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Starter Generator Basics


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#16 Kurtee OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2012 - 02:15 PM

I took the S/G off my 70 and took it to a professional auto electric shop and had them look at it. I don't remember all the problems but 2 things I do remember. These are that the regulator has to be tweaked to match the generator and to always have a good battery in the machine. If it has to constantly work at charging the battery it will burn out.

#17 Bigdaddydon OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2012 - 04:40 PM

All the test seem to be for the Generator part of the system. My issue is with the starting part.

I have 12.6 volts at the battery, 12.6 v at the input side of the solenoid.

When I turn the key to start I get 10.7v a the output side of the solenoid and 10.7v at the terminal on the starter.

Is dropping 2 volts right? It is a brand new solenoid.

If I take jumper cables and go straight from the battery to the starter It still acts the same. It just will not turn fast enought to start the engine. I can pull start the engine fairly easily but the starter cannot get 2 revolutions out of the motor.
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#18 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2012 - 03:48 AM

I have 12.6 volts at the battery, 12.6 v at the input side of the solenoid.

When I turn the key to start I get 10.7v a the output side of the solenoid and 10.7v at the terminal on the starter.

Is dropping 2 volts right? It is a brand new solenoid. Try disconnecting the wire from the terminal on the starter, and re-check the voltage at the end of the wire. .....You should be seeing the 12.6v battery voltage when the key switch is turned to the START position. .....If your reading is less than 12.5 volts, your wire connections, key switch, or solenoid are faulty. ....If your reading is still at 12.5-12.6 volts, the problem is in your battery or starter.


If I take jumper cables and go straight from the battery to the starter It still acts the same. It just will not turn fast enought to start the engine. I can pull start the engine fairly easily but the starter cannot get 2 revolutions out of the motor.
Try jumping from your car battery to the tractor battery. ....Does the starter now turn faster? ...If so, your battery is probably the problem. .....If the starter still turns slowly, your starter is faulty.


The field coils and armature windings are used for both starting and charging.

#19 Trent Thomson OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2012 - 06:08 PM

This all sounds similar to the problems I am trying to figure out. If the battery is all charged up it will start, but slowly.If I boost it to the battery it cranks about one turn, if I put the cables to the starter it will start. I have an electric winch hooked to it to raise the attachments and it doesn't take long for it to kill the battery, but when I take the battery out and check it with a meter it is reading 12v. This is baffeling me but my electrical knowledge is limited also. Any thoughts?

#20 Bigdaddydon OFFLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2012 - 06:52 PM

I took one of the SG to a rebuilder, I have not heard back from him as of yet. In the mean time, I decided to order one of the SG's from DB Electric off Ebay.

I hooked it up and now I know how a starter should sound. It hummed without laboring at all. I have had 4 Starters and non of them even came close to acting like this one.

The SG cost 140.00 so in hind sight after rebuilding 2 and buying a used one off ebay I would have been way ahead to buy this in the first place.

#21 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2012 - 08:46 AM

I've had my last one rebuilt. The new ones have a bearing at the back instead of a bushing, and they just work better.
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