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Rust Oleum Rust Reformer


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#16 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 11:19 PM

I think it was Martin Senour from Napa. I took a picture of the can. I'll have to post pics tomorrow, loading up on ibuprofen and calling it a night.
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#17 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2012 - 06:26 AM

Glad it worked for you. My friend is painting a bicycle frame for a neighbor using Rustoleum spray cans. It looked great, but the second day the magic alligator started to show. Not sure what caused it as the frame was sanded to bare metal except for small areas where parts were welded real close toghether. The crinkle was showing out away from those areas.

#18 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2012 - 07:20 AM

Kenny,

Sorry to hear about your friends misfortune.

I don't think modern day rattle cans are as good as they use to be and I'm not sure why, though I suspect it has something to do with VOC compliance. 30 years ago the paint seemed to dry a lot faster, and when dry, much harder. Wrinkling typically comes from the solvents not flashing off before the next coat is applied. I had similar problems when I repainted the deck on my 316 this spring. Even though I waited 48 hours the solvents had not evaporated to the point I could apply the next coat thus wrinkle city. That is extremely frustrating. Especially when you need/want to get whatever you're painting back in service. The only spray paint that I have had good luck with recently is the Rustoleum Appliance Paint, but the color choices are pretty much limited to white, black, and almond.

#19 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2012 - 07:26 AM

I do know you can't put enamel and laquer together. I just haven't had much experience with the acrylic enamels and what they contain. Same with clear coats. I try to use the same brand if I can get the colors I want.

#20 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2012 - 07:55 AM

For enamels and laquers you can put enamel over laquer, but not the other way around. I think the laquers have a more agressive solvent and will attack the enamel if I remember right. Like you, I don't know where these new acrylics fall into the mix.

Sticking with the same brand is always the safer bet.

Edited by TerryD, October 25, 2012 - 07:56 AM.


#21 Bmerf ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2012 - 05:19 PM

I'm glad it's all working out for you. I bought a can of the spray on rust reformer, but haven't had a chance to try it out yet. Nice to know that other brands of paint work with it. Like others, I have had issues in the past mixing different manufacturers paints. Some spray on without problems, then others will lift the paint days later.

#22 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2012 - 10:01 PM

Pictures as promised.

The top coat is Martin Senour Acrylic Enamel with hardner. I used the HF "purple" spray gun from the $50 two gun set that is pretty popular. Disassemble and clean them well before using. Lots of nasty stuff in mine.

I still need to assemble everything, but here are some before and after pictures.

Not in bad shape, just surface rust and it needed a bath badly! Yes, the throttle rod is laying on top of the motor. The PO had removed it and just ran it wide open.
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I used spray can printer to spot in the rough area's. It dryed for about a week because I didn't have time to work on it, then wet sanded with 400 grit wet/dry.
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I used the bigger of the two guns. The small gun would be good for touchup's or small parts only.
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I added a secondary air filter at the gun because my compressor is on the small side. You can see the paint, reducer and hardner behind the gun. Any yes, there's the my token coffee cup...always close at hand.
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The paint is Chevy Red-Orange, Paint code WA7753. I shot 4 really light coats letting them flash. Then 2 medium coats letting each of those flash off, followed by 2 full wet coats. I had a couple spots fisheye because of oil or grease that I didn't get off, but they are mostly unnoticable.

Hey, she's a working girl. Come on now.
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I just taped off the engine decals, but I ordered new warning decals for the chute and auger housing from Pete at www.gilsonsnowblowers.com, and an OPeI decal from FleaBay. Pete has a ton of info on his website about Gilson Snowblowers. After about 30 days I have some polishing to do on the housing to get rid of the dust that blew under the garage door and then I'll apply the new decals.

The wheels are painted with Rustoleum Appliance paint, Almond. A near perfect match.

This was suppose to be just a "clean, protect, and prevent rust" job until I have more time, but I got a little carried away.

Thanks for following along. :beer:

Terry

Edited by TerryD, October 25, 2012 - 10:03 PM.

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#23 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2012 - 05:30 AM

Looks good from Tulsa! LOL
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#24 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2012 - 05:41 AM

Came out nice Terry :thumbs: I bought a HF touch up gun but havn't tried it yet , hope I do as good a job as you did painting your blower , Al
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#25 marlboro180 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2012 - 09:02 AM

That turned out real nicely Terry. Good call on the filter right before the gun.

:thumbs:
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#26 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2012 - 09:30 AM

The project turned out looking good Terry. Glad you were able to get it all done in a short amount of time.
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#27 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2012 - 11:02 AM

Thanks for the positive feedback. From the serial number and engine code I deduced that it is a 1978 model with a 26" intake. Bigger than what I wanted, but now I'll just have to do the neighbors driveway as well. The highs for the next few days are in the 40's and 50's, not ideal for painting so I'm glad I was able to get the paint on before the front came in.




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