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Leveling a deck on a 212


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#1 brzezinski01 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2010 - 07:55 PM

Has anybody had any problems leveling a 46'' deck on these tractors? it seems that no matter what I do the side with the chute always seems to be about a 1/2" lower. not enough to even notice but, I know it's there and it drives me nuts. :wallbanging:

#2 SandburRanch OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2010 - 12:08 PM

Has anybody had any problems leveling a 46'' deck on these tractors? it seems that no matter what I do the side with the chute always seems to be about a 1/2" lower. not enough to even notice but, I know it's there and it drives me nuts. :wallbanging:

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I can't believe no one has a 212 or one close enough they could discuss deck leveling with you. I don't have a 212 but here is hoping you eventually solve your deck problem. Other than wishing some luck to come your way, all I could do is suggest standard preliminary procedures which you've probably heard plenty of.

#3 brzezinski01 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2010 - 12:47 PM

lol yeah...I just kinda learned to live with it, all I can think of is that something must be bent a little bit to throw it off. Like I said, you don't notice at all but I know it there and it drive me crazy. Thanks anyways though!

#4 SandburRanch OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2010 - 01:14 PM

I would think being off 1/2" it would leave a visible ridge in the lawn each pass. Do you have the leveling procedure from the operator's manual to work from?

#5 brzezinski01 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2010 - 07:18 AM

no I don't, but I spent an entire day adjusting everything that could be adjusted. put it up on a level concrete slab with my torpedo level. it leave a little bit of a ridge but it's not all that bad.

#6 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2010 - 09:19 AM

Don't own a similar tractor, but I would think leveling it would be straight-forward. Can you post pics of the leveling adjusters?

#7 srtbrew OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2010 - 06:59 PM

On my 212 one of the hangers hangs on a threaded rod. I would try that.

#8 lyall ONLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2011 - 01:03 PM

This is what I do to check to see if the blades are level. I raise the deck so that I can put a 2x4 on edge just about to touch the end of the blade and turn the blade to see if the blade is bent. I do this for each blade. Then with two 2x4s one on each side of the blade I turn it again too see what it is doing. If a blade is bent I try to straight it. I also check to see if it level of side to side and front to back. If all blades check level then I check the two out side blades against each other with the 2x4s. If one is higher then I adjust the hanging with the thread rod until both are level. I try to keep the hanger with the threaded rod not on the discharge side each time I put the deck back on. Putting the threaded rod hanger on different side each time the deck will not be level the next time you mow one side will be higher than the other.

If the deck is bent causing the blades not to level the blades, you can try to bent the decking or put washer/s between the deck and the spindle to help level.

Also check the the draft plate to see if it bent. Check the height of the draft plate at the frame connection. If the height is different, check the air in the tires. With the same height at the frame connection, then check the height of the draft plate that connects to the deck. Do not have the deck connected to the draft plate for this check. If the threaded rods on the draft plate are not level or at the same height you can bent one to get it at the same height.

I have had to straight one of my decks and it is a job, I do not have a torch to heat the deck to straight. If I did then I would have to repaint the deck.
  • Meangreen said thank you

#9 Tmo OFFLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2011 - 07:32 AM

Going from memory here. First air up all four tires to get the tractor sitting level (Measure from wheel rim to ground on a level floor). Then with a blade tip pointing to each side level from side to side using the adjustable lift link (one of the hangars is adjustable). Finally, with a blade tip pointing front to back adjust the front draft arms so the front is .25" lower than the rear dimension. This should get you pretty close. To set height position set gauge wheels to the desired height and lift the deck until the wheels just leave the ground to make the tractor carry the weight of the deck. Adjust depth control to maintain this setting. The deck will always return to this height when lowered until the depth control adjustment is changed. Be sure you have the correct tire pressure in each tire and be sure you pull the spark plug wire before doing this adjustment.


#10 Meangreen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2011 - 10:09 PM

set gauge wheels to the desired height and lift the deck until the wheels just leave the ground to make the tractor carry the weight of the deck.


Had a "old timer" tell me that. He said if the gauge wheels carry the deck you have a problem....

#11 middleageddeere OFFLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2011 - 08:23 PM

Really MeanyGreeny, why is that?

I would say two things to you if you try these other good ideas and nothing works...1) You have a problem (could be big or little). 2) If you want a quick fix, measure the difference in grass and adjust the leveler to that, take another pass and see how it looks. Keep adjusting till it seems good. Might not be the right way, but you will get a pretty even cut.

#12 Meangreen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2011 - 05:04 PM

Middleagedeere, his opinion was that on a level yard the gauge wheels were not needed at all and a yard that's not level (like most yards) they helped the deck "float". He ran a big shop and maybe that was his way of getting his customers back in for adjustments. :confuse:

Myself, I'm for whatever works. On my JD212, JD317 and AC416 seems the biggest problem is the front deck blade. With the two wheels on the back to help keep the deck level the front of the decks seem to bounce and leave dips in the grass.




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