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Starter Generator Basics


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#1 Bigdaddydon OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2012 - 09:31 PM

So I have had nothing but trouble with all my S/Gs. I was viewing some testing on U tube and noticed their starter "freewheeled" when engaged w/o the belt. Mine all do not spin at very high rpms and when i turn the key off they stop immediately. The ones on u tube would spin after key off.

What do you think the problem is? I always thought it was the engine compression release not working but after viewing and testing it appears it is more of a starter problem. I replaced the brushes on one and cleaned it up but no noticable difference.

#2 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2012 - 09:45 PM

Did you replace the bearing/bushings?

#3 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2012 - 09:47 PM

I posted an article on how to test the functions of a starter generator, do a search for it, it might just help you.
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#4 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2012 - 09:49 PM

http://gardentractor...r-generator-r78
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#5 8tyman8 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2012 - 10:18 PM

So I have had nothing but trouble with all my S/Gs. I was viewing some testing on U tube and noticed their starter "freewheeled" when engaged w/o the belt. Mine all do not spin at very high rpms and when i turn the key off they stop immediately. The ones on u tube would spin after key off.

What do you think the problem is? I always thought it was the engine compression release not working but after viewing and testing it appears it is more of a starter problem. I replaced the brushes on one and cleaned it up but no noticable difference.

S/G are a very finicky unit when they work they work awesome i would suggest you replace the bushings and bearings also remove the field windings (if you can) the s/g on my 1254 would generate some times and act like the battery was dead turns out the field winging was shorting out on frame

#6 Bigdaddydon OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2012 - 10:36 PM

I posted an article on how to test the functions of a starter generator, do a search for it, it might just help you.


I found the article and it will be a big help but first, my issue is that the starter does not seem to be acting as it should when trying to start the engine. With the belt off should it spin at high rpms and continue spinning when the key is turned off? or should it come to an abrupt stop when the key is turned off?

#7 RoosterLew OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2012 - 01:03 AM

Remove the field windings (if you can) f

Why would you remove the field windings?

#8 drbish OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2012 - 03:57 AM

Here is a link to a repair manual
http://gardentractor...arging-systems/

#9 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2012 - 04:24 AM

I have found its better to just buy a new one, I have had them rebuilt and they just work as well.

#10 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2012 - 04:26 AM

Bad bushings/ bearings will cause your Starter Generator to run slower if they are worn out. .....

#11 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2012 - 05:47 AM

How about if you remove the belt and try spinning it by hand ? Maybe you could see if there is a drag ( bearings , rust , dirt ect ) Al

#12 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2012 - 06:51 AM

With the belt off should it spin at high rpms and continue spinning when the key is turned off? or should it come to an abrupt stop when the key is turned off?


It should continue spinning. As suggested, your bearings are bad. You might want to take it to an automotive/electric shop, and
have it totally rebuilt. Then you'll have a known good working one, that'll be your benchmark, to diagnose the other ones
giving you grief.

#13 Bigdaddydon OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2012 - 07:55 AM

How about if you remove the belt and try spinning it by hand ? Maybe you could see if there is a drag ( bearings , rust , dirt ect ) Al


They do not feel like there is any restriction, they spin free and continue spinning for a bit after you give it a spin.

Why would you remove the field windings?


Is there a way to test the field windings while on the S/G?

I have seen where you have to correst the polarity by grounding the A terminal breifly. If the polarity was reversed would that cause it to act like it is. I have tried the method several times but not sure it does everything.
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#14 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2012 - 09:11 AM

Is there a way to test the field windings while on the S/G?

I have seen where you have to correst the polarity by grounding the A terminal breifly. If the polarity was reversed would that cause it to act like it is. I have tried the method several times but not sure it does everything.


The field windings can be tested without removing them, but I believe they need to be tested once the s/g is opened up. .....The brushes need to be insulated from the armature to prevent false readings. .....The field coils are tested using a continuity tester. ....The field coils should have no significant resistance (continuity) across both leads of the winding. .....There should be no continuity between either coil lead and the case of the s/g (continuity here means the field coil is shorted to ground).

I don't believe you are correctly polarizing the s/g by grounding the Armature terminal of the s/g. ....The generator and regulator are polarized by momentarily connecting the BAT and ARM terminals at the regulator. .....Some people suggest that this isn't necessary as polarization takes place when the starter is operated, but it won't hurt to do it as suggested by some manuals.

The armature can also be tested once it is removed from the case. .....A burnt winding in the armature can cause it to turn slowly.

#15 8tyman8 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2012 - 11:03 AM

The field windings can be tested without removing them, but I believe they need to be tested once the s/g is opened up. .....The brushes need to be insulated from the armature to prevent false readings. .....The field coils are tested using a continuity tester. ....The field coils should have no significant resistance (continuity) across both leads of the winding. .....There should be no continuity between either coil lead and the case of the s/g (continuity here means the field coil is shorted to ground).

I don't believe you are correctly polarizing the s/g by grounding the Armature terminal of the s/g. ....The generator and regulator are polarized by momentarily connecting the BAT and ARM terminals at the regulator. .....Some people suggest that this isn't necessary as polarization takes place when the starter is operated, but it won't hurt to do it as suggested by some manuals.

The armature can also be tested once it is removed from the case. .....A burnt winding in the armature can cause it to turn slowly.

Why would you remove the field windings?

mine i removed the ground to the case so i had 2 wires for the start/gen winding and checked the resistance to the field then the one field wire to the case it would read resistance some times and none other times that S/g made me stumped turned out that there was wear on the insulation causing the field to ground out and it would make the engine bog down




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