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Hydraulic Lift "switch"


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#16 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2012 - 06:15 PM

I drilled the two holes where it would bolt to the bell housing. I am not able to use my transfer punches, and they where off... by a lot! I welded the holes in, and grinded them flat. I then tried to make a template out of cardboard and I was still off. I welded those in again and grinded those flat. That is when I decided screwing up twice was plenty for one day and came in.

#17 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2012 - 12:39 AM

I had the holes machined! They are a little off, but it was free, it was done in one day, and it will still work perfectly! The same student who made up my wheel plates is the one who machined it for me.
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Here is a backside view with it all the way out. I can move it in a little over an inch.
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I don't see why I wouldn't be able to get the other few holes drilled so I can bolt it to the tractor.

Just a question about this mount. With the pump that far out, would it be good to put a brace from the frame mount area to where the pump bolts on to it? Since you heated and made the bend, the metal there might be fatigued a bit and crack over time. Might be something to talk over with your welding teacher/ buddies. Just hate to see you do all this to have it break down the line. The pump that far out will try to flex it some with the belt tension. Something to think about, Ryan!

#18 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2012 - 05:33 PM

I just got THIS caliper from Harbor Freight. Now I might have a chance of putting the holes in the right spots!

#19 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2012 - 02:47 PM

I got the holes where they needed to go! That caliper put them exactly where they needed to go! After I saw the holes were correct, I cut now cut off the extra piece of steel at the right measurement.
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After that, I put the pump on so I could see if the belt was straight... perfect! It looks like it has a little turn but that is because each link has a certain amount of movement to it, with tension it is straight.
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After I saw everything checked out ok to this point, I put a vertical support as Kenny suggested. I decided to burn two holes into the back of the main part of the bracket and plug weld it on. I don't know what made me want to use this method.
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I will make the handle later today sometime.

#20 countryboy88 ONLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2012 - 09:11 PM

Looks great! :thumbs:

#21 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2012 - 10:47 PM

I got the handle bent, I just made one bend in it and kept it simple. I did case harden the one end like we discussed HERE.
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I took off the manual lift lever and the ratchet part. I put on the hydraulic cylinder and arm to see what I was working with. The line towards the front of the tractor goes over the foot rest.
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I strongly dislike that, I can't shake the feeling that I am going to forget it is there and hit it with my foot and damage something. I want to flip the cylinder over so that the lines are on the bottom of the cylinder. The problem is that the 90 degree fitting is not long enough and the line hits the frame. Does anybody know if these are available in different lengths?
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I also found another problem! The rear mount for the cylinder is slightly different on this tractor then it was on the tractor that the hydraulics came from. With the different position, part of the cylinder hits on the lift arm. It is a little hard to tell in this picture.
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In order to fix this, I have to notch out part of the arm. Also, since I will not be using rear implements I do not need the part that sticks above where the cylinder mounts to it. Because I don't need that length I want to get rid of it. I have not decided if I am going to modify this one, or just make a new one.
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#22 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2012 - 08:21 AM

Surplus Supply has a nice selection of fittings you might be able to use to reroute that line , Al
http://www.surplusce...ic&keyword=HFNN

#23 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2012 - 08:46 AM

I followed the link for the case harden and bookmarked it.
I'm with Al on changing the fittings, I have seen some longer 90's out there.

#24 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2012 - 09:17 AM

I just looked through that site, and I don't think they have them in different lengths. Although they might, there were a lot of them and it is possible I missed something. Really, all I need is an extension to get the 90s another inch lower.

#25 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2012 - 10:01 AM

Ryan, take that fitting out and to your local supplier. Bet they can figure something out.

#26 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2012 - 11:23 AM

Ryan is this what your looking for ?
http://www.surplusce...tname=hydraulic

#27 countryboy88 ONLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2012 - 12:03 PM

Just use galvinized pipe. You should need a 1" long nipple and a coupler, that will drop the elbow down so that it will clear the frame.

#28 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2012 - 02:06 PM

Al, after a newly discovered problem, I don't think that will be long enough.

Rory, I like that idea! If I can't find anything else that will likely be the route I take!

The ratchet gear for the lift was spaced 2 inches out from the frame. The back just had a bolt with a spacer, the front went onto the pivot for the brake pedals. Because of the spacing, the pivot would stick out two inches farther then it would if it was hydraulic lift from the factory.
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I did not want it to stick out so I cut off two inches, and put new threads onto it. It had a lock nut on it, and it was rusted, very tight! I put some heat to it and it moved, it stopped so more heat, again it stopped and I heated it again... this time the nut started to come off of the rod and the threads must have gotten to hot because I twisted the nut on the rod. I am going to need to get another nut to put onto it.
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I ground out the side of the lift arm where the cylinder hit, and it cleared! But now I found a larger problem... the hole is to close to the pivot and the cylinder can't extend all the way! Even the other hole is to close! I am going to have to make another arm with the hole in the general location that I put the chalk mark.
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With the hole in that spot, the cylinder will go up farther, and I will need to extend the elbows out even farther!

When writing this I could not help but think about the problems some of us would go through, just to avoid pulling a lever! But I can't stop now... it has become personal! :bigrofl:

Edited by Ryan313, November 11, 2012 - 02:08 PM.


#29 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2012 - 02:33 PM

Good problem solving, Ryan. If what you have doesn't work, make something that will.

#30 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2012 - 02:44 PM

Ok, I am caught between a rock and a hard place. The manual lift lever has the hole where the cylinder would attach to in the same spot as the '75, so I know it would work. All I would have to do is cut off the top, and be done with it. But, I am not sure if I want to cut something else all up, I am leaning towards cutting it. After all, If I don't it is just going to sit in my shed until I find another use for it, and who knows when that will be. And when I do find a use for it, that may also require modifying it! I would make another, but I don't have the correct size flat stock. And it sounds crazy, but I KNOW we do not have this size material in my welding class. Then if I was able to get the right size, I don't know how long or how many tries it would take to make it!

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