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Bought A 1964


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#31 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2012 - 09:34 PM

Get a new plug also. I went round and round with a tractor last year not starting, turned out the "new" 6 month old plug was the culprit all along. Once I changed that, everything was ok.
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#32 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2012 - 05:50 AM

Get a new plug also. I went round and round with a tractor last year not starting, turned out the "new" 6 month old plug was the culprit all along. Once I changed that, everything was ok.


Will do, thanks

#33 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2012 - 07:35 PM

update

I went to my local Napa today and ordered new points, condenser and a new plug. I tried to solder the wire on the old points back together but could not get it to stick. Excited about getting my stuff tomorrow so this evening I took the gas tank off and cleaned it. It was clean inside and rust free but stunk of old gas. I also took the carb off and sprayed it down really good until it was shiny inside. the old gas had kind of because slime against the walls so my verdict is out on this one. The gentleman I bought it from said he had put a newer carb on it and I believe it because little choke lever has a black rubber like cover on it said choke in white letters. It just doesn't look to be from 60s vintage and looks a lot more modern. Originally it had a steel line on it but someone has cut the steel line off about 2 inches from the carb and installed a rubber line back. I ran some gas through it and old gas came out but then cleaned up. Im going to wait on replacing the line because I want to add a sediment bowl that I bet it once had and probably so a full rubber line out of that. I also gapped the armature again today. Gas is in the tank and new plug is installed so it should be a quick few minutes of adding the points and condenser tomorrow and see if she'll fire!

I also pulled the top off of the transmission today expecting rust and worn out bearings and mud like oil since it has been sitting outside for I dont know how long but to my surprise today when I pulled it off it looked absolutely brand new inside. The oil even looks good. I will change it later but I'm not trying to go to crazy in to this project until I'm sure shes gonna run. I really don't see why it shouldn't though. Hopefully I'll have time to fiddle with it tomorrow and will update. The knowledge you guys have is incredible!

#34 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2012 - 07:39 PM

Attached is a pic of the front of the motor without the cover and the inside of the t-92

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#35 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2012 - 07:44 PM

If the carb had slime on it, you can bet the passages have slime in them. May need a good soaking or try the lemon juice boil.

#36 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2012 - 07:50 PM

The slime was mostly around the very outside of the carb. It doesn't have an air cleaner assembly so I need to find one. The choke was closed that goodness so the crude didn't really get in the carb. Inside was surprising clean but I'm expecting to have to rebuild the carb. Time will tell.

#37 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2012 - 08:49 PM

In the picture of the front of the engine with the shroud off, the little black thing with the wire coming off it is your coil. You probably know that but in case you don't. It is extremely important that the portion of the flywheel that moves under the coil is clean and free of rust. It's also very important that the air gap between the coil and flywheel be set right. The coil might actually need replaced, not sure. It looks very rusty and I'm not sure if that would affect it or not. Clean everything up good, make sure the gap is right, put your new points, condenser and plug in and she'll fire right up.
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#38 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2012 - 08:54 PM

Attached is a pic of the front of the motor without the cover and the inside of the t-92


In the picture of the front of the engine with the shroud off, the little black thing on top of the flywheel with the wire coming out of it is your coil. I apologize if you know that but you never know. It's imparitive that the portion of the flywheel that moves under the coil is clean and free of rust. It's also important that the air gap between the flywheel and coil is set correctly. Do those two things, install your new parts and you should have spark. If you don't, the coil could be bad. It doesn't look too good but that doen't always mean anything with these coils.

#39 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2012 - 08:56 PM

Interesting. I was editing my post and it said the post was empty and it all went away. Here the goofy site posted it afterall. Sorry for the duplicate.

#40 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2012 - 09:16 PM

In the picture of the front of the engine with the shroud off, the little black thing on top of the flywheel with the wire coming out of it is your coil. I apologize if you know that but you never know. It's imparitive that the portion of the flywheel that moves under the coil is clean and free of rust. It's also important that the air gap between the flywheel and coil is set correctly. Do those two things, install your new parts and you should have spark. If you don't, the coil could be bad. It doesn't look too good but that doen't always mean anything with these coils.


Yup, I have the flywheel clean and I also took the coil off and cleaned it and cleaned where the coil mounts. Its also properly gapped at .10. The coil does look rough but who knows. I'm fairly positive that the points is the problem because after hooking the points up to a kohler coil, kohler condenser, key switch and battery and still not fire. None! The points was the only thing the 2 systems shared.

#41 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2012 - 08:18 PM

Today I installed a new plug, points and condenser. I pulled the rope and still no spark. By this point I was starting to get a little frustrated until I remembered their was one more thing I hadn't cleaned. I pulled the plug wire off and used my pocket knife to clean the part that connects to the plug. I Finally had spark. Other than that I had cleaned every single thing you could think of but I had no idea that could get that dirty. I splashed a little bit of gas into the carb and she fired and died. This went on for several true until I realized one of the jets was bottomed out. I'm not sure if it was the high or low but it's the one toward the bottom. Pulled it again and it came to life but was a little finicky for a while but she smoothed out and runs amazing now. I came home again just a few minutes ago and she started on the first pull with no choke. I honestly had no idea it would run as easy as it did. I was expecting to have go rebuild the carburetor and do who knows what but I'm very excited to have her running. It sounds absolutely wicked! Only one thing concerns MD. Its sounds like it might have a slight knock or a tick at idle and at certain rpms but it honestly sounds like a squeak like something moving on the tractor. It may just be how the old motor sounds I'm not really sure. I. Going to try to sand this Farmall red off the hood and seat soon. It's never made sense to me why people paint equipment different colors but to each their own I guess!

#42 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 10:25 AM

I noticed this morning that this doesn't have front PTO pulley but just a place to pull start and no deck lift. This thing was truly as economy as a tractor can get. bidding on an air filter assembly and generator on ebay

#43 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 10:33 AM

Not sure what you need for the deck , it looks like you lift is there or are you talking about what's mounted on the deck it's self ? I have an old manual lift if you need parts from that , Al
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#44 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 10:51 AM

That's what I meant. Sorry I didn't clarify. My 77 has a bar inside the frame going from side to side with a piece of metal welded to it that that chain on the deck connects to. My 64 had absolutely nothing st all there. Also the front pulley for starting the tractor isn't grooved to run a belt and its just a stamped piece of steel and not cast. It must've been primary set up for plowing because it has a spring on the lift that works with picking up implements on the back that would've worked against raising the deck. Also it doesn't have the mounts up front for a deck or blade. I never plan on using it to mow or anything anyhow but I didn't know if this was as odd to others as me so thought I'd pass it on

#45 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 11:48 AM

The set up to mount a snow plow would simply be 4 holes in the frame, 2 on each side. The helper spring you have works to either help lift rear implements or front depending on where you hook the spring. I don't exactly remember where to attach the spring as it's been a LONG time since I've had a PK without hydraulics.
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