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3K views 21 replies 11 participants last post by  ol' stonebreaker 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Okay fellas, here it is on the brink of winter once again, and no doubt some of us are pulling our batteries from machines that are not used in our winter machines....Right?

We will then place them dutifully on our chargers ( be it smart tenders, or one's we should check once in a while) Right?

And then when spring comes, our chargers and batteries will have lives through yet another happy winter, sitting dutifully on the shelf, wainting for yet another year of service.

WEll, if you are like me, I have too many darned machines to pull every battery, but I try to keep them in service. I lose a couple once in a while, but such is life. No doubt, with the cold coming on throughout our country ( and elsewhere ) that there will be an inundation of questions and answers about whether it is the starter, solenoid, or battery at fault for a tractor's no- start condition.

I aim at clarifying what what are the basics of understanding how to diagnose a good vs. bad battery, with simple tools that are readily at hand, and reasonable cost. I hope you all can chime in for my omissions, but feel free to chime in.

Please keep in mind this is a work in progress, but then again, ain't just about everything....
 
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#2 ·
I start with this....

How old is the battery we are dealing with, and if it unknown, has it been gining good service of late?

Are the date stamps actually stamped? Or did Mr . Joe down the block sell it to you , and it was " known to be good the last time he used it "?

Is it charged, and I mean not off the unknow charging system off the motor, but off a charger that plugs into the good old wall outlet ?
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
Aww, 15 min of typing, and "Poof" !

Here it is , the short story-

What is the voltage of yer battery? A multimeter is cheap. An analog meter from a rummage is even cheaper.

That failling, a hydromter is also cheap, often cheaper that a multimeter. I think mine cost me 5 bucks.

Have you load tested the battery? If not, please do so. If one does not own a load tester, many auto shops have one, and some auto parts stores will load test yer battery for free. Mine cost less than 40 bucks , well less than a quality LGT battery and saved moe than that is just running around time.

Once the battery is charged by a smart charger i.e " Battery Tender" , or one you have to look after once in a while , i.e dumb charger with a timer- do the results look the same? Volts Vs Amps?

If all is well, and your battery looks to be within spec for your machine and it still does not start, it is time to look down the line, especially with the cold winds coming along across the country.

Here is my battery corner, Digital MM, though it is only ever set to DCV, a charger or 5, some batterys, and the Schumacher Battery Load tester, a couple of normal Schumacher 6 and 12 V chargers and some other esoteric LiPo chargers, some NiMh stuff for tools,,,, all of it is handy.
 

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#13 ·
AGREE!! I never take my batteries out....never have an issue. And at Walmart for $29 you can buy a marine charger that has a speed load, slow charge, and trickle charge settings on it. After charging for a short time it will also tell you, (by another flashing light) wether the battery is any good and able to accept a charge.......works like a charm...
 
#9 ·
I used to do the start and run thing periodically (no smart charger, just a dumb operator) Got to be a day long event and even worse than that, I was having more carb issues. I've gotten to the point that it's OK to just leave them in there. I haven't disconnected batteries in anything that doesn't have a known mystery drain and been happy. Next spring will be a good test. Several of the batteries will be hitting the three year mark and will let me down if I'm wrong...

I keep watching for a load tester at the flea markets... A VOM only tells half the story.
 
#11 · (Edited by Moderator)
I'd say if your battery was fully charged in the fall when last used and your temps don't fall below 0 degs. you can probably get away with just cleaning the top of the battery and leaving them in the tractor. Here it is not uncommon for the temps to hit close to -30 degs. so I try store mine in warmer conditions. The ones that get left outside will have battery tenders on them to prevent any chance of freeze damage. Nothing like a swollen battery to void the warranty.
Please remember that charging batteries generate hydrogen gas which is explosive. Acid burns are painful and do a lot of damage.
Another note, since starting to use those red and green felt discs on the battery post I have had no problems with corrosion. The only exception was one set that was dried out. I put them on all my batteries.
 
#12 · (Edited by Moderator)
So, Cvans, with all them batteries out in the cold, hooked up to 50 dolllar "battery tenders " what do we do? No way in hell I am hooking a 50 buck tender to each unit...( did ya see the battery corner, and that is with only one GT bttery in the mix, 1 of NINE...) But I digress, this post was was suppsed to be a simple one,,,,,

BTW, I have noticed fewer problems over the years since using the battery terminal spray, and looking forward to using the felt discs....
 
#14 ·
I should try some of the felt discs on the 420...corrosion even with semi-regular use.

I bring batteries I'm not using inside and keep them in the basement. It's below freezing here from Halloween to April with lows of -20 C being normal and -40 C not unusual. Even good batteries can fail in weather like that. I also keep a spare deep-cycle charged up for boosting duty.

For testing it's pretty simple. If a battery won't hold a charge for the time it usually sits, it's trash. If a battery is swollen, it's been frozen and is trash.
 
#15 ·
So, Cvans, with all them batteries out in the cold, hooked up to 50 dolllar "battery tenders "
In your case it would not be reasonable. I on the other hand have less than 10 batteries and only 3 or 4 are outside in the winter.
By the way, Harbor Freight now has the battery tenders on sale for $9.99 through Nov. 30th. So far I have had good luck with these.
 
#18 ·
I just bought a battery maintainer from Walmart for $20.

One note on using a battery load tester, you need to charge the battery first before you test it. Otherwise it will test bad.
 
#19 ·
I don't use those felt disks and don't like that battery terminal spray. If I find corrosion, I remove the cables and dip the ends in water and baking soda. I clean the posts with this mixture also. Dry them off, clean with a worn out old plumbers brush, then smear some wheel bearing grease on everything. Put the cables back on, tighten and smear the grease around on the bolts. I hardly ever have to deal with any corrosion. I only have the vehicles and the lawn tractor but I start that often in the winter as I use it for my transportation around the property. Usually started every couple of weeks, any time of year.
 
#22 ·
As for corrosion on the posts or side terminals, what I've found works good for me is antiseize. I do the same as using grease like Robertp43 described. I make sure there is a good thick coat around the base of the posts in case the batt starts gassing out around the post. This is usually what causes corrosion to begin with. After attaching the clamps I liberally coat them w/ antiseize. It works as good as grease and is conductive.
Mike
 
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