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Petter Ac1 Diesel Into An Allis B1


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#1 mtoney ONLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2012 - 08:35 PM

Here is what I have been working on up till loosing interst and putting it up for sale. Tractor is a 1961 Allis Chalmers B1 with a 32" mower deck and a 30" tiller. Original engine would have been a model 19 Briggs and Stratton 7hp gas. I have a Petter AC1 6.6hp diesel installed in its place. Lost my interest in the project as i like the welding/fabrication ablities to make a new grill assembly and tie it to the frame to support the hood. The diesel sits further forward than the original gas engine so the factory Allis grill wont work. If the frame was slightly extended, with clearance for the axle pivot, then the grill is to far forward for the factory hood. I havent had any luck finding someone to join the project and help it thru to completion. So its up for sale/trade. I hope to have it actualy running under its own power this week yet, waiting on a new injector from the UK, its tied up in the mail somewhere, probably customs. Mike
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#2 mtoney ONLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2012 - 08:42 PM

Anybody nearby wanna help me finish it and rekindle my interest in finishing and keeping this one? The factory hood does clear the engine, but the grill fouls the fuel tank, and front face of crankcase. I need access to the front output shaft for the crank start if my battery is low, no charging ablities on the engine right now, but I did retain the flywheel belt pulley for a future alternator. I have an extenssion made to get the air filter out from under the hood, it fouls the hood in the stock position seen in the pic, it was removed when I put the hood on for the pic. It mounts out near the muffler's current mounted position. I have thought about running the exhaust up thru the hood possibly, but it doesnt look bad the way it is either. I got a bunch of parts for it from a gentleman in the UK, including the variable throttle assembly, fuel tank with self bleeding fuel system, new injector pump, new injector(that I am waiting on), decals, crank start stub shaft for mounting on the camshaft, new crankcase cover and a few small bits, plus all new filters. According to Petter paperwork, this engine is rated for 10K hours between major overhauls, and I have read reports that 20-40K hours isnt unheard of with proper maintance. Very low stress engine to say the least. Engine came from one of those old flashing arrow trailers for road construction zones. I still have the Motorola alternator that came with it, but its a bit large, even if it was side slung below the airfilter/muffler area. Mike

#3 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2012 - 09:29 PM

I thought it was an interesting project when you first wrote about it. The tractor your using does have a short frame. It's too bad you couldn't have found one of the later model Sovereigns with the longer frame. Keep plugging away on it an you'll get it done.

#4 mtoney ONLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2012 - 09:50 PM

The short wheel base is one of the reasons I like it, the other tractors I like are much larger and not as easy to use on my small property. The hood fits nice. Need someone to fab me up a suppport system to bolt it down like a later B10 and a custom grill. IF I can find some near by help, Even if they have to take the tractor to their place for a month or so, Thats fine to. Closer by where I can help and learn is even better. A small alternator would be nice so I can restore the front main crankshaft output for a snowblower. Not much else uses that shaft on an Allis/Simplicity. Mike

#5 Farmlife OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 04:10 AM

I'm sorry you have lost interest. If I was closer I'd deffinatly offer my help just to be able to take a ride on it in the end. Looks like you have done an amazing job so far. Looks very impresive. I hope you can find that interest again and finish it.

#6 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 04:43 AM

Cool looking project.
Welcome to the forum.Glad tyo have you with us.

#7 mtoney ONLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 07:16 AM

I still have some interest, but if I cant finish or get it finished up to look like a tractor again, ie hood and grill, then the interest will be gone. Hoping to find some fabrication help to deal with the cosmetics once I get the engine started. Mike

#8 skunkhome OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 08:12 AM

Would moving the fuel tank into the frame behind he engine help on the front grill?

Edited by skunkhome, October 24, 2012 - 08:13 AM.


#9 mtoney ONLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 08:35 AM

Some, but the face plate on the crankcase stil wont let the grill go where it was from the factory. It also would require a fuel pump to feed the other style fuel filter system. Its gravity fed this way. The other system from the original set up needs a pusher pump to feed the injector pump. With no charging system as it sits now, that is an issue. I think from a reliablity stand point its better to modifiy the grill/hood assembly. Mike

#10 mtoney ONLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 04:58 PM

Got her started today. After a few teething issues, fuel and oil leaks ect. She is now running good. Need to advance the injection timing just a bit. It doesnt like running at full rpm, after about 3/4 throttle it starts acting like its working against itself without any extra exhaust smoke but a real snappy exhaust, Throttle back and its fine. Ran it for an hour with the mower deck engaged, then shut it down, changed the oil and filter, put a plug in the block drain and removed the elbow that was fouling the front axle. Really dont wanna sell it now, need some help asap to deal with the cosmetic issue of lacking a hood and grill. Anybody have a nice small alternator that can be belt driven with CW rotation? I wanna mount it just ahead of the battery. Mike

#11 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 06:40 PM

Mike,
Are you able to make any drawings for brackets that you might need to get the grill back in place? I don't know how many members might be close to you to be able to help in person but if you could do drawings of the pieces you need someone might be able to make the brackets for you.

#12 mtoney ONLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 07:26 PM

My main issue is the exhaust side of the fuel tank, its right inline with the frame and the leading edge of the frame. If I take the factory grill and butt it up against the face of the fuel tank, the chrome uprights stick out about 3/4 to an inch past the edge of the hood surface. I am more thinking an angle iron frame work that mounts to the console, then goes forward over the diesel to bolt the hood to, then extend the frame sides forward about 4 inches or so to mount new uprights to, or make ones that bows outward around the fuel tank, then tucks in under the hood and back inline with the frame under the fuel tank. Then deal with adapting the mesh and sheet metal grill to that. Just a hood over the engine would be a nice start. Wish I had an old bed frame laying around, they are a great source of angle iron. Gonna go visit the gentleman I got the diesel from, he does do some fabricating and see what he can come up with to support the hood. Right now I am working on a cost effective charging system so I can rig up cold weather starting ablitiy, since winter is coming and I need her for snowblade duty. She fired right up when I went to put her away around dusk tonight. Will run her some more tomorrow. Mike

#13 mtoney ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2012 - 06:22 PM

Got the timing down good, waiting on heavier valve springs, ones on it are two weak for over 3000rpm operation, tends to float the valves over that speed. Mowed my yard with her and decided the factory muffler didnt muffle much despite being a nice looking muffler. So I swapped in a muffler for a Gravely with a Kohler engine. Much better, and I will add a chrome top pipe to it with a turnout at the top tomorrow when I can get to the store. I started fitting the hood, I notched the hood to fit around the stock air filter. I didnt like the intake noise with the other set up I had, looks better tucked under the hood anyway. Need to clean up the notch, then start with the grill. I have it in place with some trimming lines drawn with a sharpie marker. Have to make clearance slots for the pivot axle and new bolt holes. Its going to have to have some internal bracing, eitther to the engine or elsewhere to keep the grill upright. The hood will bolt to the grill for now. Wish I could hinge it that way but that wont work. Gonna have to make it bolt on and off like the later B series. The fuel fill is about 4 inches below the hood surface, not sure whether to cut a large enough hole to acces the fuel cap and use a funnel to refuel, or to just deal with removing the hood to refuel. Mike




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