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Mf 10/12 Deck Lift Lever Repair Question


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#1 MF10 DIESEL OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2012 - 07:46 PM

The lift lever tube is bent badly on the 12H, it's so bad that the button won't hardly move and when it does the rod must be beat back in with a hammer! I fixed the one on my 68 10G, just unthreaded the button, took out the rod, removed the set screw, a shot of penetrating oil and it was off of the lower casting. A little finesse in the 20 ton press and it was like new.

This one is in there good. I have given it the PB blaster threatment for a few days, even had the MAPP gas torch on it in tandem with vise grips and a hammer. It isn't budging, I can't get the casting to slide off of the tractor either. Tried my parts tractor for giggles and it is stuck like a rock as well.

I am thinking of making a "puller" in the lathe that has a slip fit collar which attaches to the tube with 3 big set screws, it would have 2 fine thread bolts which push on a thick plate which sets on the casting below. put some pressure on the forcing screws and heat up the casting and it should lift up out of there.

Unless someone has a better idea...


#2 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2012 - 08:18 PM

That tube should come out, if you have the set screw removed, try a pipe wrench on the tube and see if you can twist it out.
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#3 MF10 DIESEL OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2012 - 09:01 PM

That tube should come out, if you have the set screw removed, try a pipe wrench on the tube and see if you can twist it out.


I had vise grips on the tube, beat on the grip with a shorty maul, after heating the casting below to expand it. Vise grips were cutting metal the width of the jaws.

#4 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2012 - 09:50 PM

Is the MAPP getting the outer piece red hot?
Any way to heat the casting and keep the tube cooler? Maybe a constant dribble of water thru the tube while you heat the casting? Any way to get max temp differentials without stressing the cast piece.

My Grandpa always swore that a candle was the best way to get stuff like that out (limited success personally)
He would heat the outer piece cherry hot then apply a candle to the crack and let the wax wick in. (it will catch fire).

#5 MF10 DIESEL OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2012 - 12:22 AM

Is the MAPP getting the outer piece red hot?
Any way to heat the casting and keep the tube cooler? Maybe a constant dribble of water thru the tube while you heat the casting? Any way to get max temp differentials without stressing the cast piece.

My Grandpa always swore that a candle was the best way to get stuff like that out (limited success personally)
He would heat the outer piece cherry hot then apply a candle to the crack and let the wax wick in. (it will catch fire).


I'm not getting it red hot, I suspect this little cylinder would take quite a while to do that. I might try a pipe wrench later in the week, but I think it's beyond that. Just need to get it fixed before the snow falls here. The wife says she wants a blade on "her" tractor.

#6 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2012 - 07:01 AM

If anyone you know has an Ox/Ac torch, I would try that, start working with a little hotter temp.

#7 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2012 - 07:15 AM

Ditto, on getting it hotter. Even if the tube gets hot, just that expansion/contraction shud help break the rust bond.

#8 MF10 DIESEL OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2012 - 05:03 PM

That tube should come out, if you have the set screw removed, try a pipe wrench on the tube and see if you can twist it out.


I tried a 14" pipe wrench with a 2' persuader and it started moving with no heat. Kept working it and spraying PB Blaster on it and it finally loosened up. Put vise grips on it and beat it up out of the bore with the shorty maul. Now to straighten it in the press.

#9 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2012 - 05:15 PM

I tried a 14" pipe wrench with a 2' persuader and it started moving with no heat. Kept working it and spraying PB Blaster on it and it finally loosened up. Put vise grips on it and beat it up out of the bore with the shorty maul. Now to straighten it in the press.


Glad you got it out, sometimes that method works and sometimes it doesn't. :thumbs:

#10 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2012 - 06:11 PM

Good to hear it's free. Hopefully it straightens out and doesn't have a predisposition for bending there.

#11 MF10 DIESEL OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2012 - 10:31 PM

I straightened it in the press and ground the tool marks off of the bottom of the tube. I wire wheeled the end of the tube, ran a coarse bore brush into the casting, flushed the rust out of the casting with brakeclean. Anti seized the bore and tube. Put everything back together and it works like a charm. I will have to turn some new release buttons on the lathe but for now they are useable. So, I'll put lights, chains, and a blade on it. It looks like the wife has a tractor.

I theorize these are getting bent by being snagged on obstacles while mowing etc. They are pretty thick steel and I think the machine is more the likely the one generating the force to bend the tube.

#12 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2012 - 03:47 AM

That's good to hear, you've got it fixed. I was looking through my carcasses yesterday morning, and saw
that I have a couple extras. Was going to offer you one. Postage would have been steep.


" I think the machine is more the likely the one generating the force to bend the tube"

LOL, of yeah sure, blame the poor defenceless tractor. LOL




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