system.
hadnt thought about the magnet, Thanks.


#5 Enginerod OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2012 - 08:50 AM

Coldone, I have never flushed a set of lines like that but I have flushed out automatic transmission coolers and lines in cars and trucks. Generally you just get a couple cans of brake cleaner, it cleans very well and leaves no residue like carb cleaner will. There is also a product made specifically for flushing these coolers and lines and is available at auto parts stores, it comes in a pressurized can and works well. I would just use the brake cleaner and blow them out with compressed air, just run the cleaner through till its clear and blow them out. Hope this helps.
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#6 willy OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2012 - 04:26 PM

HI a magnet works great . I flushed out my Case 190 trans twice with diesel fuel and then twice with cheap 30 wt . worked very good .
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