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Need Advice On A Back Blade For My 2414


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#16 moparharn OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 08:44 AM

I will find out tonight when I look at it. I am going to look for front wheel weights for my 2414, any ideas on how to get this done? Is that front bracket that looks like a bumper for hanging weights on? Sorry for my ignorance, but I am a born and raised city boy who is a wanna be farm boy. Bill

picture of my new tractor attached.

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#17 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 09:14 AM

No, you don't want to hang weights on that bumper. At least not too much. Truth be told that bumper doesn't do much of anything. Just look at the PKs you see that are in use and chances are they have a dented hood in the front. Bumper doesn't help that.

#18 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 09:19 AM

Your rear wheels are not set to the most narrow setting. They are set exactly where I keep mine which provides a little more stability but I still don't get my wheels in the unplowed snow too much. I had mine set to the most inward position for a while (see pic) but I always felt like I was going to go over, especially when plowing the garden. That is supposed to be the plow position for the wheels but I don't know, I felt like I was going to get tossed off. I mainly plow the garden with my Satoh anyway.

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#19 moparharn OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 09:27 AM

I looked at my picture and yours and concluded that your wheels have a wider stance than mine. Your wheel center is at the inside of the rim where mine is in the middle of the rim. I could be wrong but I don't think so. The previous owner told me he moved the rims inward to save room in the garage. Keeping my fingers crossed for a what I hope will be a good tractor. Bill

#20 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 09:52 AM

My wheels in the pictures I posted are actually in closer to the tractor than what yours are. The center dish and rim are mounted the same on both of our tractors near as I can tell. My center dish is convex while yours is concave which should actually set yours out a little further. I now have mine mounted on the tractor the same as yours and that moves them out more to clear the chains. I can take an inside measurement to be sure but I think that's what we're looking at. With the wheels like you see in my posted pictures, the tires barely clear the fender supports.

#21 moparharn OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 08:27 PM

Ohhhhh, I see what you are saying. I did not factor in the centers being mounted concave or convex. Mine are concave with the rim mounted on the outer edge and yours is convex mounted on the inner edge of the rim. I think these methods might end up with the same wheel offset. Thanks for educating me. I got the tractor home tonight and I am delighted. I tightened the wheel hub nuts and got the wobble out of the wheels, however I am not sure this is a long term fix. I will wait and see if they stay tight before I tear down and replace the bearings. My exhaust pipe is rusted through at the bottom elbow near the muffler. I don't know if I can weld a new elbow on (doubtful), or if I can buy a new pipe. I saw some pictures of some very nice looking exhaust systems that tucked under the frame and ran backwards towards the rear to keep exhaust away from the operator. Any thoughts on exhaust? Also, the Ford backblade was too big for my tractor. Pin size, spread, and weight were more than I thought I could work around. I think I will go TSC on the back blade. This tractor is going to clean up really well. Most of the paint is original and still there. The decals are original and still all in place. So far, so good. Thanks again for all the help from the board. Bill

#22 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 09:25 PM

That tractor is in pretty good shape!

There are a bunch of different ways you can have your wheels set. Either with the dish in or out, the rim on the inside or outside of the rim, and which way the wheel is flipped and bolted to the dish. If my math is correct (doubtful) then there are 16 ways that you can have your wheels set. Assuming that the most inward positions clear the fenders.

Most 12 inch wheel weights will work on the front. Besides the 25lbs OE weights the most common I see used on the front are IH 25lbs weights. I have a set of the IH weights on two of my power kings and they work just as well as any other weights.

The exhaust on my '75 rusted in the same spot a year ago. I just put a pipe straight down under the frame and clamped a cub muffler onto it. I don't think I have a good picture of it, I will have to take one for you.

#23 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2012 - 06:56 PM

I forgot to take a picture of my exhaust for you. I just posted this picture in another thread and noticed that it showed it quite well.

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#24 moparharn OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2012 - 07:18 PM

Thanks. Did you use black pipe from the head to the muffler? I wonder if I can make the bends with black pipe or if I have to use whats left of my original pipe and tie into it. Totally struck out at TSC today. They did not have a single Cat 0 item in their store. No draw bar, back blade, anything. I will call some GT dealers tomorrow and see what I can scare up. I disconnected my rear lights and now my ignition fuse does not blow when I turn on the lights and the front headlights work fine. There must be a wire going to ground in the rear lighting somewhere. It is strange that the 20v ignition fuse blows before the 15V fuse does on the rear power feed? For now I have front lights and a good running motor. :) Bill

#25 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2012 - 07:31 PM

Check out the pics I posted in this thread again and you'll see the exhaust I'm using. Cub Cadet muffler with black pipe the whole way. Gonna do the same with my FEL tractor. It's a fairly quiet muffler. I already have the one for the FEL. I just have to get some pipe to complete the project.

#26 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2012 - 02:55 PM

Those Ford 8n style mufflers with the pipe and 90* bend in front work pretty good on PK's. Use pipe and elbows out of engine to go straight down and then tin pipe from system slips over that and clamps. Can make hangers for under the frame, keep it over to one side and watch the rockshafts for movement. Have even seen same put Right under frame rail and hung from it. That keeps it kinda low tho, might be an issue. How about a stack like my avatar has? Think AC or Cub muff with a rain flap. Use pipe again to get it started.

#27 moparharn OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2012 - 08:11 AM

Thanks for the ideas. I have a stack muffler with flapper and a custom stack muffler left over from my Simplicity 700. The problem I had with the stack was that it put the exhaust in my face more and also tended to unscrew the black pipe. For now I will use a screw on I have left over. I like that cub cadet muffler routed forward, but I imagine they get a pretty penny for one of those. I am almost done with my pre season preparations ,just need to sand and paint my snow plow and make some bushings for the Cat 1 to Cat 0 conversion of my back blade pins. I power washed off a small piece of my dash sticker yesterday and I can't find it in the garden, really pissed me off. My rear weights come this week (Ebay), and I hope to plow without chains but realize that this is not likely to be successful. I do the snow for parents who are in their eighties, and my father has this look on his face in the spring when he finds the chain marks on his nice black sealed driveway that takes me back to 9th grade. I could get my fat butt off the tractor and use the snowblower, but what fun is that? Bill

#28 countryboy88 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2012 - 08:16 PM

You might be interested in this? http://www.weaversin...tire_chains.htm

#29 moparharn OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 08:43 PM

Those look pretty interesting, but I am spending too much money as it is and I will just have to put on my chains if it comes to it. I have installed my new back blade and it came out pretty darn nice. My snow plow is almost painted, and my new wheel weights should be here in a week or so. One of my 3 point arm adjusters has its nuts welded in place so that there is no adjustment on the right side of the tractor. Are both turnbuckles supposed to adjust, or is it common to lock one up? Thaks, Bill

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#30 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 09:53 PM

I like the blade and I believe you will too. Looks good on that tractor. Both sides of the three point should be adjustable. That's the way they were made. They don't HAVE to be but it does give you some more flexability.




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