
Starter Generator Basics
#1
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Posted October 28, 2012 - 09:31 PM
What do you think the problem is? I always thought it was the engine compression release not working but after viewing and testing it appears it is more of a starter problem. I replaced the brushes on one and cleaned it up but no noticable difference.
#2
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Posted October 28, 2012 - 09:45 PM
#3
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Posted October 28, 2012 - 09:47 PM
- Bigdaddydon said thank you
#4
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Posted October 28, 2012 - 09:49 PM
- Texas Deere and Horse and Farmlife have said thanks
#5
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Posted October 28, 2012 - 10:18 PM
S/G are a very finicky unit when they work they work awesome i would suggest you replace the bushings and bearings also remove the field windings (if you can) the s/g on my 1254 would generate some times and act like the battery was dead turns out the field winging was shorting out on frameSo I have had nothing but trouble with all my S/Gs. I was viewing some testing on U tube and noticed their starter "freewheeled" when engaged w/o the belt. Mine all do not spin at very high rpms and when i turn the key off they stop immediately. The ones on u tube would spin after key off.
What do you think the problem is? I always thought it was the engine compression release not working but after viewing and testing it appears it is more of a starter problem. I replaced the brushes on one and cleaned it up but no noticable difference.
#6
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Posted October 28, 2012 - 10:36 PM
I posted an article on how to test the functions of a starter generator, do a search for it, it might just help you.
I found the article and it will be a big help but first, my issue is that the starter does not seem to be acting as it should when trying to start the engine. With the belt off should it spin at high rpms and continue spinning when the key is turned off? or should it come to an abrupt stop when the key is turned off?
#7
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Posted October 29, 2012 - 01:03 AM
Why would you remove the field windings?Remove the field windings (if you can) f
#8
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Posted October 29, 2012 - 03:57 AM
#9
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Posted October 29, 2012 - 04:24 AM
#10
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Posted October 29, 2012 - 04:26 AM
#11
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Posted October 29, 2012 - 05:47 AM
#12
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Posted October 29, 2012 - 06:51 AM
With the belt off should it spin at high rpms and continue spinning when the key is turned off? or should it come to an abrupt stop when the key is turned off?
It should continue spinning. As suggested, your bearings are bad. You might want to take it to an automotive/electric shop, and
have it totally rebuilt. Then you'll have a known good working one, that'll be your benchmark, to diagnose the other ones
giving you grief.
#13
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Posted October 29, 2012 - 07:55 AM
How about if you remove the belt and try spinning it by hand ? Maybe you could see if there is a drag ( bearings , rust , dirt ect ) Al
They do not feel like there is any restriction, they spin free and continue spinning for a bit after you give it a spin.
Why would you remove the field windings?
Is there a way to test the field windings while on the S/G?
I have seen where you have to correst the polarity by grounding the A terminal breifly. If the polarity was reversed would that cause it to act like it is. I have tried the method several times but not sure it does everything.
- Alc said thank you
#14
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Posted October 29, 2012 - 09:11 AM
Is there a way to test the field windings while on the S/G?
I have seen where you have to correst the polarity by grounding the A terminal breifly. If the polarity was reversed would that cause it to act like it is. I have tried the method several times but not sure it does everything.
The field windings can be tested without removing them, but I believe they need to be tested once the s/g is opened up. .....The brushes need to be insulated from the armature to prevent false readings. .....The field coils are tested using a continuity tester. ....The field coils should have no significant resistance (continuity) across both leads of the winding. .....There should be no continuity between either coil lead and the case of the s/g (continuity here means the field coil is shorted to ground).
I don't believe you are correctly polarizing the s/g by grounding the Armature terminal of the s/g. ....The generator and regulator are polarized by momentarily connecting the BAT and ARM terminals at the regulator. .....Some people suggest that this isn't necessary as polarization takes place when the starter is operated, but it won't hurt to do it as suggested by some manuals.
The armature can also be tested once it is removed from the case. .....A burnt winding in the armature can cause it to turn slowly.
#15
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Posted October 29, 2012 - 11:03 AM
The field windings can be tested without removing them, but I believe they need to be tested once the s/g is opened up. .....The brushes need to be insulated from the armature to prevent false readings. .....The field coils are tested using a continuity tester. ....The field coils should have no significant resistance (continuity) across both leads of the winding. .....There should be no continuity between either coil lead and the case of the s/g (continuity here means the field coil is shorted to ground).
I don't believe you are correctly polarizing the s/g by grounding the Armature terminal of the s/g. ....The generator and regulator are polarized by momentarily connecting the BAT and ARM terminals at the regulator. .....Some people suggest that this isn't necessary as polarization takes place when the starter is operated, but it won't hurt to do it as suggested by some manuals.
The armature can also be tested once it is removed from the case. .....A burnt winding in the armature can cause it to turn slowly.
mine i removed the ground to the case so i had 2 wires for the start/gen winding and checked the resistance to the field then the one field wire to the case it would read resistance some times and none other times that S/g made me stumped turned out that there was wear on the insulation causing the field to ground out and it would make the engine bog downWhy would you remove the field windings?