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Bought A 1964


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#16 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2012 - 09:41 PM

Lol was just joking about re adding the starter if it had one but I think Ur right about it being up front. Just Kohler coil and condenser and battery. I have no idea about how this ignition works. It has something with a bunch of wires above the flywheel. I guess this is a coil or something.

#17 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2012 - 09:42 PM

I'm gonna take some pics tomorrow of my 64 economy with my 77 2414 and 1620 plastic king. Thx for doing the scans BTW!

Edited by farmer, October 19, 2012 - 09:44 PM.


#18 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2012 - 09:46 PM

Lol was just joking about re adding the starter if it had one but I think Ur right about it being up front. Just Kohler coil and condenser and battery. I have no idea about how this ignition works. It has something with a bunch of wires above the flywheel. I guess this is a coil or something.


That is all engine wiring, not tractor wiring; I do not want to give out false information, so I will wait for somebody who knows about Briggs engines more then I do to explain them.

If you do not want to put on an electric start then you do not need a battery. I do not think that a Kohler made coil and condenser would work with this engine. Does the engine run now? Does it have a battery now?

#19 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2012 - 09:54 PM

It does not run now and does not have a battery. According to this http://gardentractor...om/ignition.htm I can use my original points and use a coil and condensor but will need a battery and also a generator to charge.

#20 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2012 - 04:15 AM

Farmer,that's a good looking tractor.

#21 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2012 - 06:35 AM

Can't add a generator without changing the flywheel. It doesn't have the groove for adding one on the flywheel. Rats. Thanks MJ, it had been on craigs for 2 weeks at $450 but I had been to busy to make the 2 hour drive until yesterday. I told him 300 and we were both happy

#22 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2012 - 07:38 AM

Changed the oil this am and it looked cleaned but old. The steering tight as the spindles and steering linkage but the wheel bearings are going to need some attention.

Here's a pic of all my Economy's. I know the fiberglass kings don't get a lot of respect around here but to have as a strictly mowing tractor mine does great with the 60" deck and hydrostatic transmission!

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#23 Bob 537 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2012 - 01:48 PM

welcome. good luck with your tractor
  • farmer said thank you

#24 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2012 - 06:10 PM

OK so today I hooked up a battery an ignition switch then the switch the the + side of the coil. I then ran a wire from the points to the - side of the coil also with a condenser. Everything was bolted down to clean metal in a temporary manor. To my surprise still no spark. Took the points off again and while fiddling around with it a little wire broke off the points. If this wasn't giving a good contact could that be causing no power to the armature and then none to the plug?

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#25 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2012 - 06:35 PM

Points are not that expensive. Just put a new set on and be done with it. The briggs engines seem to be difficult to get spark if they haven't run for a while. I had one that was driving me nuts but here just the lightest cover of rust was on the flywheel. I cleaned it up, made sure the coil air gap was good and it fired right up. I've never owned your particular model of briggs (I believe it to be a 9hp by the way) but if you have the coil that rests right above the flywheel, then I can't stress enough the need to clean and gap that set up. I think you mentioned that you already cleaned it. I have to go back and read it again. Nice looking tractor by the way. You mentioned that it looks old. Well, it is old. That's part of its charm.

Someone (I think it was Ryan) said that a portion of the hood was removed in order to put a starter on it. I agree, I think that's exactly what happened there. That wire hanging down was probably the wire that energized the starter. Too bad about the hood though. If that hood was completely in tact, it's probably worth more than what you paid for the tractor.

Good to have you here.

Edited by David Brown, October 20, 2012 - 06:39 PM.


#26 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2012 - 06:38 PM

I am not sure I understand how you are testing for spark. I don't think you are doing it correctly.
  • pull the spark plug out
  • put the plug wire on
  • set the plug on a good ground surface
  • pull the rope and watch the plug for a spark
Like Jeff said, points are pretty cheap. eBay is actually a good place to get stuff like that cheap.

#27 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2012 - 07:01 PM

I am not sure I understand how you are testing for spark. I don't think you are doing it correctly.

  • pull the spark plug out
  • put the plug wire on
  • set the plug on a good ground surface
  • pull the rope and watch the plug for a spark
Like Jeff said, points are pretty cheap. eBay is actually a good place to get stuff like that cheap.



Yup Ryan, that's how I checked for spark. I even done this while using a spare plug while the correct one was in just to try it different ways. I actually have cleaned the flywheel, armature and points several times and gapped the points and armature. Actually with the automotive style coil and battery I tried today it disconnected the original coil and armature so the only thing that the originial ignition and the one I tried today had in common was the points. I'll order a set of points monday for it as I doubt its a common part on the shelf unless I run to town. I'm so in love with this little tractor, man it sure does have some compression when pull starting that guy!

#28 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2012 - 09:05 PM

If you have that kind of compression, she'll fire once she has spark. Sometimes a plug will show spark when it's out but not under compression. It's enough to drive a person nuts. When you get the chance, take the hood off and post some better detailed pics of the engine. I would like to see a shot with the engine shroud off too if that's possible.

When you order the points, be sure to take all of the numbers from the engine with you. They'll need them. You can probably get the points at Napa as they are pretty good with small engine supply. The place I usually use would probably have them on the shelf.

Edited by David Brown, October 20, 2012 - 09:07 PM.


#29 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2012 - 06:32 PM

Sorry you had to wait; HERE is the manual I promised. I hope it helps!

#30 farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2012 - 07:48 PM

Sorry you had to wait; HERE is the manual I promised. I hope it helps!


Ryan, you rock. Thanks! Going to Napa in the am to order new points and condensor




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